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Hi gang,
Wifes trusty 94 prizm has a new issue.
The heater output used to be quite good after the car hit op temp.
Now its only a tad warmer than ambient.The cable to the valve appears functional. (It moves the lever, and is hooked up correctly)
The valve (the part i can see without taking it apart) appears fine
Both hoses to the heater core are warm/hot, with the top one being a tad warmer.2 issues. Well 3,
The radiator has begun leaking where the aluminum meets the plastic on the top. But its full.
Coolaint overflow tank was empty but it was that way for years and car never overheated and heater was fine
Due to the rad leaking i left the rad cap loose to try and reduce losses.Currently, the overflow tank, which was filled to “full” 2 weeks ago has lost more than half, he is a little above the low line now.
When i did fill the system i put about a cup of coolaint before radiator was full.
On the other hand, my civic same size motor, was far lower on coolaint, probably a quart to fill the radiator and then the entire overflow tank, and his heat was never bad, just a bit worse than usual and hes great now — i used tap water in both, am i going to hell?
Sadly my ebay radiator for the civic is leaking less than 3 years after installation… so thats why it was 45 dollars…..
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Okay. I looked up the valve and see what you are talking about. Is that in the engine compartment or in the heater core box?
And yes, if the heater hoses are uncomfortable for more than a few seconds than they are plenty hot enough.
Oh and best place for a 90 degree elbow is at Home depot or Lowes in the plumbing section.
im thinking its the core is plugged even though the coolant was pretty clean. have to hit up the inlaws who have an air compressor this weekend.
[quote=”dosmastr” post=78771]im thinking its the core is plugged even though the coolant was pretty clean. have to hit up the inlaws who have an air compressor this weekend.[/quote]
Remember to turn the regulator way down. Cooling system parts normally are only exposed to 15-20 psi.
[quote=”dosmastr” post=78771]im thinking its the core is plugged even though the coolant was pretty clean. have to hit up the inlaws who have an air compressor this weekend.[/quote]
Instead use Eric’s video tip
jonsey1886 has a better idea. Compressed air can easily damage a heater core if you are not very carefull
Yeah, I was gonna say “Put vice grips with tape around them on the hose? yep, got it lol”
I don’t know how you guys feel about scotty kilmer but he had a video that said use a flush kit and a garden hose…. but doesn’t a typical household run water at like 40psi?
I also found a vid titled redneck heater core…. something or other, he also ran water then air then water then air. said his compressor regulator was set to 20psi I think. But again, the hose may have been much higher.
sadly my hoses plug in right under the distributer cap and a snaked down through a bunch of junk to get to there… I’m just going to hit up a parts store for some 5/8″ hose, get a couple feet worth and do it like Eric did (after I swap the short tangled hose for my straight 2 ft ones that is)
As a side question:
Why does he deliberately not advertise products that work for him? (I think he used CLR on the core) Well.. I mean not advertise, but why not say “I use X and it works for me” rather than hide it?
Some kind of liability?its bitter cold today too… I feel like an @$$ for not having this fixed by now and having my wife drive in an ice box. (then again if she would just practice driving stick, my car would be an option…. no I still feel like an @$$….)
It is not bad to use a compressor, just have to make sure your pressure is turned way down. Like radiators many heater cores now use plastic ends and many use a “crimp” style construction. If you use to much air pressure and you have a blockage you run the risk of over pressurizing the core and blowing it out (especially if it has some corrosion issue or weak spots)
I have never tried CLR, used vinegar many times.
Ok, heres the deal.
Bottom hose was slightly cooler so figured he was outlet. Blew air in for a few seconds at low low pressure, turned on compressor for like 20 seconds then back off.
Figured i might need more tape on the nossle because it was leaking, came back and the hose that dumped not much coolant upon removal, was full up to the top. Figuring this a good sign i blew more air in until the core sounded evacuated. Then switched and blew the other direction (had to turn compressor back on.)
Refilled rad, started car, its at op temp, top hose w hcv is cool, bottom hose is warm but only a little warm…. normally once the temp gauge says op temp (or even half way from c to normal op temp) i got great heat. Im thinking its the control valve now, do you concur?
Both hoses are warm at the block but only warm… warmer than at the core as i would imagine is normal
Ok. Took the bottom hose off the valve. Shined a light in, it moves as it is supposed to.
Im at a total loss here. Everything is working but this system is not working. This is why i stopping screwing with computers and the like, fix everything that could be causing it and you still dont fix it… and look like an idiot
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