- This topic has 6 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 4 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
I’m getting ready to replace all front end bushing and ball joints and I have the confidence to do it, but my question is what parts do I remove first in a step-by-step order?
Like sway bar first, lower control arm etc..
My Haynes auto book for this car is vague as far as doing front end bushing, there is no step-by-step in the book as far as this job goes.
1969 el camino.
Thanks.
-
Replies
-
On a vehicle like yours everyone has their own order for removing components. It’s fairly basic. The most important thing to remember is to compress the coil springs before you remove anything. The energy built into the springs is scary if not handled correctly. If a compressed coil spring gets loose it can injure you in a nanosecond.
I found this in my hard drive for a Chevelle…I don’t know who to give the credit to, but hope it helps. Click on link for pictures…..be safe
Jack the car up by the frame so the front wheels are hanging in the air. Use jack stands; do not leave the car on the jack. I actually like to use large wood blocks .Remove the front wheels Remove the front shocks. If you are not going to reuse the shocks the easiest way is to put a deep well socket on the upper stem and nut, put a long extension or several extensions on the socket and bend the nut and stem back and forward. The stem will snap off on the third of fourth bend. (Of course the correct way is to put an open-end wrench on the end of the stem to keep the shock absorber upper stem from turning and then remove the upper stem-retaining nut, but that is easier said than done). Remove the lower shock mounting bolts and discard the shock. If you’re using a new shock and it came with new bolts (most good shocks do) discard the mounting bolts. Remove stabilizer link bolts. Remove the brakes On disk brakes, Remove the caliper, you can hang it with a coat hanger, but I like to remove them. Loosen the banjo nut that holds the brake line to the caliper. I find that if you take an old tire valve stem and push it up into the hole on the brake line mounting block it makes a great seal and you will not have as much trouble bleeding the brakes, it also stops brake fluid from leaking on your floor or the drain pan from getting kicked over. If you remove the banjo bolt you will need new copper crush washers, so get them now. Remove the rotor. Take the dust cover/hub grease cap off the rotor, remove the cotter pin and discard, do not reuse. Remove the spindle nut and washer. Put your thumb over the end of the spindle, do not let the bearings fall and hit the ground. The rotor, hub assemble, bearings and races can now be removed as a whole. Hint. Put the spindle nut and washer on top of the outer bearing and reinstall the dust cover/hub grease cap on the rotor. This will keep all the parts together so you will be able to find them later when you need them. While you have this assemble off the car you should consider repacking the bearings. Be sure to inspect for any burnt or damaged races and bearings. Replace as needed. Remove the three bolts that secure the rotor dust cover to the spindle, the two lower bolts also secure the steering knuckle to the spindle. Remove the dust shield. You now have clear and unobstructed access to both the upper and lower ball joints. On drum brakes, remove the drum. Take the dust cover/hub grease cap off the drum, remove the cotter pin and discard, do not reuse. Use a brake adjusting spoon and back the brake shoes all the way off. Remove the spindle nut and washer. Put your thumb over the end of the spindle, do not let the bearings fall and hit the ground. The drum, hub assembly bearing and races can now be removed as a whole. Hint. Put the spindle nut and washer on top of the outer bearing and reinstall the dust cover/hub grease cap on the rotor. This will keep all the parts together so you will be able to find them later when you need them. While you have this assemble off the car you should consider repacking the bearings. Be sure to inspect for any burnt or damaged races and bearings. Replace as needed. Personally I like to remove the entire brake assemble to provide room to work. However, you can remove the brake shoes from the backing plate. Remove the brake anchor pin and two bolts securing the brake backing plate and steering arm to the steering knuckle. Withdraw the steering arm and brake backing plate from the steering knuckle. Now wire the backing plate and wheel cylinder to the frame in an out of the way place.
Yeah, you are going to need a spring compressor. I used to do this on second generation Trans Ams, I had a couple, and those springs were stout. This is the sort of job that makes you sweat whether it is warm or cold. I’d buy a new spring compressor (don’t trust a rented tool) and read the directions carefully. I also had a large chain and I would shackle the spring to the chassis.
Once the spring is out the rest is big bolts and easy although the cars I worked on were relatively rust free. Take the control arms to some place that does front end work and have the old bushings pushed out and replaced. Then reassemble. As I recall, GM recommended doing the final tightening of the lower control arm bolts with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels. I hope you are skinny.
As for ball joints, the kits I used always came with complete instructions. So, if that’s still true you should have no problems there.
Sway bar bushings and connecting links on older cars are usually shot. I’ve seen where the connecting link bolt would completely rust away and part. This too is just remove and replace with new hardware.
The Haynes Manual editor may have deleted the section you need on advice of their lawyer. This work is dangerous.
This is one of those jobs that seems like it won’t be a lot of work, but it often ends up being a LOT of work. I’m not saying don’t do it, it will probably never ride better after you’re done. Just be prepared for a long stay on the jack stands while you fight it out. The bushings are the killers.
The above suggestions seem to be on par and I have little to add.
Good luck and keep us posted.
OK guys… Me and a buddy finally got around to doing the front end, and yes, it is a very long process… just got the first two control arms off today and are in the process of cleaning them up and panting them, the old bushings and ball joints were surprisingly easy to get out, which only took a minute on each one.
The old bushings and ball joints were the original ones! Very dry rotted and falling apart in pieces, 45 years will do that….
Question… How much would a shop typically charge for that job? (parts and labor)
In 1970 I think they gave a Chevy Tech 2.0 hrs. per side. Upper lower ball joints and upper lower control arm bushings. .9 for front end alignment. Parts I really wouldn’t know.
Today, if the car was under factory warranty and being repaired at a dealer probably 1.5 hrs both sides and .4 for alignment.
Customer pay… I’m sure would be a lot more at a real shop.
You saved a lot by doing it yourself, but be safe and make sure it’s done correctly.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.