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Want to add refrigerant to my A/C system, but system pressure is too low to engage compressor to cycle on? I read if compressor cycles off, you can pull the low-pressure cycling switch plug and attach a jumper wire. This will keep the compressor running. If so where is this switch and please explain the jumper wire process to keep the comp. running? If not what is your method to get the compressor running?Vehicle is 1998-Chrysler-Sebring-Convertible w/2.5 engine. Thanks for taking your time to help.New joining! Jim
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you’ll need to jump the A/C compressor relay. Pull the relay out of the fuse box. Then using a paper clip, jump terminals 30 and 87. You’ll now hear the ‘clunk’ of the compressor clutch engaging. Your compressor will now be forced to run until such point as you remove the paper clip and/or the system pressure switch resumes control of clutch engagement, which is usually above 25 or 30psi on the low side.
DO NOT USE THE JUMP METHOD ABOVE YOU MUST REMOVE THE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM FIRST by putting the system in a state of vacuum then let the vacuum pull the refrigerant into the system. The How To Forum on page 5 or 6 has a wealth of A/C info you should read. I would replace all the seals and O-rings and both Schrader valves though before I pulled the vacuum otherwise you’re just going to waste the refrigerant because you have an open system due to a leak somewhere. Really need to know more info. If you can email or text me a land line number and a good time to call I can call you and explain with more detail. My contact info is below in my signature.
[quote=”jimmyae33″ post=55015]Want to add refrigerant to my A/C system, but system pressure is too low to engage compressor to cycle on? I read if compressor cycles off, you can pull the low-pressure cycling switch plug and attach a jumper wire. This will keep the compressor running. If so where is this switch and please explain the jumper wire process to keep the comp. running? If not what is your method to get the compressor running?Vehicle is 1998-Chrysler-Sebring-Convertible w/2.5 engine. Thanks for taking your time to help.New joining! Jim[/quote]
Is the system flat out of charge or is there a refrigerant
in the system. Your best bet is to pull a vacuum with a vacuum
pump. see if it holds a vacuum.Then weigh in the proper charge.Thanks much for answering. Do I Pull the relay and install the paper clip while the car is running?
Thanks, JimHello, Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
I can be reach on a land line 4/1 after 5pm. @ 561-429-9002 and my cell is 561-523-5227.
I have questions as to the info. you left.
Thanks again, JimHey Wrench Turner,
Thanks for taking the time to get me the Info.It worked great,but my system only held the charge and stayed cool for a week. I just bought this car and noticed the previous owner put tape around the High port schrader valve. I saw a video online where they replaced each schader valve in less than two minutes each without de-pressuring the a/c system and I cant find that tool any where? do U know what its called or can be found? Thanks for your help.
JimmyI know the tool you are speaking of.. and I love that tool. 🙂 Best thing for a/c work. 🙂
These are special tools that allow you to change a shrader valve without having to depressurize the system. This is what my instructor used in my A/C class: http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/MTC-58490.html
Here seems to be a cheaper version: http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/MTC-81490.html
Now, back to your problem:
but my system only held the charge and stayed cool for a week.
So… you don’t need ‘special’ tools to remove the schrader valve since your system is no longer under pressure. So, you can use whatever you want to remove the schrader valve, like needle nose pliers or a tire valve stem remover for example.
Of course, pop the valve for a split second to ensure that there is no pressure (make sure you are wearing your safety glasses so you don’t freeze an eyeball) Or, use the environmentally safe method and hook up a manifold gauge set.
Now… all this work is under your assumption that the only leak in your entire a/c system is allegedly coming from your schrader valve.
Q: do you see green u/v dye around the taped schrader valve?
Q: do you see green u/v dye anywhere else on and around the a/c system?
Q: more specifically, can your system achieve -30hg” within 30 minutes, and hold that vacuum for 30 minutes with no more than 3lbs drop in pressure? if so, then your system is ready for some good old fashioned R134A.
Wanted to thank you for taking your time to send me that info. it’s a great hhelp. While my A/C system isn’t pressureized I was going to replace both schrader valves even though the High port has the major leak. The dealership wants $26 for the high port and $19 for the low port which is just a valve stem.The high port looks different as if its a head cap your replacing? DEARLER DIDN’T KNOW DO U? or is it a valve just like the low side? Car is a 98 chrysler/sebring/conv. Thanks, Jimmy
the high pressure valve is larger than the low pressure valve. you could just go into autozone and ask for schrader valves. sometimes they have a pack of R134A valves (advertised as a R12 converstion kit) on their A/C display in the middle of the floor when you first walk in. But, if they don’t have their display up, they got a stash behind the counter. With some exceptions, this high side schrader valve will be larger than the low side valve. Take them out and show them to a highly qualified parts professional to get the right size.
The high port looks different as if its a head cap your replacing? DEARLER DIDN’T KNOW DO U? or is it a valve just like the low side?
You could replace the entire port, just the schrader valves, or both for either the high side or low side. It is your option.
I found and replaced both.On the package it said to evacuate system then charge. What do they mean? Thanks again, Jimmy
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