Fuel boil pre detonation really need help on this

[OnThe7ThDayFord]

1999 Honda crv – 2 wheel drive automatic- 389k.
No smoke.
No oil mixing.
Wierd loss of power.

So i bought this rig for lil to nothing…. iv managed to put 400 miles on the vehicle with lil issue…. iv had it about 2 weaks. A buddy went with me and helped check it out with me (I think he missed some stuff)
I did have this issue but its fixxed now…..http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/60768-99-honda-crv-no-fire#151272

Anyway i got the car running today but a issue soon devolved….. Ill note that this has occurred a few times before but never put it together…… Today the car started bogging out and running like crap until it stalled and would not restart……..
The temp gauge has never read hot….
Anyway it started acting out so i grabbed my snap on reader and started doing a live reading….. i found no issues….. other then- temp being at 217….. i drove it a bit and it climbed to 224…. at such point it stalled and would not refire (would try) the temp gauge showed normal…..

At this point i walked away for a bit…. 4 hours….. came back and its fired right up (perfect)……. ran for maybe 5 mins if that… got in it to go for a ride and it instantly started acting up again… live data showed 222….

So at this point idk wtf to think……
Heres what i know for fact…..

There is no thermostat installed…
Straight water in engine…
New radiator.
New radiator cap.
Fans are working.
Both up and lower hoses are equal temps…

Im gonna put some anti freeze in it tomorrow ( i know anti frewze doesnt change the running temp) but it does raise boiling point and lower freezing point…… my theory is that once the vehicle reaches 212 (212 water boiling point) when it hits 212 its game over it can cool bc the water is boiling……..

However…….. 2 concerns – with no thermostat the water should fallow freely (helping cool)(over cool)….. and Iv had v8 engines with stright water and a thermostat and they never ran hot…… so idk but adding anti freeze is my only clue……. still 222 degrees after mins of idle with no thermostat is kinda scary fast heat build up……

Anybody got any clue on any of this…..

All i can guess is the engine is suffering from pre detonation

Topic

[college man]

With no thermostat the engine temp will not be regulated. The cylinder walls are not
being cooled causing cylinder temps to climb causing the detonation. Before you add
any coolant, Install a brand new thermostat of the proper temp (180′ F?) then refill with
green 50/50 mix. bleed air and see if the problem is solved. I would also like to note with
only water in the system rust may be present and should be flushed while the t-stat is still
out and before coolant is added.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats?start=1#Thermostats

[Charles]

If your pressure cap is working and is 14LBS the boiling point of the water would be about 250F. It is 212F at sea level pressure. Now, if you know the thermostat is out and the engine is getting as hot as you say then I would go for the water pump as the likely cause of the problem. With that many miles perhaps the impeller is completely gone.

[OnThe7ThDayFord]

Problem solved.
Vehicle got to the point it wouldn’t even run….
Pulled plugs and ran a compression check…. 215 across all cylinders.
Leak down passed.
Installed new plugs…. vehicle started running with throttle ast…….. hooked a exhaust reader to tail pipe and got a extreme lean reaing even at 3k rpms…… live data showed upper o2 sensor had a rich condition…..
I pulled the cat and the engine fire right up…… runs perfect now…… with ati freeze and stat back on the temp has not exceed 185…..

Cat caused over heat and complete power loss.

Vehicle has tons of power now!

[college man]

Glad you got it worked out. I take it no emissions in your area?

[Author]

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