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ive posted about this before my jeep wrangler has been randomly stalling upon start up it will start then it will begin to die and 100% of the time if i catch it before the RPMs drop to low to can feather the throttle and bring the RPMs up to about 2500 then i can release the throttle and it will idle and run just fine but when i dont catch it, it will die then it wont start up again for about 10 mins
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Quoted From dreamer2355:
You need to use a pressure gage when testing for fuel pressure.
+100. Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? I forgot to look at your original post.
YES. If the coolant temp sensor is bad, and it makes the PCM think the engine is always cold, then it will dump too much gas into the system, and cause your stalling issue. Have you also noticed a decrease in fuel mileage?
as far as MPG it stays at 14, but also i noticed in the cold weather the temp gauge will go to about 230 and stay there a few seconds then in about 3 seconds it will drop to about 180, would that have anything to do with this?
Yeh, i suppose if the coolant temp sensor was stuck on the high end of the scale, it could be giving you a lean condition. You’ve never gotten a check engine light out of this truck? But again, I’m now very suspicious of this sensor, and it’s easy to replace.
Before you pull the ECTS, you might want to check it with an ohmmeter. It should read several kOhms cold, down to a few 100’s of ohms (or less) hot. You should be able to unplug the wiring to the sensor to do this test – the sensor doesn’t need power to work.
Chiltons or Haynes should have a chart of temperature versus ohms specific to your Wrangler.
Testing the sensor before you rip it out could save you some time and $$
just my 2 cents
You can test the ECT sensor.
The PCM probably wont set a codecause it thinks it doing it’s job, If you have a scanner/code reader that can read live data you can see
what the ECT temp reading is, If it’s still reading pretty cold even after having it running for 30-45min then it is most likely bad.yes i replaced the fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and crank position sensor, and tomorrow im replacing the IACV
i did do a fuel pressure test today, and at idle it stayed at 47 psi, and when i just turned the key to “on” the pressure spiked up to 47 and stayed there after the key was off
Ok, if that’s within the specs, then cool. The IACV could be the problem, because you’ve replaced most everything else. You could try having a friend start the car and tapping on the IACV with the handle of the screwdriver to see if this alters the idle and helps it run to at least do a little diagnostics, but if you are determined to replace it, I hope it fixes your issue. Good luck bud.
well i have tapped on every sensor i can find under the hood with a screw driver and nothing changes and if it helps ill add this on too the symptoms the problem is getting progressivly worse in the early stages i could give it gas and rev it back to life but now it starts and just dies ONLY after its brought to temp but it will only die after its drove about 4 miles then you can shut it off and if you try to start it 1- 5 mins after it sits it starts no problem but after it sits 10-15 it stalls and wont start back up again for another 20-30 BUT if you drive it then come home and shut it off and dont touch it for about an hour it starts no problem
Now that’s interesting info. First off, the Idle Air Control Valve isn’t a sensor, it’s a solenoid controlled valve on the side of your throttle body. In your particular case, now that you have brought us this info, I would look at your ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. I could explain how it works, but you seem to like to replace parts. That one is probably pretty cheap.
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