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In the video, you mentioned a bidirectional scan tool. Is there a bidrectional scan tool that you would recomend for 96-00 Civics?
Thanks
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=86927]In the video, you mentioned a bidirectional scan tool. Is there a bidrectional scan tool that you would recomend for 96-00 Civics?
Thanks[/quote]
Since those years are OBDII, most scanners sold these days should be able to perform that function. Just look for ‘live data’ capabilities.
My former DD (a DSM) had a pressure gauge at the fuel filter and I would watch it go to zero. This took 15 to 30 minutes. Anyway, never any starting issues. So, not saying you are wrong, vehicles vary, but this surprised me.
[quote=”barneyb” post=88120]My former DD (a DSM) had a pressure gauge at the fuel filter and I would watch it go to zero. This took 15 to 30 minutes. Anyway, never any starting issues. So, not saying you are wrong, vehicles vary, but this surprised me.[/quote]
Thanks for your input, and yes, vehicles do vary. I made this video with a fuel pump engineer.
I watched your video and it is an excellent one (all your videos are excellent). However, I still have a problem believing a bad check valve would produce a starting problem like stated in the video unless air is somehow getting into the line. Otherwise the line is full and all the pump has to do is pressurize it. I don’t know how compressible gasoline is but I think a reasonable assumption is – not much. So, I speculate the pump would spin up in a second or so and you’d be golden.
I changed the DSM’s fuel filter at 100K, cut it open and examined the pleats. There was more that an yard of paper in that little filter. Down in the folds were little particles of steel. I don’t know where these came from, maybe hammering the dispenser nozzle into the filler at the gas station. Just one of these particles stuck in the ball seat would cause a leak.
You are correct, air does get in the line because of the drain back caused by a bad check valve. I have seen this type of failure many times and it does cause extended crank times as a result of an empty fuel line needing to be filled before fuel reaches the injectors. As for the metal in the filter. It’s likely from the fuel pump itself. It is after all a metal component that does wear over time. You can clearly see that in the veins of the pump in the video above.
I don’t doubt you have encountered this many times but then aren’t you saying that there is also a leaky fuel injector. With the inlet of the pump submerged in fuel there isn’t a source of air there.
Feel free to continue to doubt, but I’m going with my experience and what the fuel pump engineer says in the video. After all, this is what the guy does for a living.
I’m agreeing with you, it is air in the line and replacing the fuel pump WILL fix the delayed start problem. However, after pump replacement, put a gauge on the rail and still see the pressure go to zero. The air has to get in somehow.
Anyway, thanks Eric. 🙂 I enjoyed the discussion and appreciate the time you have given me.
Barney
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