Front end clunk that resonates through the springs

[Curt]

Hey everyone! I read through a bunch of posts I found about this issue, but I’d like to go ahead and ask anyway. Two months ago, I replaced my front struts on my Dodge Caliber, but I neglected to do the mounts. I would hear a bit of front end noise still, and I heard it was good practice to replace the mounts as well. I ordered some Moog mounts, which came with the strut bearings, and installed them a few days ago. It rode very well, and still does. However, a new noise has come to the surface. It only appears when the car is stopped, or moving very slowly, and it happens whether the engine is running or not. While turning the steering wheel, popping sounds, as well as the resonation through the springs, can be heard several times while the steering wheel is moved from left to right. I have replaced most of the front suspension, a lot of it recently, and it seems whenever I put a new part in, it finds something new to drive me crazy! :blink:
Here’s a list of the new parts I’ve installed: (all front suspension)
2 lower control arms
2 outter tie rods
2 struts
2 strut mounts with bearings
I’ve checked everything I can think to check. There’s no 12-6 play, or 9-3 play. I have a shop manual for the car, and torqued all bolts to factory specs. While rolling at a good speed, the car behaves and handles just fine. Can anyone think of anything I might have missed? Any advice is greatly, greatly appreciated!

Topic

[dreamer2355]

I would grab a mechanics stethoscope and start probing the suspension components as you have a help rotate the steering wheel.

Does the noise also occur when you raise the front wheels off the ground while rotating the steering wheel?

[college man]

here is a link to help.

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

[Curt]

Hey folks, sorry I didn’t get a chance to reply until now. I haven’t had a chance to lift the vehicle up and see if the noise still happens with everything unloaded. I should have some time to check that out tomorrow. Also, thanks for the link! I’ll give that a look before I climb back under it, and hopefully I can get a little better listen of it. I wonder if it’s the new strut bearings. My old ones were metal, but the ones that came with my moog kit were plastic. When I installed them, I waited until I took the spring compressor off and had the assemblies both back in the vehicle before I put the final torque on them. It said it was supposed to be 44 ft lbs. Does this sound about right to everyone? I can’t wait to get back under there and find this noise!!

[Walter Cheryba]

Don’t know if this is valid for your issue or not. Sometimes the upper strut mounts are position specific for orientation when installing. I’ve run into noise issues after putting them in on other vehicles (not a Caliber). They go into the mounting holes of the body OK but they are angled wrong for the strut. Sometimes the difference is VERY subtle but it’s there and there is not always any clues from the part supplier or in the service manual about it.

[Bill]

[quote=”sunset” post=69352]Don’t know if this is valid for your issue or not. Sometimes the upper strut mounts are position specific for orientation when installing. I’ve run into noise issues after putting them in on other vehicles (not a Caliber). They go into the mounting holes of the body OK but they are angled wrong for the strut. Sometimes the difference is VERY subtle but it’s there and there is not always any clues from the part supplier or in the service manual about it.[/quote]

++++ on that

[Curt]

Hey folks, let me start off with saying I’m so sorry that I haven’t updated any sooner than this. It’s been a very busy and tiring few days, and my temporary solution for the car was to turn the radio up… lol! But anyway, the strut mounts for this car are triangular, and they fit in the same no matter how they are installed. I haven’t had the chance to get completely under it, but I know the noise goes away when the car is up off the ground. (i found that out by trying my new jack that i bought yesterday. got tired of using the scissor one that came with it) I also found out something that shows me close to what the problem is. While the vehicle was turned on, and sitting normally on the ground, I moved my steering wheel back and forth while holding the spring in different locations to see if I could feel anything. As it turns out, the bottom moves smoothly and consistently. However, when I put my hand up toward the upper mount, I can feel the top part of the spring sticking and releasing as the strut moves through its turning. The spring is properly seated at the stops on the top and bottom mounts. The only thing I can think that it could be is the strut bearings binding and releasing. They are brand new, and I have no idea why they would be doing this. They are the plastic bearings that came with the moog strut mount kit. I torqued them after the strut had spring tension back on it, and it was installed. Has anyone had this happen?

[Walter Cheryba]

Sounds like the upper strut bearings are the culprit. I’ve not come across the plastic bearings? yet but do not doubt that they exist. What construction are the O.E. ones? I’d be speaking to my parts supplier about this. Let us know the end result!

