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Hi! I’m fairly new to joining this forum but I’ve read a lot of discussions already for my idling problem but still haven’t been able to figure it out..
My Gallant 99, manual 4 cylinders, has been idling roughly since I got it 2 years ago. Actually, when I got this car it was quite a fixer-up state and I have worked on the problems since here’s the run down of things I’ve changed and the problems why I changed them. All changes done in about 2 months prior to today.
AC was not cooling as what it was supposed to but is now solved
- changed to new compressor
- change dryer filter
- change expansion valve
- change timing belts
Hard starting after driving for a while
- change starter carbons
- change solenoid
- fixed wirings on the battery (turns out this was the problem wiring was not properly set in so the battery wasn’t charging properly causing it to discharge every drive)
Always running out of coolant
- Change radiator
- Change bypass tube and water inlet (turns out they were rusted and the pipes had holes)
Always running out of steering wheel fluid
- change sensor (there was a crack)
- replaced the silicon and O-ring (turns out there was a leak due to the O-ring being cooked already)
Rough Idling when AC is on, goes down to 700rpm intermittently
- Cleaned throttle body
- Change Idle Control Valve (ICV)
- what to do?
The remaining problem now is the rough idling. I noticed that when the fan kicks in (guessing the compressor too) my idling goes down to 700rpm which makes the engine shake and it’s quite uncomfortable.
I’m suspecting this to be my alternator since sometimes when I start the engine there’s a small squeak even though I already changed the belts. The squeak immediately stops once all the bearing have ran. I ran a check for the battery and charging and it’s rated at 13.5 when engine is running and 12v when off. Would the alternator be the possible cause?I was hoping someone could give me points to look at or if what I am suspecting might be the actually cause.
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You state you changed the ICV..
Is their a relearn procedure that is required?? this could be the cause of your idle condition.As to the squeak…
A good battery should be showing ~12.6V at rest.
You should consider getting it load tested.
A weak battery at start up will cause a high load on the alternator which could be the cause of your squeak.
Another thing is to make sure you have proper tension on the belt.[quote=”nightflyr” post=172910]You state you changed the ICV..
Is their a relearn procedure that is required?? this could be the cause of your idle condition.As to the squeak…
A good battery should be showing ~12.6V at rest.
You should consider getting it load tested.
A weak battery at start up will cause a high load on the alternator which could be the cause of your squeak.
Another thing is to make sure you have proper tension on the belt.[/quote]Hi nightflyr! Thanks for the reply.
I went to a shop today and had load test done.
At normal load I’m getting 14v and when the issue I’m having kicks in it reads at 13v.
Issue being that when the engine fan starts my RPM falls to 700.
Guess this rules out the alternator..I noticed that both fans turns on at the same time when the the issue happens.. by my understanding on how the fans works is that the aux will only kick in when engine is going above the operating temp, right? The fans always turns on and off together… should i look into this?
You’ll need to look at a wiring diagram for your car.
As you say both fans come on at the same time..
Is this the cause or a symptom?
“Normal” load output is 14V, but when the fans come on you drop to 13V
Appears you have a excessive amp draw when both fans engage and the charging system is having issue keeping up with the demand.
You do not say if the voltage output changes when the engine speed is increased.
That would be helpful.
Your car being equipped with AC, one fan is (or should be) strictly for radiator cooling.
The second is designed to ( or should be ) to come on when the AC is switched on.Knowing that both fans start at the same time gives you some direction to work towards.
A few things to look at:
Is your AC always on? (if so why?)
Is your compressor always engaged? (if so why?)
Is there a possible short in the fan wiring?
Is there a possible faulty fan relay?
Is one or possibly both fans faulty?
Is there a bad sensor causing the second fan to come on?
Again a wiring diagram for your car with help you trace the circuit and components with in it.[quote=”nightflyr” post=173003]You’ll need to look at a wiring diagram for your car.
As you say both fans come on at the same time..
Is this the cause or a symptom?
“Normal” load output is 14V, but when the fans come on you drop to 13V
Appears you have a excessive amp draw when both fans engage and the charging system is having issue keeping up with the demand.
You do not say if the voltage output changes when the engine speed is increased.
That would be helpful.
Your car being equipped with AC, one fan is (or should be) strictly for radiator cooling.
The second is designed to ( or should be ) to come on when the AC is switched on.Knowing that both fans start at the same time gives you some direction to work towards.
A few things to look at:
Is your AC always on? (if so why?)
Is your compressor always engaged? (if so why?)
Is there a possible short in the fan wiring?
Is there a possible faulty fan relay?
Is one or possibly both fans faulty?
Is there a bad sensor causing the second fan to come on?
Again a wiring diagram for your car with help you trace the circuit and components with in it.[/quote]Kinda hot out here so i always have the AC on when I’m driving.
I’ve tried removing the fan connection and turned on the car an ac and the problem still persist so at this point im ruling out the fans.Ruling out the fan load, I noticed that the issue happens when the compressor engages so im suspecting the load from the compressor is at fault.
