Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › ETCG Answers Questions Live › ETCG Answers Questions Live #75 (AMA) 10/12/2016
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October 12, 2016 at 1:47 pm #870056
This live show will begin 7pm EST 10/12/2016 on YouTube Live. You can click the link on my YouTube channel to watch. http://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarGuy?spfreload=5
You can post your questions to this thread and I will answer them live on the show. Even if you’re not able to watch the show live, I will be posting the finished video here after the show concludes so you can see your answers.
Hope to see you there!
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October 12, 2016 at 2:30 pm #870057
Hey Eric! Hope all is well. I’m excited for new farmount videos! My question is I have a 1997 Silverado with a 5.7. I recently noticed the exhaust manifold gaskets are shot, from past experiences if you break one of those bolts off, well you have a nightmare on your hands. I’m about 99% sure that the manifold bolts have never been out just by an overall glance they look extremely rusty. Would you suggest replacing the gaskets or would you think it would be fine just leaving it. I thought maybe using a torch would help things but I don’t really have access to one. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you for what you do and stay dirty!
October 12, 2016 at 2:32 pm #870058Hey Eric,
Thanks for the videos! Look forward to them every week.
Anyway, so I’ve been working on organic farms for a number of years – I’m 31 – and I’m considering going to a tech college to get a degree in Diesel Te hnology. I’ve spent some time working on vehicles and machinery and think that it may be something I’d enjoy professionally. As you can imagine working on farms is super tough financially and would love to actually earn a living wage – being poor at my age really sucks. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not all about the money, but its definitely something to consider when approaching a possible new career. I enjoy jobs that are physical and dirty! And also, I can’t do an office!!
Basically I would like your thoughts on persuing something along these lines and if you think there’s a future in it. Again, I’v done stuff like oil changes on trucks/tractors, fuel lines, starter motors, etc. – never done anything like replaced a trans or split a tractor though… You think its a wise choice to get a 1 or 2 year degree?
Thanks! Keep on doing what you do!
October 12, 2016 at 5:40 pm #870061I have a 2016 Accord that’s due for brakes (squealing). Is there a reason to have Honda do it versus myself? Do they do anything that a home mechanic cannot do? Also, in general should I bother checking the rotor flatness or just do the pads since the car is so new? No wheel vibration during braking, btw. Lastly, OEM or aftermarket pads? Thanks, Eric!
October 12, 2016 at 6:20 pm #870066Hey Eric, how are you doing? I’ve got 1 question and one AMA.
I’ve only been driving my 61 LR for a little while, but I suspect it might be guzzling fuel pretty bad. Any tips for finding efficiency problems in old carbureted engines? I am certain vacuum leaks are not the issue, but I think my engine may be heavily carburized. Exhaust leaks? My understanding is that they can mess with the fuel ratio, and my muffler did look like Swiss cheese until it fell off the other day…. Anyways, any thoughts will be appreciated!AMA. I want to get started making YouTube videos, and I was wondering if you had any tips or guidelines on how you film or edit your videos. I’ve already shot quit a bit of footage while doing stuff on the Land Rover, and produce a couple on YouTube, but you’ve been doing it a lot longer than I have and was wondering if you had any wisdom to pass on.
That might actually make a good ETCG1 video; behind the scenes of how ETCG is produced, and how you built the ETCG Empire in the first place.Anyways, thanks for all the help!
PS, here’s another name for you to try, 🙂 Kaliszewski
October 12, 2016 at 7:08 pm #870067Hey Eric, I have an old 1988 c1500 with a 305 5.0L engine. The issue I am having is there is hesitation from the motor in light throttle to part throttle conditions. It seems that this situation is worse when the engine is cold. It also likes the gasoline. I am getting 13mpg highway driving like an old lady. Things that I have replaced; Brake cylinders and calipers all the way round and new pads and shoes to eliminate my drag issue and they needed replaced, aircleaner, temp sensor, O2 sensor. The motor picked up a little bit with the new O2 sensor but there is still the issue with hesitation at part to light throttle. Any help is appreciated and as always, be safe, have fun and stay dirty!
