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Here is a few notes that make this job easier.
1. Save all the old bearings and races so you can make drivers for the new ones.
2. Clam shell style bearing remover will pull the bearings off without damage (most of the time.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential-Axle-CARRIER-PINION-BEARING-PULLER-/351767966077?hash=item51e701317d:m:mGmoVfquXK1mo40rbZEhckA&item=351767966077&vxp=mtr
3. Chill the diff and warm the ring gear, and it usually drops into place so you don’t need to press it on.
4. Setup bearings will get you close, but because the inner bearing race expands slightly when pressed on, the pre-load will be tighter than with the setup bearings.
5. I found these $29 Raytech pinion depth gauges work good and are easy to use (compared to the universal dial indicator pinion depth gauge setup.)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10006/overview/make/ford
6. You can get crush sleeve eliminator kits (a solid spacer and shims) which is re-useable.Because the pinion is conical, moving the pinion axially towards the ring gear should decrease backlash, and, oppositely moving the pinion axially away from the ring gear will increase backlash.
That means that one needs to cycle back and forth between backlash and tooth contact patterns a few times to home in on the right meshing of the gears.
Such is certainly the case for rebuilding the right angle bevel drive ring and pinion gearing on “shafty” motorcycles.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=169146]Because the pinion is conical, moving the pinion axially towards the ring gear should decrease backlash, and, oppositely moving the pinion axially away from the ring gear will increase backlash.
That means that one needs to cycle back and forth between backlash and tooth contact patterns a few times to home in on the right meshing of the gears.
Such is certainly the case for rebuilding the right angle bevel drive ring and pinion gearing on “shafty” motorcycles.[/quote]
Depends if the gears are face hobbed or face milled. The different types of gears react differently to pinion depth. That’s why I put out this video before the build videos started.
Thanks for the input.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=169129]Here is a few notes that make this job easier.
1. Save all the old bearings and races so you can make drivers for the new ones.
2. Clam shell style bearing remover will pull the bearings off without damage (most of the time.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential-Axle-CARRIER-PINION-BEARING-PULLER-/351767966077?hash=item51e701317d:m:mGmoVfquXK1mo40rbZEhckA&item=351767966077&vxp=mtr
3. Chill the diff and warm the ring gear, and it usually drops into place so you don’t need to press it on.
4. Setup bearings will get you close, but because the inner bearing race expands slightly when pressed on, the pre-load will be tighter than with the setup bearings.
5. I found these $29 Raytech pinion depth gauges work good and are easy to use (compared to the universal dial indicator pinion depth gauge setup.)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10006/overview/make/ford
6. You can get crush sleeve eliminator kits (a solid spacer and shims) which is re-useable.[/quote]Excellent advice.
A fine display of persistence. Sometimes it’s our greatest resource.
Three things to think about.
1. I wonder how they did it at the factory where speed counts for so much?
2. For precision machine work, stacked shims must be ultra clean and pressed together hard (more than by hand) to get an accurate thickness.
3. Considering the gearbox output forces hitting that “diff,” I’ll bet it all flexes much more than any backlash spec of 10 thou. Steel is more elastic than we think.
Hey Eric , great video. I could actually feel the frustration you had, This reminded me one ETCG1 video “be like Yoda” . You were quite pacient during the repair. Keep up the good work and remember, smashing the differantial with a sledge hammer os a pathway to the dark side.
Used to build azipod type drives for logging boom boats back in the 70’s.
Had shim stock by the roll and just cut ones we needed.
Maybe if you had a couple rolls of some .003 , .005 etc. stuff it may have cut some of the frustration, although, the “off camera” swear jar may have been a little emptier
When you were having trouble setting backlash, it reminded me of the first gears I installed in my bronco. After I mic’d all the shims, I realized no two shims were exactly the same thickness (could be because I was using a Yukon kit, I don’t know). Anyways because of that, when I got to the point where moving a shim from one side to the other was just switching from one side to the other of my spec, I would switch two shims, ONE from EACH side and that’s how I brought it within spec because shims were sometimes just one or two thousandths different.
As I mentioned, replacing the setup bearing with the actual pressed on pinion bearing changed the pinion depth slightly, and in-turn caused the backlash to tighten up.
Good job on the videos, keep then coming.
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