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I have a 97 Acura RL that won’t start. Attached is a picture of the fuel pump circuit. I have two questions about this circuit.
1 What is the purpose of the Fuel pump resistor in this circuit? It seems that when the relay is activated the closed contact shorts out the resistor.
2 The Red/Wht wire goes to the under dash fuse 22 (20 amp). Where does the Yel wire designated #14 on the schematic go to?
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See if this help (hope link works)
http://www.acuraworld.com/forums/f40/changing-main-relay-rl-diy-72813/
Does your new main relay look like is?
[quote=”DON13″ post=68101]One more question. Do you know if the fuel pump cuts itself off when it reaches its operating fuel pressure even if the driving voltage is still applied through the fuel pump relay?[/quote]
Don’t think so.
If engine is running, fuel pump is running.
Excess fuel pressure is regulated/bypass in gas tank (?).[quote=”rubflor” post=68124][quote=”DON13″ post=68101]One more question. Do you know if the fuel pump cuts itself off when it reaches its operating fuel pressure even if the driving voltage is still applied through the fuel pump relay?[/quote]
Don’t think so.
If engine is running, fuel pump is running.
Excess fuel pressure is regulated/bypass in gas tank (?).[/quote]Are you still thinking of by-passing the contact of main relay and apply 12vdc to pin 3
of fuel pump relay.IF so, yes its should work but is it safe.
You are only applying 12vdc to the input side of contact, coil ground of fuel pump relay is control
by PCM.I would not by-pass any relay, contact, nor coil. Not safe!
Robflor, thanks for your help. I think I have found the main relay under the dash. There is a picture of the main relay in the link that you sent me. Looking at that picture, I was able to get the left connector off the black box fairly easily. I have tried every which way from Sunday to release the right connector but it will not come off. Of course you have to be a plastic man to get to it. It looks like it has a push tab on the top of the connector, and where the wires come out of the connector, there is a long tab the length of the connector that clicks when I squeeze it, but the connector will not come off. I tried to squeeze both tabs at the same time and ply it off with a screw driver, but no luck. I DO NOT WANT TO BREAK THE CONNECTOR. Do you know how to take this connector off?
here is another video to help.I believe you push the tab
in and pull. you may need a small pocket screw driver.Your connector may have been overheated and is now welded togethere.
Try removing main relay from mounting braket and get both your hands on it.
Best of luck.
Again thanks for your comments. The connector on the right side of the Main Relay looks good. I can wiggle it and it appears to be loose from the main relay box and it does not appear to be wielded to the relay box, but I cannot get it to release. The connector has a small tab on the top of the connector. On other connectors, I can get the connector to release by pressing this tab, and using a screw driver, I can pry the connector off. I have tried this to no avail.
The connector also has a prolong plastic extension that surrounds the conductors coming out of the connector. Inside of this plastic protective extension, there is a plastic tab. When I press this plastic tab it makes a clicking sound. I am not sure if this tab has to be squeeze at the same time as the smaller tab on top in order to release the connector form the main relay box. These tabs are on opposite sides of the connector and are hard to depress at the same time because of the limited space to work in. I have tried to press them at the same time but the connector does not release. I will continue in the next reply.
Your other suggestion to remove the main relay from its bracket is a good one, but the wiring harness does not have enough slack to do it with the connector attached to the relay box. To make matters worst I cannot get a screw driver between the main relay box and the bracket in order to get the bracket over the tab on top of the relay box so that I can remove it. Eric talks about this in one of his videos. In that video he said he just removes the inside part of the relay and left the box in place. I cannot do this either because of the lack of slack in the wiring harness. So for the lack of being able to disconnect the connector I am in a dilemma.
So my main problem is how to remove the connector on the right side of the main relay.
DON13, still having problems with that connector?
If so, first I would verify if main relay is defective.
With key in and in the start/crank position.
Check input pin 3 (blue/red wire) for 12vdc.
Check input pin 5 (red/white wire) for 12vdc
Check output pin 2A (yellow wire) for 12vdc
IF all checks are good: main relay is good; DO NOT REPLACE.If main relay is defective, disconnect battery and break apart main relay.
Take care not to damage the connector.IF connector is damage, go to a local junk/auto yard and try to locate a replacement connector.
You now have two options.
You can cut damage connector off and resolder replacement connector to wiring harness.
Or you can remove wires with pins from damage connector and reinstall in replacement connector.Good luck
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