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Hi Everyone,
…third time (attempting to post) has to be a charm! I’ll try leaving the photos off this time.
Been preparing to replace my fuel filter on my 1997 Saturn SC2 but there is a little bit of confusion with the procedure I am planning to use. Maybe someone can clarify a few things for me?
2b. Instruction (in words): Remove fuel pump relay from the relay panel at the center console. Photo instruction: Fuse is a 10 amp…Which gets removed-the fuse or the relay?
3. Remove intake duct (hose that runs from valve cover to air tube?)
8. lubricate both filter fittings with clean engine oil or spray lubricant. Is it necessary to lubricate these fittings (quick disconnect fittings, I am assuming)? Why?Thanks.
RE pics-i guess my resolution was too high? (Filter center)
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Removing either the relay or fuse would work, but remember to crank to relieve pressure (I would pull the fuse). Not sure about the intake duct, it must be in the way. Regarding the oil, there are plastic bushings that need to slide, they are less likely to be damaged as they slide if lubricant is added. I don’t usually do that but if your dealership instructions say to do so then it’s a good idea. Finally, don’t forget to check your work after you are done! After finished, turn the key to run a few times to power up the fuel pump, then have a careful look underneath for a couple of minutes, to be sure it’s not leaking.
Thank you for your suggestions.
Here is my entire procedure that I originally tried to post but was unsuccessful (probably because of the high resolution) pics I tried to include.
1991-1997 SC2 DOHC
1) Obtain new fuel filter and hose assembly.
2) Relieve fuel pressure by:
a. Removing the fuel cap.
b. Instruction (in words): Remove fuel pump relay from the relay panel at the center console. Photo instruction: Fuse is a 10 amp that appears to be located at the passenger side. Which gets removed-the fuse or the relay?
c. Start engine and wait for stall, then turn off ignition. May set trouble code.
d. Position a screwdriver (small) into fuel pressure test port (Schrader valve on the fuel rail) and depress valve to allow any excess fuel to drain out (catch with shop towels). System is depressurized.
3) Remove intake duct (aka Fresh air intake line? Hose that runs from valve cover to air tube?) from the air cleaner assembly for easier access to the fuel hose connection.
4) Using the plastic tool provided with the filter, disconnect the filter hose fitting at the fuel rail.
5) Raise the vehicle safely and support it on jack stands.
6) Under the vehicle, while wearing safety glasses, grasp the fuel line at the filter and turn ¼ turn in each direction to loosen any dirt. Use carb cleaner to wash away any dirt around fitting (to avoid contaminating fitting and/or fuel).
7) Squeeze tabs on fitting, disconnect the fuel line from the filter, then remove the nuts and detach filter and bracket.
8 ) Push new disconnect fitting onto the new filter and and lubricate both filter fittings with clean engine oil or spray lubricant. Is it necessary to lubricate these fittings (quick disconnect fittings, I am assuming)? Why?
9) Place the new filter in position and install the bracket nuts. Push the quick disconnect fitting onto the filter and fuel line, making sure they snap securely into place.
10) Watch for leaks. If no leaks after a few minutes, proceed. Cycle key once to prime the filter. Repeat entire step 10.
11) Lower vehicle. Test drive. Check for leaks.[quote=”college man” post=92111]pull the fuel pump fuse. crank the car to relieve the fuel pressure.
Then change the fuel filter.[/quote]This about covers it. There may be some stuff in the way that you need to remove. Some filters are harder to replace than others because of this. Penetrating on the fittings before you break them loose is also a good suggestion.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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