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Eric – sorry to bother u with another brake issue that you have covered so well in ur videos. I’m trying to diagnose my situation before buying parts. Had front brake pads changed a couple months ago – in the process the mechanic had difficulty compressing the caliper piston on passenger side – i mean it was really stuck – we used a c-clamp and it took all our might to get it to compress. I guess I should have known then that it was an issue but the mechanic didn’t say anything and went ahead with the new pad installation. As I drove the truck afterward, it was pulling slightly to right on braking but wasnt anything dramatic. Now a couple months later, the truck is shaking when I go down the road, not all the time but sometimes – the right side is heating up and I can smell it when I park the truck. Also the right front wheel is discolored, like dirty when the other 3 wheels are clean – brake dust, I presume? I apologize for asking because you have covered this plenty of times but I’ve looked at so many videos my head is spinning. How can I tell it the caliper piston is sticking vs a bleeder valve issue vs a brake line issue vs a stuck pin issue? Thank you very much.
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I agree with UMBERGBR’s post above (but when replacing the rotor you will need to replace the worn pads also).
1. Given that you have replaced the caliper and pins I don’t believe there is any issue at all with the caliper. The caliper is clearly not releasing either fully (so the pads are firm on the disk)or partially so they are continuing to rub on the disk to the extent that a limited amount of brake pressure is still being applied. Consequently the brakes will obviously overheat badly and you will get brake smoke as shown in the video and excessive brake dust as the brake pads continue to bind (rather than release) as you drive.
2. It seems clear to me from all you have said that there is most likely a blockage in the brake line so that when you release the brakes the brake fluid will partially or totally fail to flow back into the master cylinder. Until you address that likely blockage for the return flow you will continue to have brake binding problems.
Given your description in the video above of the very poor condition of the flexible brake hoses I was amazed that you did not replace them or have someone do it. It seems just about everyone here has recommended that you replace the front flexible brake hoses but it seems you have not just yet.
One simple test you must perform when you have some binding on those brakes is to remove the wheel, clamp the brake hose tight and then open the bleed screw on the caliper. This will release all pressure on the caliper pistons and the pads should release and you will easily be able to rotate the hub assembly. If the pads DO release when you open the bleed screw then you have a blockage up the brake line. Most likely this will be in the flexible brake hose so they should be changed (on both sides even though the other is not a problem yet). Then bleed the brakes again and retest. Just ensure you get every bit of air out of the system and don’t use brake fluid in an opened container from a previous job as I saw in one of your videos. Only use fresh fluid from unopened containers.
By the way, when you described how the mechanic could not push the pistons back in the old caliper to fit the new pads, he should have clamped the brake hose and opened the bleed screw on the caliper. That would have allowed the 2 pistons to be pushed in fairly easily and that is the procedure that should always be used to offset any possible damage to other components with substantial reverse brake pressure being applied up the line. When you open the caliper bleed screw to retract the pistons you are then not forcing fluid under considerable pressure up the line in the reverse direction.
2. Brake Rotor
Rotors do not “warp” they wear unevenly. This condition is known as “disk thickness variation” (DTV) which arises from uneven wear on the disc surface so you get high and low spots. When rotors are replaced the mounting surfaces on the hub need to be very clean (free of rust and debris) so the rotor sits perfectly straight on the mounting surface. A good mechanic will check for any rotor run out to ensure it is properly seated. Others just whack on a new rotor without even preparing the surface properly or not at all.
You should never fit new pads on a worn disc because the new pads will never provide full contact with the worn disk surface which is frequently unevenly worn and scored. The mechanic should have advised you to either machine the old rotor provided this would not decrease the disc thickness below minimum or to replace the rotor with a new one. (The difference in price between a new standard one and machining a used disc is not very much for quite a number of high volume vehicles (probably like yours)).
When you have a DTV condition you will feel a vibration from the wheels (caused by the pad contact with the uneven surface of the rotor) when braking from speed. Usually this kicks in at about 40 mph. Just coast down a hill at speed and apply the brakes and you will feel the vibration kick in. If you have a binding brake on one side of the vehicle so the brakes do not fully release, you should feel the DTV condition when you get up enough speed because braking force is already being applied to the unevenly worn rotor on the faulty side.
As you know an out of balance wheel /tire condition will also kick in from about 40 + mph so if the vibration continues once you have fixed the brakes on the offending side you know what to address.
3. If it were my vehicle I would now do the following:……………..
a. Test as mentioned above to see if you have symptoms of a blockage up the brake line on reverse fluid flow. If the caliper pistons release the pads from the rotor when you open the caliper bleed screw, there is a blockage up the brake line (and you also know the new caliper is functioning as it should).
b. If there is suspected blockage up the line, replace both front flexible brake hoses and retest for binding on the offending side.
c. Once you have resolved the brake binding issue, replace the front rotor and worn brake pads with new items on the offending side or have the old rotor machined if able to be done within minimum thickness and fit the new pads. Replace or machine the rotor on the opposite front side also.Just my 1 cents worth
Cameron
What I am reading from the first post and the replies is that you should be replacing both calipers, hoses, pads and rotors. The fact that the caliper had to be forced by two sets of hands is more than a red flag! At this point bite the bullet, get the new parts, and be done with it. The bleeding of the brakes is the easy part. Eric’s bottle and hose is a clean way to bleed but not necessary. A helper pumping and you opening the bleeder should work fine. I would also let the mechanic know what happened if you plan on using him again. If this job was done right the first time you would not be in this situation today.
