failed attempts in replacing my brake pads, why?

[Adam]

I’ve watched the Youtube videos. I thought I had the tools (I think I do). I was able to take out the old pads and put the new ones in but can’t make the new clamps slide in perfectly. It is the right pads. I couldn’t close the caliper though. I used the C-clamp but I think it was too short (3 inches). Should I have been using a bigger C-clamp since I’m just starting out? I ended up putting back the old pads again and went home disappointed and now there’s more metallic noise against the rotor. Hopefully I can still get it done today without having the need for a new rotor, just to get me by for now. Was it the C-clamp that screwed me up? I was told I can loosen the pressure of the caliper so it would go down by making a button “bleed out”. Whatever that means, sounds more complicated than the Youtube videos.

The car is a 2015 Mazda 3. I would think the caliper is also the same as in any car or is mine’s different? Because the caliper simply would not go down so I can close it in with the new pads.

Topic

[Billy]

Sounds like you’re having a problem retracting the piston. I’m unclear on how you’ve tried to do it, or if the C-clamp was big enough to get around the caliper.
The C-clamp must seat in the piston and behind the caliper while reaching around the caliper. This usually does require quite a large clamp. If you have two pistons per caliper, you’ll need 2 big clamps.
You also need to deal with the fluid, which will back up out of the reservoir as you retract the piston(s). On some cars it’s best to attach a bleed bottle to the bleed valve while you retract; on most, it’s fine to pull the extra fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, etc.

[David]

Pictures really help show what you are describing.

Anyway – getting the pistons to go back can be done by using a c-clamp – I usually use my hands, and for the front calipers (which are often 2 piston) I use one of the old brake pads to let me push both back at once – they go back slowly – just keep applying firm pressure. What I also do is put a tube on the bleeder valve and run that into a catch container, then open the bleeder a bit before I start pressing them back. That way the fluid being pushed out from the caliper as you move the piston goes out of the system, rather than back into the line. (you don’t want to open the bleeder and apply pressure to push back a piston without a tube on there or you will make a mess as the brake fluid will squirt out (and it is damaging to paint – so if you do get some on something, clean it off)) – once the piston is pushed back, tighten the bleeder.

when you are done, put in the new pads and reattach the calipers, then bleed the brakes (better would be to replace the brake fluid and flush the system, but if you have done that recently and the fluid is clean/water free, then just bleeding the system is fine)

[David]

Another thought – if this is the rear calipers, I think Mazda pistons have to be screwed back in (they don’t just slide in) so you need to use a tool to do that (the c-clamp won’t work)

[Billy]

[quote=”DrD” post=193017]Another thought – if this is the rear calipers, I think Mazda pistons have to be screwed back in (they don’t just slide in) so you need to use a tool to do that (the c-clamp won’t work)[/quote]

Good point, they do! I didn’t realize Mazda does that, thanks. OP, hopefully you didn’t put any serious force on the rear pistons with a clamp, damage would result.

http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/Mazda3/RearBrakeInstall.aspx

[Adam]

I see. Yes, this is the rear calipers. I tried to push the piston back in with a c-clamp and it just wasn’t moving at all, although the C-clamp was small (3″). I’ll try a bigger c-clamp and or bleed it out or use a “spreader”?

[Billy]

Do not use a clamp! Read the instructions in the link, and either borrow the tool from the auto parts store or just use pliers to turn the piston.

[Mike]

Before you destroy the parking brake mechanism that is built into your rear calipers, watch this ETCG video on servicing rear brakes
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems/servicing-rear-disc-brakes

[Adam]

OK so I’m an idiot!

But I may have figured some of it out as well…

Here goes; the “bleed nipple” I was able to unscrew to “bleed out the pressure” so the piston would go back in with the use of a “brake spreader” (instead of the c-clamp). Only a bit of fluids came out when I unscrewed it. It could easily be topped off. Although I was only able to put new brake pads on the left side, I’m still running on old pads on the right side because at first try I was thinking of “lefty loosy” and ended up tightening one of the caliper bolts. So, now I’m stuck with a stripped bolt. I have tried every tool suggested to me by Harbor Freight, including tools made to take out a stripped nut. I sprayed PB Blaster as well. I was advised to use a vice grip as well. That didn’t work. Is my last resort is to use heat to heat up the stripped and stuck nut or go to a real shop?

[quote=”relative4″ post=193026]Do not use a clamp! Read the instructions in the link, and either borrow the tool from the auto parts store or just use pliers to turn the piston.[/quote]

[Paul]

If the bolt head is not damaged, then use an impact wrench or a breaker bar with an impacting motion. If the bolt head is damaged, then use bolt extractor using an impacting motion. If the slider pin is spinning freely, then use an open-end wrench (hex cap or notched at the top of the pin body) to hold the pin while removing the caliper bolt.

[Author]

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