forgive a new beginner 2001 TJ mitsubishi magna executive

[Ellie]

Hi Eric & everyone,

I have read Spelunkerd’s posting on how to post questions so i hope this is an improvement

2001 TJ V6 automatic engine 6G72M mitsubishi magna executive wagon
342776 kilometres

Prior to myself purchasing this car all I know is that it was used to tow a boat & reverse it into boat ramps as to mechanics I know nothing.

I purchased this car in 2013, a month after the gears froze or became stuck, replaced gear box (was completed by a mechanic)

2016 i replaced radiator with a new one. (i have worked on manual cars & finally worked out why automatics bleed red)

2017 replaced sump (this was done for me by a farmer where I had pierced the sump by hitting a rock the front of the car is bouncey shocks appear to be good,two different sizes of sumps for this model)( I have done the bounce test front & back)

Once this sump was attached I drove approximately 9 kilometres to pick up a trailer & back 9 kilometres, on the way back I stopped to visit someone as I was leaving their property I noticed water dripping from under the car it wasn’t a lot,i thought I would be able to make it 4 kilometres & I did only to have the radiator bottom hose blow off. Steam rising & the car was hot when the car cooled down we poured water in whilst the motor was going.
I drove 9 kilometres slowly with a motor bike on the trailer,from that day there were air bubbles in the radiator.
I tried bleeding with the heater on. Then tried with the car up a hill so the motor was higher than the rest of the car & that didn’t appear to relieve the problem on either occassion.

On an occasion when the temperature gauge went up I put the heater on & that relieved the issue.
Then I found it was the heater hose that had a pin hole of a leak so I changed that. Prior to this I thought it may have been the radiator cap so I replaced it.

Also after this the alternator decided to give up, turn the key & nothing,prior to that i would turn the key 2-3 times before it would start,there was a noise, i cant remember the noise to describe it now, so I had the old one re built with new brushes.
I had to take it back a second time even though the day they put the alternator back in it still did the same ,turn the key & nothing did this 2-3 times & then it would start & I took it back that day I was told to try it for a week, also said it maybe the key, & if it needed to come back then they would fix it.

It turns out they should have put a new solenoid in at the same time as the alternator. They agreed to carry the cost of labour. (problem is I had to travel 200 kilometres round trip)

Also in winter the choke was stuck I couldn’t unstick it, drove 150 kilometres to talk to the mechanic & he altered the speed adjustment screw (idle)? & then I did this to my ear of the sound of the motor that I thought was right.

Since all this has happened I kept an eye on the radiator water/coolant green, level topping it up when ever I was going out.
Also it appeared that the overflow bottle from the radiator was not sucking properly as it didn’t appear to change levels.

BIG PROBLEM NOW!!!!!!!

On thursday 13th September2018 I topped up the radiator drove7.5 kilometres I had to slow down to let cattle cross the road when I noticed the temperature gauge heading up towards the High mark it stopped 2 bars below the red,i think this may have been because I came to a stop,I drove about 500yards to be able to pull over safely & the motor stopped & I rolled to a stop.
I tried to restart the car after letting it cool down & it only turned over but wouldn’t fire up.

Stupid mistakes I made that day.
1 opened radiator cap (safely with towel over cap) it just blew.
2 should have turned heater on.

I had her towed to a safe spot & tried again when it was cooler but still would not fire up & yes I did fill the radiator up,i turned the key & the engine whirred & wouldn’t fire. Its not the sound of turning the key and it turns out to be a flat battery

When you turn the key it just whirrs.

Now it doesn’t even do that.

I have done a few checks following Eric’s videos.

1 headlights are bright as well as the interior light,so I think that indicates the battery is good.
2 Checked & cleaned battery terminals
3 checked water in radiator & filled as well as the overflow bottle
4 checked that there was no debris between the radiator & the outer front radiator (the fins on the outer front ones may require some attention)
5 checked air cleaner (oh my definitely a new one required)
6 I did pull out the no 2 coil but could not remove the spark plug. (I don’t have the right tool at present.)so put it back into its spot
7 washed motor so I could find it, very greasey/oily (Whilst on trailer coming home it leaked some oil)
8 checked oil dipstick & oil cap,oil is brown/black no milk.

I haven’t checked power steering oil or automatic oil dipstick.

I wanted to see if there was fuel coming through the rail hence my earlier question about the high pressure hose & how to remove the rubber hose from the metal part of the hose? Or

could I use the hose that goes into the back of the high pressure regulator?

I have also purchased Max Ellery’s vehicle repair manual for mitsubishi 1991-2005 magna/verada

Today I turned the key on and the heater fan appeared to want to start sounded like it had charged itself but after two turns of the key there was no noise.

Another problem I have encountered today the positive battery connections the bolt that tightens the connectors snapped at the head.

I have tried two (2)spanners one (1) on either nut on either side & applying pressure I haven’t been able to unscrew this,even tried a spray of ezyglide on the nut.(short of using the angle grinder)

ANY SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED.

I have attached 2 photos.

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