- This topic has 0 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 8 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
I had a fuse block out of a 98 SL1 that was shorting internally due to corrosion. The headlight fuse was blown for the driver’s side headlights, but they were still getting about four volts to them. Luckily, the fuse block was just behind the driver’s side headlights so there wasn’t much wiring to chase after. But I got up to the bottom of the fuse block and it was the fuse block itself that looked pretty crusty. Pulling the bulk connectors showed the corrosion went into the core of the fuse grid.
I was in a push comes to shove situation and had to try and salvage the block anyway. So I opened the block, pulled the core fuse grid out and dunked it in a baking soda/water mix for about ten minutes. Then the block got thoroughly dried out with compressed air and I was indeed able to restore normal operation. This may or may not work for a lot of other blocks. This Saturn block was just forgiving enough in it’s build that I could get away with it.
If you’re in the same situation, just make sure you take pictures or otherwise document the fuse and relay locations. You will need to pull all the fuses and relays out of the top of the block as part of the disassembly. I don’t have a specific ratio for mixing the baking soda and the water. The repair was improvised and I had to use a five gallon bucket. I just poured enough baking soda into the water to make sure it looked good and cloudy. Rinse the block out in clean water and then THOROUGHLY dry out the block. Spend some extra time on this step and work the nooks & crannies. Remember that neglecting this step might set up a chance to fry any and every circuit possible and I’m not accepting any liability for that. If you try this for fuse blocks for other makes or models, do so at your own risk and use some common sense along the way.
Good luck.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.