- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by .
-
Topic
-
Hi Eric, [just noticed that this is a suggestion for ERIC THE CAR GUY, not ETCG1 oops!]
Nick from Montreal. I am a follower of your videos this past year. Were there any Canadians at your last meet?
I’d like to know what you think about making a small video on the different tell tale signs to keep an eye out for when doing brake maintenance that may indicate a problem is abrewing, as well as shed light on some brake details questions. In Canada, many will be switching to winter tires in a couple of months and will be taking a close look at their brakes and have to make some tough decisions. Let’s call this BRAKE MAINTENANCE ETCETERA
For example, the different malwear characteristics (i.e. differential/angle gradient wear, colour changes, uneven wear between inner-outer pads on same caliper, poor quality pad materials with pad pieces come off, noise reduction using anti-squeek goo, characteristic differences between pad materials (ceramics v. semi-metallics), also is it allowed to change just one pad if only one of them shows accelerated wear (down to 2mm while the others are doing fine at ~7mm)? Another good question: when are the pads officially seized in their position vs. just tight/functional in their caliper seats/slots. How should one use a metal file to evenly grind a caliper slot or pad end for creating room or is a bench grinder on only the pad ends the safer bet? I use a rotary tool with cylinder sanders on the caliper seats, is that ideal? And please be ever so kind to speak about using synthetic grease v. silicone paste (on the slider pins): in your opinion is synthetic grease ok? Because I get the feeling that it’s silicone paste way or the highway.
Lastly, concerning matching stock pads with stock rotors, what’s more important- stock pads over stock rotors? or vice versa. Also the juicy details of when is it necessary to replace the rotors if they are not warped/not too thin yet have lots of rust on their edges; and how many grooves is needed to consider the rotor garbage? Can I change the rotor and leave old pads with good wear left if the old pads are still perfectly flat? What about if the old pads are slightly grooved in some lanes due to the old rotor grooves, must I chuck them even if they are almost new in thickness? AND finally, do you believe that changing calipers for preventative maintenance is overly cautious say on a 10 year old honda/CR-V. I’m afraid that the piston will seize within the next two years and cause a trip interruption since my front calipers just did. What are the chances of rear calipers going bad vs. front calipers on Hondas based on your experience.
Basically lots of detailed brake questions that came to mind as I was following your advice on doing brake maintenance. Sorry for the bombardement! Oh, and in your last video, you spoke about stainless steel braided brake lines as replacements for hoses. Are you planning on making an installation video for those anytime soon?
Have a nice day at work and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
PS. In Canada, ETCG is officially now as popular as polar bear hugging… it’s exciting and you always leave feeling appreciated and treated kindly. 😉
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.