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The show will go live at 7pm EST. This will be another AMA style show, but the main focus is on answering your automotive questions. I’ll answer as many questions as I can during the hour. Once the hour is up, I’ll post the finished video to this thread and lock it until the next show which will be in 2 weeks, Feb 15, 2017.
Hope to see you there!
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Hey Eric,
I got a 99 Dodge durango, that’s kind of a rust bucket. I have a transmission issue. It started with an output speed sensor code and it getting stuck in high gear. Replaced the output speed sensor but it had a bunch of metal on it. Now I have a 3-4 shift malfunction code and the trans just doesn’t feel right even if I clear the code. Do you think it would be worth it to pull the pan and change the filter and fluid or do something else? it only has 118k miles on it.
Thanks!
Eric,
I just got a 1998 Mercury Mystique (2.5L V6) I just got as a first car… I have a few problems. Recently when the car started idling it would run for 20ish seconds before dropping rpm and dying. Could it be the IAC valve is choking the engine? Also, how would I identify where oil leaks are coming from? Thanks for the videos, they all help a ton!Hey, Eric,
I’m curious what you have going on with the Element’s headlights, but I have a more important question. My girlfriend’s ’06 Odyssey just turned 120k and is making the telltale roaring noise of a bad wheel bearing. Instead of just replacing the bearing, I want to dive the whole way in and replace both front bearings, both lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, both half shafts, all four dampers and progressive rate rear springs. Is this a wise course of action or am I doing too much work too soon? One advantage to this course of action would be to get the lower control arm, steering spindle and strut out of the way when I replace the timing belt and water pump. Your thoughts?
Hey Eric, I have a 98 Towncar with 113k. It recently has been running VERY VERY lean but not throwing any codes. I know it’s running lean because my scan tool shows short and long term fuel trims adding 32%
There is a hole in the resonator around the middle of the back seat area which is bigger than it was couple months ago. Seeing if there is a possiblitiy that air is going backwards to an O2 sensor?Also I cleaned the MAF sensor.
The fuel pressure at the rail is low 30s and IT DOESNT JUMP WHEN JUST TURNING IGN ON. Is that normal or should it jump? What should I look at? Can I put a fuel gauge between the filter and pump?
Thanks great vids
Hey “Eric”
I have a 07 Dodge Ram 1500 and while I was driving it this weak it got stuck in 4th gear. It’s a automatic. I checked the fluid it was fine and no discoloration. While driving I could put it into 1st 2nd, and neutral fine but when in Drive it would be in the mentioned higher gear even from take off. Now it’s been a frigid week in WNY but I don’t think the cold is the culprit. After turning it off and let it sit for a bit it was fine. Should I be concerned about this happening down the road again or chalk it up to freaky coincidence?
Hi Eric
I have a 2001 Gmc jimmy is there anything I can do to get more power or boost. Would a cold air intake do any or not.
ThanksHey eric First of your videos are amazingly detailed and i learn every time i watch, Your dedication to the channel and your work is awesome!
I have a 1991 oldsmobile cutlass calais, The car has a 2.5l iron duke, An engine from several other GM cars, I am considering doing a manual swap, the car has a thm125 automatic three speed, the only available transmission that is manual is a getrag 282 or Muncie 282, out of a pontiac fiero, a Rear engine rwd car, My question is, Considering hte pontiac trans is on the other side, My question is should i be conerned about ransmission mounts and trans pan clearence andthings like that swapping a rear engine trans into my fwd Olds. Also any other advice for a manual swap?I have no problem fabricating custom mounts or whatever
Also my 2005 chevy Malibu has a recurring 8 random codes including fuel and traction control, yada yada yada and they come on and come off randomly sometimes comes on when I floor it. Could these all be one simple issue?
Thanks
2003 Subaru Forester here. When super cold outside (0-20 degrees F), I get a fuel leak where the rubber fuel lines fit onto the metal fuel lines. I’ve tried to tighten clamps, but continues to leak and sometimes needs retightening. I’ve heard this is common on Subarus.
Hello Eric,
I’ve got a 1984 Honda Accord that’s running rich. Idles too low once warmed up (200-300 RPM) and shakes the car unless I put it in Neutral or Park, which raises the RPM to 800-1000 RPM. Carburetor has been rebuilt, distributor, wires, plugs and rotor replaced, air and pcv filters replaced – pretty much everything. The only thing I haven’t replaced related to the issue is the EVAP canister. Could this be the problem or is it something else?
Hey Eric, love the channel.
I own a 2000 Nissan Primera, 160k miles, rust here and there, locks work when they want, 0-60 in about 2 hours, butt-warmer does not work!! Considering upgrading to a slightly newer German car. Please stop me.
07 Jeep liberty, knocking from front passenger side only in 4wd…. i suspect the cv axle and/or inner mid shaft. Could this be because the axle only gets enough torque in 4wd to make the noise?
2003 Subaru Forester here. When super cold outside (0-20 degrees F), I get a fuel leak where the rubber fuel lines fit onto the metal fuel lines. I’ve tried to tighten clamps, but continues to leak and sometimes needs retightening. I’ve heard this is common on Subarus.
Eric,
I just got a 1998 Mercury Mystique (2.5L V6) I just got as a first car… I have a few problems. Recently when the car started idling it would run for 20ish seconds before dropping rpm and dying. Could it be the IAC valve is choking the engine? Also, how would I identify where oil leaks are coming from? Thanks for the videos, they all help a ton!
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