Thank you all for thoughtful and thorough replies. Much appreciated. I know that some of you guys invest a lot of time in the forum helping many people and as a result you begin to become more judgmental when newbies like me come in acting stupid, not doing everything suggested and dragging things out. I second that motion and am sorry to be one of these people. If I could afford all the parts and replacements or even to just take the truck to a shop and let them do the full monty on it, I wouldn’t have been here in the first place. I think most people come here for 2 reasons, because they enjoy doing their own work and want to learn and get help or they are trying to get by with the least money spent, doing what they can for themselves. I am the latter. Unfortunately, I can’t shell out $500 to get the front end brakes redone with new rotors, pads, brake lines and whatever else is deemed necessary. If you cannot pay for this work you are stuck. That is where I am. I sure understand frustration dealing with people that have minimal experience and money to do things right. Not happy being one of them and I apologize to everyone for the trouble, for sure.
With this in mind here is what I have determined following the recent suggestions from both here in the ETCG forum and one youtuber who has offered his expertise – I am grateful for all:
1. Non-problem drivers side brake releases – the tire easily rotates b4 and after brake pedal is pumped.
2. Problem passenger side brake line must have an issue – tire rotates with noticeable uneven rotor b4 brake pedal is pumped but is locked after pumping brake pedal. When locked, cracking bleeder valve just enough to let out a drop or two of fluid, the replaced caliper releases and wheel can be turned.So it appears that my caliper replacement may have been wasted money, money I could have used toward getting the rotor turned or toward new rotors and pads for front end.
My next move will be to replace both front end brake lines – the short rubber ends that connect directly to calipers. If that solves the release issue I will be delighted and then when I can afford new rotors and pads for the front end I’ll get them.
Thank you for all the important subtle tips also – like making sure the seat for new rotor is perfectly clean, since I’ll probably end up doing it myself and not being able to test for true. Thank you also for the tip to not use old brake fluid or a half full bottle. I will be sure to use only unopened bottles in the future.
I will report back when I have a new development. Thanks again. You guys are the best!
That test, along with information on how to find bad brake hoses like that can be found here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
I believe you are correct in that you have a brake hose problem. Keep us posted on how things go after the replacement.
Thank you Eric – and thank you all – you guys are the best! Here is my report from today’s efforts:
1. Was only able to get one brakeline replaced because the shop only had one for my truck.
I replaced the passenger side lower end brakeline, the short rubber hose. The job was not without a couple minor snags but I got thru them and will post a video later showing the work with discussion for other newbies like me who might benefit from lessons learned.Guys, I was so relieved when my daughter showed up to pump the brakes for me today – because after bleeding the line, it worked! The first thing I did after bleeding the line was turn the rotor and then ask my daughter to depress the brake pedal and attempt turning the rotor again – something I could not do before replacing the line because the pumped brake would make the caliper seize on the rotor. Well, not this time. The rotor turned after pumping the brake – the stuck caliper is now working correctly!
It is possible and likely that the caliper did not need replacing – hard headed and didn’t listen to you guys and I paid for it. The old brake line was blocked up in the same spots shown in several videos on youtube, where the metal mounting bracket binds in the middle of the hose and toward the end near the caliper where the connection to the metal line/square nut end is – both were blocked or at least I could not get my polyester cord to pass thru those areas.
I will pose a question at the end of my video so I hope you guys will chime in on it. Thx again for your help – greatly appreciated. I had a good feeling when I found the old line blocked up… felt it would work correctly with the new brake line and it did. What joy to test drive the truck – going down the road the truck felt as though it was floating on air… rolling so easily and freely. Instead of seeing the gas needle dropping before my eyes I think it was bumping up toward the FULL direction – the sticking caliper was draining gas while hurting the rotor and break pads. Anyway, the truck is running so much better… fantastic! Cost for brake line and another pint of fluid was $20. Yippeeee!!!!
Don’t beat yourself up because you replaced the caliper. Brakes are a critical component and IMHO it is never a waste of money, or time, renewing old brake parts. Plus you did it all yourself successfully which is highly commendable to say the least.
If I were you I would get the other front brake hose replaced asap as it has possibly deteriorated nearly as badly as the one you have just renewed and might be quite close to a blockage condition.
Cameron
yes, thank you. i will replace the driver side brake line as well. i’ll try to get more miles from the brake pads and rotors and then replace both on both sides, hopefully in a few months. thx again.
Here is last video segment for this part of the repair – thx again to everyone for time invested and help.
Thanks for posting. I really like when we see a resolution at the end. It makes it easier for someone looking for a solution to see it at the end of the thread.
caliper rebuilds are daily cheap. my f-150 was $60. $40 for caliper and $20 for core. My rule of thumb, if all the other breaks are good, and the slider pins are moving then I just replace the caliper. This may seem like a bit too much but when you live in the north east the winter does lots of damage to my callipers especially when the car is more then 5years old.
Hi Eric, I was wondering if you could give me some insight. I recently had the brakes and front rotors changed. After about two weeks the passenger side of my 2011 Ford F-150 Lariet 4×4 3.5L V6 the caliper started to stick. We then replaced that caliper. Within about two days same problem. We though it was the driver side that was going out but it was the same one we just replaced. Yesterday we replaced the brake line, and put a new caliper on the driver side just in case. After replacing the brake line hoping that would fix the problem, the passenger side caliper seized again. What could be the problem? The truck now has new rotors, brake pads, calipers and brake lines….we are stumped! Please Help!
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