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[FIXED] Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here [FIXED] Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal

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  • #876865
    Stephen CarneyStephen Carney
    Participant

      I am working on my mom’s 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I have a P0133 DTC that I expect to be the cause of an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold. I removed the heat shield and found that one of the studs is missing, see attached photo. I have attached several pictures that are probably worth the proverbial thousand words. I originally thought that the bolt broke off inside the head, however I am no longer so sure. I got a new stud from the dealership today, and I was able to hand tighten the stud past flush with the other bolts. I put the stud in long end first and it installed way past flush with the other bolts. I also installed the short end first and it was still actually slightly past flush with the other bolts. So unless they gave me the wrong part I am now fairly convinced there isn’t any remnants of the stud in there, since I can hand tighten all the way down past flush.

      To summarize:
      I can’t see any remnants of a stud in the head, can anyone else? Do I have right part from the dealer, what is the proper orientation to install the stud? I’ll install using the two nut method, I can’t find a torque spec, any ideas how tight the stud should be? Any other tips on installing the stud, eg should I use anti seize etc…

      Any help would be really appreciated.

    Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
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    • #876871
      Billy AndrewsBilly
      Participant

        If the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking, a gap has been burned in it and just replacing the missing stud will not fix the leak. You’ll need to replace the gasket. So IF there’s a leak there, I would go ahead and pull the manifold. Then you can pull one of the existing studs and verify the length.

        You should be able to verify the leak by running the engine and putting your hand there to feel for air puffing out. Don’t touch the manifold!

        If there’s no leak, just install the stud with the short end in the head, should be fine.

        The hole looks great.

        Heck yes on the anti-seize. No great torque is needed, just get it nice and snug. Torquing the nut will finish seating the stud.

        #876882
        MikeMike
        Participant

          I think Hyundai sold you the wrong stud.
          It appears that the stud you need is Hyundai Part No.: 22125-23001 .

          Found illustrated here: https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-stud~22125-23001.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2003&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=cylinder-head,2022111,22125A

          #884790
          Stephen CarneyStephen Carney
          Participant

            I installed the stud with the short end in first, it was a little shorter than the other studs but there was still plenty of stud for the nut to grab onto. You don’t need a lot of torque as mentioned by relative4. I went maybe a turn or two past hand tight with the two nut method. Others I have spoken to suggested just hand tighten the stud while torquing the nut to the proper torque spec. The torque spec for my car was relatively little torque, maybe 30 foot pounds or so.

            Fixing just the missing stud didn’t fix the code. I had to also replace the exhaust manifold gasket as well. Interestingly, I also had to reset the ECM by pulling the battery connections for a few minutes. When I cleared the codes with my scan tool and ran another drive cycle, the P0133 DTC kept coming back. After some research, it was suggested that I try resetting the ECM by pulling the ECM fuse or disconnecting the battery. After I disconnected the battery and ran another drive cycle, the P0133 was gone and replace with a P0420 DTC. I know the cat is shot on this car, thus the corresponding P0420. Onto replacing the cat.

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