[Curt]

That’s what I’m thinking. I got the parts from rockauto.com, but I’m thinking I should be contacting moog and see what the deal is. I’ve used a few of their parts over the years, and they’ve all seemed to be ok. Does anyone have any advice on moog, be it good or bad? The old bearings are metal, and I may be putting them back in there. The new mounts didn’t solve the original noises anyway! I have a funny feeling that I’ll be rebuilding the whole front suspension, but it’s all good. Next to replace will be inner tie rods, end links, and stabilizer bar bushings. I’ll probably do the control arms again, because I would really like the ability to grease the ball joints instead of just waiting for them to rot out and fail.

[Walter Cheryba]

MOOG is usually OK. Every once in awhile they cover too many applications with one part and there are discrepancies. SOMETIMES with Chrysler products only the dealer parts work correctly. Does any mfr. carry a complete strut/spring/mount assembly for your car? I’ve had great results doing it that way and it costs less overall. What year is this Caliber? How many miles?

[Curt]

When I initially did my struts, I tried to find a quick strut set up, but unfortunately there were none to be had. I let the mounts stay put at that time. I put the new struts in back in the middle of June this year. It was a nightmare getting the spring off the old ones, due to the special tool I didn’t have. I used Monroe sensatrac, and they have treated me wonderfully in terms of ride quality. I had gotten used to the bad handling of the old struts, so putting the new ones in, my Caliber felt like a new car again. I still heard some noises from the front end, and that’s what prompted me to change the strut mounts. Its a 2009, and as of right now it has 143000 miles on it. (I’m a steamfitter, so I have to commute a lot for work.) I have no problem putting some money into her, since she’s treated me so well. I’ve had her since she had only 10 miles. After 143000, there’s definitely some worn out stuff under there, I’m sure, and I’m happy to replace anything that can’t be serviced with something that can be. I’m not a fan of the whole non-serviceable suspension joints thing.

[Curt]

I emailed rockauto.com a little bit ago, and they’ve already responded. They are willing to send me a new part out, so I don’t even need to deal with moog! So, my next question is when I put these new ones in, when I sandwich the strut assembly back together with that little top nut, do I torque it to spec while the spring compressor still has the force of the spring, or is torquing it while its in the vehicle acceptable? I really don’t want to screw up another one, in case it was something I did wrong.

[Curt]

I hate to post so much so quickly, but I have to amend an error I made in an earlier post. The stock bearings were also plastic. They were black in color, and I hadn’t looked at them closely.

[Walter Cheryba]

MOOG might be willing to answer your torque procedure question. As for the rest of the noises did you change out the coil spring seat cushions (if equipped)? They might look good but do deteriorate with age and use. They can become noisy. you said RockAuto was going to send you a new part (singular). Does this mean you are only having this new noise on one side of the car?

[Bill]

I’m just wondering if you got the correct parts for that car. You might have to contact Rock Auto and go over that with them. Give them the VIN# as sometimes production dates come into play.

Monroe makes quick struts that come with everything assembled (struts, springs and upper bearings). I have had good luck with them so far.

[Curt]

Hello, everyone! I’m back with an update on the Caliber. I reinstalled the stock strut mounts, and I torqued the nut on the stop of the strut to 44 lbs with the spring still compressed (I read the manual a bit closer this time). I reinstalled everything, and there is no more annoying spring noise! Rock auto was great about letting me return the mounts. When I removed them, I tried to rotate the bearings a bit, to see if I could feel any binding in them. They felt ok, but maybe when they were installed, the weight was making the defects more obvious. (or maybe I just didn’t torque everything back in the right order! LOL!) Anyhow, I’m going to leave those mounts in there for now, until they start to wear down some more. After all this, I know exactly what to look for!

Some more good news: I found what was causing all the noises in the first place. Lower ball joint is starting to go bad. The car would occasionally make noises over larger bumps, and when turning the steering wheel. When I had everything apart, I got a really close look, and I could see the play in it when I pulled on the spindle. I have already done the control arms about a year and a half ago, and they have roughly 35-40k on them. I noticed a small knick on the boot, and I’m guessing water got in it. The right one is fine, but I’m going to do both anyway. I bought some Moog R series, which just came today, but unfortunately they don’t have the grease fittings in them, when I thought they did. I don’t feel like dealing with the return process once again, so I think I’m just gonna install them and get the problem solver ball joints whenever it’s time to replace them again. (of course, that was supposed to be the plan for this time, but oh well.) I want to thank everyone for all the advice, as it was a great help to figuring this out! B)

[Author]

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