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Hey guys, I’m new here and I’d love to have your input on some questions I’ve got about my car, It’s a 1994 Mitsubishi Lancer GL Coupe Manual.
The car seems to run a bit sluggish and unresponsive when it is cold, so I’m replacing the air filter, which is turning from white to dark grey/black so it looks like it’s been worn out, as well as the oil and oil filter. I’ve recently discovered the K&N brand which allows you to clean your filters, and I’m wondering if it’s worth $60 for an air filter, which is cleanable?
The main problem I have with the car is that the gearbox seems to have worn out on the 1st and 2nd gear, when I’m driving, going into 1st and 2nd seems to be a bit rough, if I stop accelerating on 2nd or 1st gear, the car seems to “hop” in a way, where it decelerates quite quickly, when compared to 3rd 4th and 5th gear. Is this an issue with my clutch, because it does not slip a bit, and it does stall if I were to pull the clutch out.
Thanks, I appreciate any advice!
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K/N is a good filter. try airaid though or any that you can get that dont need oil. Just get a drop in filter Cold air intakes or short rams are hit and miss on cars to their effectiveness. I have K/N filters and have to clean them every year. I have 2, one in the car one in a bag on a shelf. swap and clean the other when convenient, no waiting for drying before putting it back in. if theres no CEL, start cheap and work your way out. theres so much that can cause a car to fall on its face when cold.
your trans could need a fluid change, if your clutch is slipping definitely change it. could also be syncros being worn out. if you double clutch does it shift easier? Had to do this with a Explorer i had that was the reason worn syncros but not worn enough to pay to have them replaced. Might be a glazed over flywheel too
The clutch is most likely cable operated, it has only 193,000 KM’s on the engine, and it does not slip. I’ll have a look into replacing the transmission oil as soon as possible.
What type of transmission oil do you recommend me to put it in?
Also I’m replacing my main engine oil as well, I’m thinking about fully synthetic 15-50, the area I live in does not go below -5 degrees, I’m not sure if it ever has, I just want the car to start and warm up quickly instead of waiting for 5-10 minutes. Thanks for all your responses!
It may be your clutch is not disengaging completely. If the disk isn’t free on the input shaft spline you will have this problem. You also may just need to adjust your pedal free play.
[quote=”roywrench22″ post=37466]It may be your clutch is not disengaging completely. If the disk isn’t free on the input shaft spline you will have this problem. You also may just need to adjust your pedal free play.[/quote]
The clutch hopping effect, where it feels as if its half on and half off? I get that when the clutch is completely out and I just stopped decelerating, letting the car roll before breaking. Is this normal? It’s not doing it any other gear other than 1st and 2nd. Thanks!
i dont recommend changing a higher mileaged car from standard oil to synthetic. if its always had synthetic keep putting it in, if not dont waste the money its not needed and can cause leaks from older seals. always follow the recommended viscosity ratings of your car. check the owners manual, service manual, google, or even call a dealership and ask what is recommended for your car if it says 5w30 use that dont change it.
make sure to do that with the trans too. Ask a trusted service tech if you should switch a trans to synthetic. its helped my cars but might not yours.
you can always pull the clutch and inspect it. if theres any burnt areas of the mating surfaces, replace it. most if not all clutch kits come with the clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot and throwout berings. Ive very rarely heard of standard transmissions having issues unless you thrash on them, like doing 3000rpm dumps, reverse burnouts, and power shifting.
also make sure the cable is in adjustment.
