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I own a Ford Ranger 93 with a 2.3 L engine, and I am having issues with the timing belt and the brake caliper.
1) Why is it that when I align the timing marks, the car doesn’t have the power to accelerate when necessary until it reaches high RPM? I changed the head cylinders, and everything is aligned, but I just can’t get the power necessary.
2) Though I am capable of braking, if I do so too hard, the car will veer to the right, and in order for me to stop from a complete crash, I need to release the brake. I have changed both calipers in on the left and right side, the brake line hoses for both calipers, and the master cylinder, and this still happens. I don’t know what else I can do.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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1) make sure your timing is set to spec at the correct RPM.
2) make sure there is no air in the system. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Did you bleed the calipers and make sure no air bubbles were in the new lines?
I already took out the air out of the lines and did bleed them. I’m starting to wonder if I should change the master cylinder or the calipers again. As for the timing belt, it is at the correct RPM, so I’m still stumped there too.
I’m not talking about the timing belt. I’m talking about setting the ignition timing (with a timing light, setting the correct number of degrees). The specification for timing degrees and idle are found on the underhood sticker, or in your vehicle’s service manual.
How do you do that with an electronic ignition timing? Does it have to be done with a computer, because it doesn’t have a distributor, as far as I know.
If one side’s brake is working properly, and the other side is not, there is either something wrong with the fluid line (blockage or restriction, or air in the line), or the caliper is not working correctly.
If you have the distributorless ignition, it should manage the ignition timing on its own, so you are correct that it cannot be manually adjusted. In that case, it sounds like your cam is not on the right tooth. Can you describe the procedure you did, and the marks you used, when installing the new belt? Do you have a service manual for this car, and did you reference it during these two jobs?
Distributorless or not, if you mark your balancer, you can check your timing with a dialback light. Even its not adjustable, you will at least know where you. Far as timing belt aligment, ect, you maybe able to see something with a compression test, if you think the dynamic compression is down. My thoughts on this, something else is being overlooked. Sparkplug wires crossed, broken or disconnected sensor, that type of thing.
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