f-250 6.8 spark plug replacement?

[Gord]

First I apologize if this topic has already been discussed, I tried the search and it didn’t seem to work too well…

I have a 1999 Ford F-250 with the 6.8l V10. it has about 100,000 miles on it and I understand I should change the spark plugs around about this time. It still runs fine. I try to keep up with the scheduled maintenance I change the oil regularly and have changed the fuel filter, coolant, serpentine belt and upper rad hose, so I have some experience servicing the truck.

However, I have some misgivings about replacing the spark plugs. I’ve seen lots of comments about how bad they are to change and how they strip the holes in the heads, which is something I really would like to avoid!! 🙁

Does anyone have any experience doing the spark plug change?
Is it doable by someone with limited mechanical experience?

Thanks very much in advance.

Gord

Topic

[NissanMaxx]

I never heard anything about the spark plugs stripping the holes in the heads, but I guess its possible. Maybe if yo drop the spark plug in the hole but if you put in gently and slowly tighten it you should be fine. Spark plugs are meant to be replaced at about 80,000 miles so your a little late, but that’s ok. If you really don’t want to replace the spark plugs then maybe you could wait until your car starts getting misfires and then replace them all.

[college man]

I believe the cylinder head/spark plug problem started from
2004-2008 Your vehicle is 1999 should be no issues with the
cylinder head or the spark plug separating. Be sure that the
engine is cool.use motor craft or auto lite plugs. checkthe
plug gap. tiny amount of anti sieze on the threads.torque to
spec and have fun.:P

[dreamer2355]

I agree with College Man (except for putting Anti-Seize on the plugs :P). Just take your time and you should be fine.

If you don’t have access to a FSM for torque specs for the plugs, a Google search should yield the results.

Good luck!

[EricTheCarGuy]

I believe the issue you’re referring to effects later model Ford V8’s, I don’t think it was an issue with the V10’s of that vintage.

[Gord]

Thanks to everyone that replied, you’ve given me the confidence to attack it. Now all I have to do is wait for some good weather, living on the west (wet) coast, that could be a while!! 😉

One last question, I understand gold platinum plugs were used at the factory?? should I install that type as well or is it unnecessary?

thanks again.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I don’t know of any ‘gold’ plugs but platinum plugs are common these days and the reason you don’t need to change them but every 100K or so. I always recommend using what the manufacturer calls for when it comes to plugs.

[college man]

look in your owners manual. The plug type should be listed.
use what is recommended.:cheer:

[Gord]

Well, I finally plucked up the courage (and got some time) to change these spark plugs!
First thing I’d like to say is, “That was fun, but lets not do it again any time soon!”

I had no problem with plugs stripping out the holes, no plugs breaking off or anything like that but those two in the back on the passenger side… well lets just say it was a struggle! EVERYTHING seems to be in the way, the transmission dipstick tube, the heater hoses among other hoses and what not!! The driver’s side is much easier, still fun but not the fun on the other side!

Two or three of the plugs were quite rusty and all were really worn, ready to be replaced. I wasn’t expecting the rust but it explains why I had an intermittent miss and why I had a miss for a while after I got some water on the engine.

Anyway, all seems to be good now, so far… hope it stays that way.

I’m not sure what the ‘flat rate’ is for this work but I’m sure if I had to work on flat rate I’d starve to death!! 😛

I’ll try to upload some pictures of the old plugs for your viewing pleasure…

Thanks to all,
Gord

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• IMG_0004.JPG

[college man]

Glad it worked out.Thanks for the update.

[Bill]

It’s doable by someone with some experience. It also takes a lot of patience as the area around the coils is very cramped. Once you get the coils out you need shop air pressure to blow any debris from around the plugs. Make sure you account for all of the coil bolts and place them away from the truck so they can’t fall down an open plug hole. A coil bolt on top of a piston will cause instant engine damage if the engine is started with it in there. (seen it happen) Once cleaned out you should loosen the plugs a couple of turns and again blow out the spark plug tubes. You can remove them now.

I seem to have luck with applying a drop of engine oil to the threads. Install them hand tight and torque them to manufacture specs. The plug threads in those engines are not good. The plugs need to be tight or they will wiggle until they wear out the threads and the plugs blow out. Add a little silicone grease to the boot on the coils before reinstalling them.

[Author]

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