October 12, 2016 at 8:32 pm #870074Greetings from Utah Eric. Love your shows and all the great info you’ve given us, keep up the good work. I currently drive an 06 Tundra and a 2013 Sonata, both of which have sealed transmissions. What is your take on sealed transmissions and what maintenance tips would you give those of us without a dipstick?
Dirty is as dirty does!October 12, 2016 at 9:29 pm #870077Greetings from Denmark Eric. In Denmark it’s mandatory to have daytime running lights. My car was imported and did not have this feature from the factory. I would like to add it, because I’m tired of turning all the lights all day long. I want to wire a relay to make the low beams come on when the car is running, but also I want them to switch off if I turn on the parking lights from the light switch. I have searched a lot, and read about how 4/5 pins relays work, and quite frankly what’s confusing me is how to make the low beams to turn off when the parking lights is turned on from the light switch. I drive a 96 Mercedes-Benz S320. Any info is appreciated.
October 12, 2016 at 10:52 pm #870080Hey Eric!
I have a 1990 Cadillac 4.5 and it says to use Premium fuel only. I’ve had it for over 3 years and never put premium. Always regular. I’ve also, never noticed anything change in the way it runs and drives. I’ve seen your video about different octane ratings and why they’re different but my question is:
Are there any side effects that would result from using regular where premium is called for. And if so, why haven’t I noticed any?
October 13, 2016 at 12:04 am #870083Hello Eric, I’ve just turned 16 and I’m looking for a good first car. I’m thinking about something that’s mechanically forgiving considering that I haven’t so much as loosened a bolt in my life, although I do have a good general idea of how things work in a car so there’s a bit of flexibility there. However, I’m not looking for an average Civic or Corolla, but instead for something that stands out among a crowd, preferably something that’s also relatively common and easy on the wallet. What would you personally recommend, and do you think I should go for a manual or an automatic transmission?
October 13, 2016 at 2:30 am #870092Hey Eric, a few quick questions for you. 1 I’m shopping around for an engine support bar, I remember you mentioning one in a video but I don’t remember which one it was. Do you have any recommendations for what I should look for? 2 How can you check to see if a timing belt needs to be replaced? The car in question is past when the manual says it needs to have the belt replaced but it looks new and the owners, my in laws, don’t have clue if it’s ever been replaced.
AMAs Have you ever played World of Warcraft and what is you favorite car (other than Oliver)?
October 13, 2016 at 3:01 am #870093Hi Eric!
I have a 94′ Honda Accord SE, I’ve recently had the valve cover gasket and head gasket replaced after discovering oil in the coolant reservoir tank. The car used to have over heating problems. The mechanic that replaced the gaskets had to have the head machined. Ever since I got the car back it seems to run hot. It reaches 3/4 towards hot while driving in 80ish degree weather, and at idle it is 3/4 or sometimes more. This sort of scares me considering I’ve had overheating issues before. Is this something normal after having the head machined? If not what should I be looking at? I also have a IR-thermometer that I can use to see the temps going in and out of the thermostat, and it seems to be opening when the engine get up to temp. What temps should I be looking for at the hoses?
Also the car intermittently revs once or twice at idle when I come to a stop and put it in park.
October 13, 2016 at 3:02 am #870094Will the internet ever get good enough that your voice and video are in sync? I can’t believe that’s not possible in 2016.
October 13, 2016 at 3:08 am #870095Hey Eric. I was wondering is it a good idea to wash the engine bay even if I take the precautions of covering all the sensitive electronics and uses regular water hose instead of a pressure washer.
Thank you and keep up the great work!
October 13, 2016 at 3:09 am #870096Hey Eric, thanks for the videos you do, i have a longer question. I have been trying to trackdown an issue on my fathers truck. 1998 Chevy K1500(5.7 Vortec/4L60E 153000 miles). It feels like intermittent torque converter lock up in 2nd and 3rd gear. It had a P0740(Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction). We replaced the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, as it was bad(resistance was out of spec). After replacement, the check engine light went out, but the symptoms still exist. We also checked the resistance of the wiring harness, it was within spec and isnt shorted out and has no visible damage. Could it be the Transmission Control Module, or potentially a mechanically failing transmission.
Thanks.
October 13, 2016 at 3:09 am #870097Hi Eric – Skip from Delaware – Keep doin it brother!
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