Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › ETCG Answers Questions Live › ETCG Answers Questions Live #73 (AMA) 9/7/2016
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September 7, 2016 at 2:22 pm #867544
This live show will begin 7pm EST 9/7/2016 on YouTube Live. You can click the link on my YouTube channel to watch. https://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarGuy?spfreload=5
You can post your questions to this thread and I will answer them live on the show. Even if you’re not able to watch the show live, I will be posting the finished video here after the show concludes so you can see your answers.
This is the first time I’m doing things this way so we’ll see how things go. If this works out, this is how we’ll do it from here on out.
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September 8, 2016 at 2:44 am #867611
Thanks to everyone for posting questions. I still need to do a little more work to set things up for YouTube Live so I’m rescheduling the show for tomorrow. I will answer your questions then. I apologize for the inconvenience.
To recap, the live show is being moved to 9/8/2016 at 7:00pm EST
Finale note: Some of these questions look a little long. Keep in mind I need to be able to read them on the air. I can’t spend half the show reading the questions. 😉
September 8, 2016 at 2:50 am #867612Hey Eric, Wes G from google. First off thanks for the help in my previous questions with my 05 Accent, it’s helped a lot. Also my wife thought I was insane when I set up that DIY smoke machine, it was great. I recently got four new tires on it and after I noticed an intermittent squealing coming from the driver’s side. I haven’t been able to pinpoint if it’s coming from the front or rear wheel and the sound doesn’t change with wheel speed or whether or not I’m braking. I haven’t had time to do a thorough check but I did a quick visual inspection and didn’t see anything obvious. Any ideas? Thanks. Also what’s your favorite pizza topping?
September 8, 2016 at 6:04 am #867623Hello Eric,
Having watched several of your videos, I managed to:
– changed battery cables and solved the problem of electric blackout when turning ignition on or off (no more static on the car either);
– replace both CV axles;
– replace both upper control arms;However:
– before and after changing the upper control arms, when making left turns and going through a wavy/bumpy road pavement, I hear a bumping noise from the front right passenger side. My initial thought was that the ball joint on the right upper control arm was gone. This is why I went ahead and replaced both arms. Can you think of what the bumping noise can be?
– after changing the upper control arms and CV axles, is wheel alignment recommended?Ask:
– If you have time and desire, can you post a video on how to change the carpet in a car. When driving through rain, I have an impression the carpet is getting damp on both driver side and passenger side. I have floor mats as well. I examined car bottom and there seemed to be no cracks, holes or leaks. When laying a new carpet, should any protective coating, insulation or any other work be done before placing new carpet?Thank you!
IgorSeptember 8, 2016 at 2:18 pm #867657Hi Eric,
I have an 05 AP2 Honda S2000 that I recently purchased about 2 months ago, totally love it! The previous owner claimed that they replaced the stock clutch with a high-performance clutch since it can handle more stress on a track as opposed to the stock clutch. I don’t drive it daily, but I notice that the car has a slightly rough 1st gear engagement when I let off the clutch; this only happens when the car is dead cold and hasn’t been started hours, but it rides perfectly smooth after that one rough engagement. Is it typical for performance clutches to behave this way or should I have it checked out professionally?
Also, what kind of clutch are you putting in the Fairmont to handle the added power?
Thanks in advance!
Attachments:September 8, 2016 at 3:50 pm #867660Hey Eric, my 2009 Suburban (120,000 miles) has been acting up. On rare occasion a loud noise will come from the engine bay. It sounds like a muffled thud and feels like someone lit a small firecracker in the engine bay- much like how you may think a muffled thud would feel. This noise doesn’t happen too often, and the last time it happened was when I started it in a parking lot after doing a bit of shopping (no idea how warm or cold the engine was). Is this noise just from normal wear or is it something I should be concerned about? If so, what’s the problem?
September 8, 2016 at 5:38 pm #867663Can you elaborate on Hall Effect?
It was briefly covered in my performance class, but I haven’t done the electrical class yet and it left me a little confused.
Also, how do you feel about using the vehicles oil life system to decide when to do oil changes vs. just saying hey I’ll do it at x miles?
September 8, 2016 at 5:39 pm #867664Can you elaborate on Hall Effect?
It was briefly covered in my performance class, but I haven’t done the electrical class yet and it left me a little confused.
