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I was checking my fluids today after coming back from the range (bout a 100 mile round trip), my trans fluid is good color wise (pinkish grapefruit flesh color)But there were dark particles in the fluid. I checked it twice, once in neutral which produced dark particles, then once after shifting from P-R-N-D-3-2-1 while waiting 3 seconds between shifts, when I wiped the stick it looked clean. (Image attached).
I have a 3800 V6 Buick with the 4t65e transmission and GM recommends a drain and flush every 50k miles (Maintenance Schedule 1, put 25k miles on vehicle since Jan 2012) but after reading up on the Grand Prix/3800pro forums most owners say to change every 30k as a precaution. I’m thinking about changing the fluid myself, or asking my teacher to use my vehicle next time he demonstrates a BG Trans Flush in the automatic transmissions class.
The second time I went out to check the fluid I noticed a light tap/clicking noise at idle. I’m currently in engines class so I’m going to use my teachers technician stethoscope to try and see if it’s the injectors or tappets. I checked my oil (full synthetic with 5.4k on it) and it was full and still had a dark amber color to it, it was also transparent.
So I’m wondering it it happens to be the tappets should I go with melling (autzone) or sealed power (napa)?
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Sometimes if the trans dipstick has not been removed for a long time dirt and or rust particles can build up inside the dipstick tube. When you remove and install the dipstick it scrapes this crap off of the tube and into the fluid on the stick.
Change the fluid and the filter and inspect the filter for metal and other debris. If reasonably clean and the trans works well I wouldn’t be concerned about it.If we heard the noise it would be easier to advise. Ohhh, BTW, today we call em valve lifters and not tappets.
They’re essentially the same thing, My teacher started automotive in the 70’s so he’s old school, which rubs off on some of us. I’m worried about the noise because my vehicle uses hydraulic roller lifters which should be silent unless the lifter is clogged and is getting no oil to the adjustable piston. I’m going to change oil within the next 500 miles so I’ll add some seafoam next time and hope it quiets down, if not I’m just going to check the valve lash, lifters and push rods in the case that one is bent.
I’ll shoot a video tomorrow. It’s a steady “tick, tick, tick” at idle. I heard it this morning but it went away as I left for class but then again I park in front of the garage and next to the porch which tends to amplify engine noises. I may just pick up a mechanics stethoscope from the auto parts store tomorrow.
Just started her up and took a video yet no clicking noise, the lifter must’ve been clogged with a piece of dirt or something. I’ll change oil here today to make sure.
As for the transmission, should I change the fluid or will those particles likely clog something up and turn my smooth shift into whiplash’ers?
If it’s been a while I would change the fluid and filter. If the filter is blocked with trash and there is metal in the pan at least you know where you stand.
If everything is reasonably clean you have only spent a few dollars for a little peace of mind.Thanks, classes are over but me and another student are putting my teachers 6.5 Detroit diesel back together and putting the engine back in the vehicle starting Wednesday. I’ll see if I have time before or after to change the fluid, if not I’ll take it a local shop. $50 for fluid and filter change.
Fuckin great, I broke the tranny filter neck off inside the transmission. It’s hanging out about 3/4 – 1 inch and tried a flat bladed screwdriver, but it won’t fit between the neck and transmission and I’m not trying to damage the aluminum.
What’s the best way to remove this?
Well..that sucks alright. I would remove the pan and drive it out from the inside. You should be able to buy a new grommet from the dealer or trans shop as well as a new tube..
Just finished her up. Managed to grab the plastic neck and wriggle it enough to break the seal. I also picked up a pack of hooked hand tools which I inserted into the neck and pulled it out from the inside. The pan had a nice film on clutch dust on it and the magnet was covered in a trans fluid/clutch dust sludge. The service manual and the owners manual say a drop and fill should remove 7.4qts. I put six in, shifted through all of the gears and it still read full. Drove it a couple miles, shifted through gears again and its still reading full. 1st gear makes a whining noise if I manually select it. The same can be heard in second but to a lesser extent.
I’ll check it again in the morning to make sure it’s full. Thanks for the advice!!
Looks like I’ll be dropping the pan again. Some folks online are saying the whining noise is caused by fluid cavitation which is caused by air pockets in the fluid. Tends to happen with aftermarket filters and o rings.
After I posted the last message I found that the transmission fluid had settled overnight and after a short drive I added 1.5 more quarts of fluid which matches the owner and service manual for 7.4 quarts after dropping the pan and filter. I got to class and after parking I checked for the 1st and 2nd gear whine, which I did not hear. The fluid level is now even with the max mark on the stick and there are no bubbles in the fluid.
Hopefully this fixes it.
Going to be adding seafoam to the oil before I leave for an appointment. I didn’t change the oil the other day anticipating the tick noise coming back, and it did.
Whirring noise came back, caved in and bought a $60 AC Delco filter direct from the dealership and another 7 qrts of fluid. This one actually says 4T65E on it instead of 4T60E. Popped the OEM filter into place, added more fluid and the whine is all but gone, and the vehicle is shifting smoother.
I’m going to check both the outside and INSIDE of both filters and if I find any discrepancies I’m going to protest for a refund for the first filter and the 7 1/2 quarts of fluid I wasted the first time around.
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