Ford Bronco cranks but not starts

[Maxine]

I’ve got a 94 Ford Bronco, Eddie Bauer 5.8 made in the US that cranks but won’t start. I am not getting any spark or fuel. The first time it shut off on me was April 7th, i jumped it off and it cranked back up. I had the battery / alternator tested and Autozone said I had a bad alternator. I replaced it and the truck cranked right up, but next time I went to crank it did not crank. I came back after a few hours and it cranked up, no problem, but then cut off as I was backing up.

Over the last few weekends, I’ve cranked it sometimes by spraying starter fluid in the throttle body. I pulled the Key on engine off codes, gave me 511, 522, 523 and 654. As far as I can tell, there is no spark from the coil to the distributor although the coil has power. I swapped out a new coil, same problem. No spark at plugs either. Also, no fuel at injectors. Not sure if I should see or smell fuel at the throttle body, but I don’t.

I replaced the ICM too, as it was not functioning according to Haynes testing, but I put the old one back anyway just to make sure and no change. Up until yesterday, I could hear the fuel pump come on but now I don’t. Battery is low, but I had a charger on it when I tried to turn the key on to get the fuel pump to prime – no luck. Inertia switch is not tripped. Plus I changed the fuel filter Saturday. That’s about all I can think of that we’ve checked and done.

Any thoughts on what else I might test?

Topic

[James]

Did that model have the crank position sensor. Might check that as far as the initial loss of fuel and spark

[Maxine]

As far as I understand it, it does not. The PIP does that instead.

[Mike]

At this point I’d be tempted to get back to basics and try things with a brand new and fully charged battery, or at least another battery that is known to be in excellent or very good condition.

Other things to check for would be the condition of battery cables, terminals, connectors and body/frame ground connections.

[Maxine]

I got a full charge on the battery, it’s still good. I had it tested as well.

[Andrew Phillips]

Check your fuses. Sounds like a blown fuse, or maybe a couple. Check the Maxi 30A fuse under the hood. It’s a cartridge fuse, it looks usually like a little pink plastic box, with a clear top and the number 30 printed on it. This relates to the EEC-IV code 511, no power to PCM pin #1. EEC-IV code 522 and 654 relate to the park/neutral safety switch (522) and transmission not in Park (654). Code 523 relates to the fuel pump circuit. These could all be thrown because the PCM is not working due to a blown fuse.

Attachments:

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[Maxine]

Checked all fuses, swapped relays to make sure those weren’t bad, everything tests out good there.

[Author]

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