Flooded engine, Yes tried ETCGs procedures. nada..

[Lorenzo]

Motor B20b with B16 head vtec converted

Ran perfectly fine on day one of start up (been building for awhile now and finally got my ecu chipped)

overheated day 1. Problem…
There was a leak in a coolant hose that went from thermostat housing to intake manifold that has a leak. replaced.

Fuel pressure was at around 32 psi at idle. Tuner said adjust it to 40. So i did…

Day 2…
Went to start up and let idle…
Got to about half way on the temp gauge and bogged down completely. hsnt started since.

Checked Fuses…theyre good
Checked relays…theyre good
Checked fuel pump….yup
main relay….yup good
no ecu cels….nope all clear
vacuum leaks….nope
great sparks on all four….check
map sensor…good
dizzy clean no oil, powder nothing inside cap and rotor
spark plugs….black and soaked in gas…

Yup symptom of a flooded engine. Maybe when i adjusted the fuel pressure made it spit more so i…
adjusted fuel back to 32psi….

Pulled each plug out…let chambers air dry all day and overnight…
replaced plugs with new ones… disconnected injectors and cranked without plugs to get it aired out….put plugs back in…hooked everything back up…throttle to the ground….and cranked for several minutes. Started smelling like fumes and couple a blow backs and close to a start up but just didnt happen….checked compression just now…
Cylinder 1 cylinder 2 cylinder 3 cylinder 4
141 150 150 153

anything im overlooking or havent checked? Each time i crank and pull the plugs out theyre soaked…Ive gone days with just cranking and wont “un-flood” if thats the problem…Even tried a bit of starter fluid to see if it’d jump but nothing…. thanks for responses. Everything i tried was after reading and doing what people have tried so…im on second to last step which is asking then ill just take it soemwhere and have someone else fix it. Ive gotten pretty dirty lately.

Topic

[Lorenzo]

heres a copy and paste of my specs… sorry long list to edit
Quick walk around
Engine–
B21b 85mm bore
CP 11:5:1
ALC bearings
ARP studs
B20 rods
Machined and balanced b20 crank
Cometic head gasket

Head–
Integra Type r valve cover
Spoon wires
Spoon reservoir covers
B16a port and polished
Skunk2 pro 2 cams
Skunk2 alpha series valves
Skunk2 titanium retainers
Skunk2 dual springs
Skunk2 cam gears
Supertech bronze guides
Bisimoto V2 prototype header
B16a2 intake manifold
B16a2 Throttle body 70mm bored
AEM fuel rail w/pressure gauge
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC 550cc injectors
Abbey Road Co. DC2 intake

Drive train–
B16b JDM LSD transmission
ACT stage 2 clutch and flywheel
DSS 2.9 axles
BWR short shifter
BWR shifter
Hasport b series shift linkages

Suspension–
Function and form type 1
J’s Racing torque damper

Interior–
Spoon reclinable
Takata drift series harness
Oem cargo cover

Exterior–
Oem steelies
Oem hubcaps
Oem sir front lip
Oem sunroof visor
Spoon license plate
Spoon DC2 wipers

[Lorenzo]

Just tried using an air compressor to blow everything out… more bogs but no start up. ICM maybe? But if it were that, I wouldn’t get spark, correct?

[Lorenzo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIfwXDItNcc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Bluesnut]

Spark plugs soaked in gasoline usually means the fuel pressure regulator is leaking badly, the injectors are not pulsing, the spark is too weak, or the compression is too low to create adequate combustion. Removing the FP vacuum line and see if it has gasoline is one way of checking that. Testing for an injector pulse can be done with a Noid light or by listeing to them with a stethoscope as the engine is cranked over.

The compression numbers you show are too low but not likely to be the cause of the problem.
Excessive gasoline can wash the cylinder walls down while causing lowered numbers.
The rule of thumb on compression pressures is the compression ratio X 18-20 at sea level with a dropoff as the altitude goes up, barometric pressure changes, etc, etc.

If the engine oil is not badly diluted with gasoline I would advise retesting the compression one cylinder at a time with the wet method; meaning a small squirt of engine oil in each cylinder before testing. If the numbers jump from 140-150 up to 180 give or take then there is likely a piston ring problem.

[Lorenzo]

Thanks. Ill get the tester again tomorrow and try the wet test. I forgot to do it since my grandpa was giving me a ride and had to leave. I pulled the vacuum line from the fpr and it was dry, should I try turning it over without it plugged and see in anything squirts through?

[Lorenzo]

Havent don’t wet test but I’m pretty sure chambers were dry. Left them open overnight again, air dried with compressor, put the plugs back in and without injectors clipped on, cranked it. Pulled the plugs and they were dry. Connected injectors and tried again with pedal all the way down and when I cranked it seemed like there’s still fuel going in. Is that normal? I thought on deflood mode it’d cut fuel to the injectors. Maybe an ecu issue since it is chipped and vtec converted?

[Shaun Flichel]

her plugs should not be wet, CPU is calling for more gas than required. first, unchip it, then start at the basics, first and foremost. maf sensor

[Lorenzo]

Ok well I got it settled. My friend came over and looked over things. Plugged hondata ecu in… after a couple of minutes of diagnosis, he noticed my plug firing order was wrong. Started right up. He drove a hour one way to tell me that. It was definitely flooded but after I unflooded and let it dry I put the plugs back in and plugs wires were placed incorrectly so that’s why I couldn’t get it to start. Thanks guys for everything. There might be another issue regarding the valve seals I’m getting smoke from the valve cover breather. Time to start researching and figure that out too. Thanks ETCG

[college man]

Glad you worked it out.Thanks for the update.

[EricTheCarGuy]

That’ll do it. Thanks for the update. BTW Honda uses a positive type valve seal that hardly ever goes bad. Everyone hopes for vale seals but the most likely cause of oil consumption is worn rings. Good luck.

[Author]

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