[quote=”Lord Ihcalam” post=37468]i dont recommend changing a higher mileaged car from standard oil to synthetic. if its always had synthetic keep putting it in, if not dont waste the money its not needed and can cause leaks from older seals. always follow the recommended viscosity ratings of your car. check the owners manual, service manual, google, or even call a dealership and ask what is recommended for your car if it says 5w30 use that dont change it.
make sure to do that with the trans too. Ask a trusted service tech if you should switch a trans to synthetic. its helped my cars but might not yours.
you can always pull the clutch and inspect it. if theres any burnt areas of the mating surfaces, replace it. most if not all clutch kits come with the clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot and throwout berings. Ive very rarely heard of standard transmissions having issues unless you thrash on them, like doing 3000rpm dumps, reverse burnouts, and power shifting.
also make sure the cable is in adjustment.[/quote]
The car manual does not state what type of oil to put in, synthetic wise, It’s always had semi-synthetic, is it worth going the extra mile and putting full synthetic in?
i would say no, but i dont believe it would do any harm to do so. just get a quality one. no Great Value Walmart type. My brother runs royal purple in his mustang that he beats on all the time. its expensive, i use quaker state in my saturn. i was always told that if you go full synthetic you cant ever go back. i dont know if this is true or not though.
side note, i wont even put walmart oil in my truck that burns a quart every 700 miles. i dont trust oil that comes out of the bottle the same color that oil comes out of my drain plug is.
depends on the car.
My brothers truck requires 80w for his transmission. his mustang takes Auto transmission fluid. my saturn asks for dextron VI my truck runs royal purple (non oe transmission) my caprice asks for dextronIII some fords ask for DEXMERC Chrysler has a type too tho i dont know the name since i refuse to buy a dodge product. Hondas are honda only, toyotas are toyata fluid recommended too. best thing to do on that is ask the dealer if eric doesnt chime in before you need to change it. You could always google it as well. Something like
“Mitsubishi gallant transmission fluid recommendations”
it came up with this: http://www.ehow.com/facts_7945893_mitsubishi-transmission-fluid-requirements.html
Thanks for the reply everyone, I guess I’m gonna have to look for the transmission fluid, is it possible that this car doesn’t have transmission fluid, or is it impossible for it not to have it? I’ve never seen it under the hood, and I asked the previous owner if its ever been changed, and apparently not. So wish me luck.
Also, do you guys have any information on improving idling? The car seems to idle extremely low, even worse when it’s cold start, if I put the AC on, it will instantly stall on me, when its a cold start, but it idles low that the car starts to shake, I’ll have a look at replacing the oil, the coolant was replaced recently, and the transmission fluid, if I can find it :)…
Thanks!
if its a stick there most likely wont be a dipstick under the hood for trans fluid. on rear wheel drive cars the fill is in the side of the trans like in a rear differential. you pump in fluid until it runs down the side. eric has a video on that.
Idling… vacuum leak, dirty intake, dirty sensors, bad sensor, bad ecu, bad spark plug wires (does it miss at all?) bad plugs bad coil pack (distributor if you have an old car) check out eric’s videos for finding vacuum leaks, and buy a can of carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. again if theres no CEL theres no real direction to start off in, so start hunting around for broken/worn/unplugged stuff.
his latest honda video, the technique can be used to find a leak i think. spray some water over the vacuum lines and where the intake manifold is and see if it dies.
Car is completely mechanic, that rules out sensors and ecu, cleaning my carb is in my todo list, I’m going to replace spark plugs, and wires however it doesn’t miss at all, it just idles at a low rpm than it normally should be at. I’ll have a look into this after my exams 🙂 Thanks
nah in 94 it had a ecu OBD1 but it was there. my parents’ 83 chevy had a ecu. Ive found a digital camera of decent quality is a good aid. you can snap pics of your vacuum lines and that and then zoom them in and alter the brightness to make it easy to see small breaks and that.
I can not find any transmission oil in the car, is it possible that my car does not have transmission oil and instead uses gear oil, if so where can I find it? I have looked at my oil and it seems to be 2/3 below the maximum line, so I will soon drain out all the oil and replace it along with the oil filter, air filter and fuel filter. Could the slow idling be caused by bad oil, bad air filter, bad fuel filter, making the engine work harder? I will also replace spark plugs to see if that helps. Please post any suggestions about the transmission/gear oil, I seriously can’t find anything to indicate that it has it. Thanks!
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