Also, how do you feel about using the vehicles oil life system to decide when to do oil changes vs. just saying hey I’ll do it at x miles?
September 9, 2016 at 1:25 am #867691Hi Eric!
My reliable POS is a ’90 Honda Prelude SI 2.1, 105k on the odo. Other than rust, it’s actually not a POS, and until now (luckily) I have not had a check engine light.
I am getting a Code 43 “Fuel Delivery System” and just about every forum I’ve read elsewhere, everyone has their own differing opinions on what it could be, and just leaves me even more confused. Car runs just fine like there’s nothing wrong at all. Tried d/c the battery to clear the computer, no effect. The only work I’ve recently done is a new flex pipe and did not mess with the 02 sensor at all. Whatcha think?
Last but certainly not least, I’ve been watching you since the beginning. I bought this car because of you. It was a 10 year unloved garage-sitter, and you helped me rediscover my love for wrenching on cars and getting this old Honda running like new. So from the bottom of my heart, I thank you! -Ryan S
September 9, 2016 at 2:31 am #867702Hi eric. i’m working on my daughters 93 honda civic dx 1.5L and both a/c lines are leaking out of the schrader valve on the high side and low side ports can i replace just the valves or does both lines have to be replaced ? i do have a manifold gauge set and do now how to use it ha ha. just don’t know if there can be fixed by replaceing the valves or the lines…..wondering if i’m gonna have a situation like you did in barbra’s van haha. thank you for all you do. stay safe have fun and stay dirty.
September 9, 2016 at 3:02 am #867704What is the best way to get all of the old coolant out of an engine. the vehicle i’m doing a coolant flush on is a 1993 f150 with the 300 inline six cylinder
September 9, 2016 at 3:09 am #867705YOYOYO, hello Eric, old time fan, i have a 1988 mercedes 300e as a fun car to drive around on weekends, i’ve from parents and i had minor issues with it , i think these are bullet proof cars, what do you think about older mercedes knowing that the newer ones are complete junk. love your show and stay dirty my friend:D
September 9, 2016 at 3:11 am #867706Eric, I am a high schooler and sometimes (maybe once or twice a week) our bus 2008 IC CE300 (MaxxForce engine, about 80k miles) will start shutting down/lose power, such as the if she doesent baby the accelerator pedal, the engine will stall, or sometimes my driver will have it nearly floored and it will only go about 20/30 mph… on the road and we have to pull over, shut it down, and restart the bus, my bus driver has asked me to hunt around for answers considering that the bus company says its fine. No check lights at all, any help is appriciated
Thanks
September 9, 2016 at 3:15 am #867708Eric, I am a high schooler and sometimes (maybe once or twice a week) our bus 2008 IC CE300 (MaxxForce engine, about 80k miles) will start shutting down/lose power, such as the if she doesent baby the accelerator pedal, the engine will stall, or sometimes my driver will have it nearly floored and it will only go about 20/30 mph… on the road and we have to pull over, shut it down, and restart the bus, my bus driver has asked me to hunt around for answers considering that the bus company says its fine. No check lights at all, any help is appriciated
Thanks
-AlexSeptember 9, 2016 at 3:21 am #867709Hey Eric, I have a 2006 Chevy Impala PPV with the 3.9 and it needs a new rear sub frame due to rust. I have fixed all the other rust on the car such as rockers and so on. I can’t seem to find a new rear sub frame anywhere, do you have any ideas on where to look? And the other thing do you have any tricks on getting off stuck lug nuts, they seem to be a weird size and i cant fully get the socket on without hammering it onto the lug when i hit it with the air hammer it just striped out it is a very soft mettle almost plastic feeling.
September 9, 2016 at 3:22 am #867710I have a 04 GMC Sierra 1500. Here’s the problem: My instrument cluster has gone out completely. Took it to a cluster repair shop, they replaced the gauges ect on the cluster. Worked great for 2 months. Now its no longer working yet again and now there is a parasitic draw that seems to be coming from the cluster itself. So here is my question: Should I just go ahead and buy a new instrument cluster and replace it myself (save some dough and pray it works) or take it to a mechanic and have them diagnose/repair/replace? How much would i be expecting to pay for a mechanic to diagnose and fix?
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