As i mentioned the compressor is brand new so im not suspecting that it’s going bad.. what other aspect could i check on? Alternator or maybe the timing chains of the engine? Really appreciate your help on this one!
nightflyr,
I did some extensive searching and found out my gallant has a timing belt rather than a timing chain. (I’m smacking my head on a wall now) I was under the assumption that I had a chain all along. The engine doesn’t sound that optimal after I heard how the stock engine for my car should sound. I’m having this check by the weekend ad for now I’ll avoid using the car. I guess the old owner wasn’t keen on keeping things maintained.In anycase I would like to ask if this could possibly affect the ability of the engine to take on the load of the compressor?
Kinda hot out here so i always have the AC on when I’m driving
I’ve tried removing the fan connection and turned on the car an ac and the problem still persist so at this point im ruling out the fans.
Ruling out the fan load, I noticed that the issue happens when the compressor engages so im suspecting the load from the compressor is at fault.
As i mentioned the compressor is brand new so im not suspecting that it’s going bad.. what other aspect could i check on? Alternator or maybe the timing chains of the engine? Really appreciate your help on this one!Your issue appears to be somewhere in the AC system.
When you replaced the components did you pump the system down?
Did you add the correct amount of oil and Freon to the system with a manifold set?The idle should correct itself ( via the ICV ) when the AC is switched on.
So that begins to lead me to believe one of the following :
Your ICV needs a relearn procedure. (possibly causing your low idle)
A possible faulty compressor ( possibly putting an excessive load on the engine )
Freon and oil are not to spec. ( possibly causing the AC not to function properly )Just a thought, try removing the AC drive belt then start the car and switch the AC on and see what happens.
If the engine runs normally, that shows that the issue may well be in the AC mechanical.[quote=”mkymnzns” post=173022]nightflyr,
I did some extensive searching and found out my gallant has a timing belt rather than a timing chain. (I’m smacking my head on a wall now) I was under the assumption that I had a chain all along. The engine doesn’t sound that optimal after I heard how the stock engine for my car should sound. I’m having this check by the weekend ad for now I’ll avoid using the car. I guess the old owner wasn’t keen on keeping things maintained.In anycase I would like to ask if this could possibly affect the ability of the engine to take on the load of the compressor?[/quote]
Timing belts are a funny thing …
In many cases when they fail, they break and the engine does not run at all.
If they happen to slip by a tooth or two (which can happen but is not as common) the engine will run poorly across the board no matter if the AC is on or not.Prior to your AC repair work, did the motor have the same issue?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=173025][quote=”mkymnzns” post=173022]nightflyr,
I did some extensive searching and found out my gallant has a timing belt rather than a timing chain. (I’m smacking my head on a wall now) I was under the assumption that I had a chain all along. The engine doesn’t sound that optimal after I heard how the stock engine for my car should sound. I’m having this check by the weekend ad for now I’ll avoid using the car. I guess the old owner wasn’t keen on keeping things maintained.In anycase I would like to ask if this could possibly affect the ability of the engine to take on the load of the compressor?[/quote]
Timing belts are a funny thing …
In many cases when they fail, they break and the engine does not run at all.
If they happen to slip by a tooth or two (which can happen but is not as common) the engine will run poorly across the board no matter if the AC is on or not.Prior to your AC repair work, did the motor have the same issue?[/quote]
Yup it did but I figured it was because of the ICV so i pegged it to be repaired last. having the ICV changes with a brand new Mikuni (same as the original) it didn’t fix the issue so now I’m suspecting the engine is at fault… I brought the car to a computer box repair center since I was suspecting the ECU but they wouldn’t take it since they can’t pegged the issue to it. No check light whatsoever…
well I’ll be taking the car to my mechanic this weekend to get the timing belt changed. I guess it’s about time anyway, will report back if this fixes my issue. 🙂
The same signal that tells your AC clutch on the compressor to engage tells the ECU to up the idle speed to compensate for the additional load. If you do pull the belt off the compressor and turn the dash AC switch on the dash on your idle speed should increase some over baseline. If it doesn’t I would look at a clogged or dead IAC valve, or bad wiring to it.
[quote=”Johnny Stang” post=173189]The same signal that tells your AC clutch on the compressor to engage tells the ECU to up the idle speed to compensate for the additional load. If you do pull the belt off the compressor and turn the dash AC switch on the dash on your idle speed should increase some over baseline. If it doesn’t I would look at a clogged or dead IAC valve, or bad wiring to it.[/quote]
I’ve replaced the IAC with a brand new one but as for the wiring I haven’t checked on this. Thanks for the tip! I’ll have it checked along with my replacement of the timing belt.
Hi I brought the car for timing belt change and re-calibration of the pulleys. Changed all the tensioners also but still no avail…
I’ve also rechecked all the vacuum lines and fitted everything with a screw clamp just to make sure.At this point I think I’ve ruled out any issues with the engine… could lack of electricity or issues with the wiring or sensors cause the inability of the idle control valve take the load of the compressor? The rpm really goes down when the compressor engages…
PLEASE ANYONE I’m desperate already 😳
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