Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Engine Modifications › Engine upgrades to 97 honda civic dx 1.6l Sohc
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November 12, 2011 at 11:00 am #433806
so i have the regular 1.6l sohc if is there any good upgrades for it and if i wanted to could i change it to vtech?
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November 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #433807
Yes, it is possible to convert the non-VTEC engine to a VTEC one. You’ll have to replace the cylinder head, along with some other parts (I’m not exactly sure of the complete list that needs to get changed/modifed), and there’s some wiring work to be done to complete the conversion.
As far as upgrades goes, what exactly are you trying to use the car for? There’s tons of things that can be done to a Civic to increase it’s performance. Cold-air intakes, headers, high-flow catalytic converters, larger diameter exhaust piping, superchargers, turbochargers, nitrous, the list goes on and on.
Based upon your screen name I’m going to presume that you’ve got a 1997 Civic DX, which I believe is the base model (crank windows, manual steering, maybe no AC) so you’re starting with a fairly blank slate. You could get a VTEC head from another D-series engine (that being the SOHC one) and convert your engine to having VTEC on it, or you could pull your D16 and swap in a B16 from a Civic Si (1.6L DOHC VTEC), or a B18 from an Integra. I’ve also seen the H22 from a Prelude successfully swapped into a Covic chassis, although it’s a tight fit. I can’t give you step by step instructions on how to swap any of those engines, or even the cylinder heads, but the information is available elsewhere on the Internet, you’ll just have to go searching for it.
November 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #433808wanting to increase it enough to get take it to the track and its power steering and it does have ac and yes crank windows and its a 5speed manual.
November 18, 2011 at 11:00 am #433809Yeah, search for “mini me.” That’s what they call a Y7 to Y8 conversion. You would probably notice a good improvement with a professionally ported Y8 head, cam, tune, and intake/exhaust. I would check the compression and leak down on the engine first though. There is no sense starting with a worn out engine.
If the engine is worn out, you might as well think about throwing in a B series engine.
Another option is you can do with either series, B or D, build the engine with forged internals, re-sleeve the engine, and then throw on a turbo and crank up the boost.
November 19, 2011 at 11:00 am #433810I just finished the mini me minus the resistor box for the D15B2 from the forums i have used from http://www.honda-tech.com the mini me a lot of people don’t believe in it but those that do use the D16Z6 head that is it a lil more power than the Y8 that is just from what i read.
What list I was told was the D16Z6 head , and dizzy, the Y8 head gasget ( i used the z6, but was told y8it would raise compression a lil bit)
d16z6 timing belt
d16z6 intake manifold (preferred skunk2 intake)
fuel rail
could upgrade fuel injectors
B18 throttle boddy (or skunk2 68mm )
and cold air intake that it would go from 92whp to 150whp
becareful though a lot of forums say that the D series engines are only good for about 220hpNovember 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433811ok thank you that helps but would the d16z6 head fit on the d16y7?
November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433812It will bolt right up has the same timing and all just use the Y8 gasket when you put the new head on
November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433813The only thing i am not sure is if the bolts are torque to yeild which means that you will go in stages to the desired torque but then at the end turn to an extra 90 degrees or so if it is like this then i would buy new head bolts.
November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433814Another thing to look at is the miles on the engine the cylinder walls if you are going to go through the trouble to pull the head off and replace it I would put new pistons if needed new rings for sure. if the block needs to be trued milled/decked cleaned maybe i would have it done. Also gives you a chance to maybe put a bigger piston in for more compression. I had my crank polished replaced the main and rod bearings. Just a suggestion and there is a oil guide inbetween the 2 and 3 cylinder that needs to be removed on some blocks not all but check the website that i told you earlier for pic by pic instructions. Removing that for the vtec to work. That here locally was roughly about 100 for bore milled/decked and cleaned just to give you a rough estimate but check your local shops. Another way of going is the head having it redone like a port and polish bigger cam in it . I hope i have helped open so light to this if you have any questions keep them coming
November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433815So another question is would i have to have my engine out for them to re-mill it and clean it or can i just tow the car to a shop and they can do it without taking the block out? and since the compression will be higher will i still be able to install this t3/t4 turbo kit i have or now ill have to change it.
November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am #433816OK yes you would have to have it out and you could take it to a shop and have them remove it but that could be pricey if you are turboing the car from my general knowledge is that turbo will actually lower the compression from what i have been taught. but why go this far and not make it right unless you don’t plan on having this car for long get what engine life you can get out of it. Another suggestion is that maybe change the Transmission from your model to a Si transmission it has a short shift. It took me like 3 hours to pull the engine out and tear down. to take to the machine shop
November 21, 2011 at 11:00 am #433817i have alrdy swapped the tranny that was easy but the fact is that i will have this car for a long while hopeing to have it till it dies and i will go ahead and put it out there I have $800 to spend on it that is my budget for 9 months then i will be able to spend more on it.
November 21, 2011 at 11:00 am #433818Ok; I have $100 in having my block milled/bored over/cleaned, New pistons and rings $70 that was hung and re ringed, Crank polished $20, new main and rod bearings $20, new water pump $35, new oil pump $35, (highly reconmend the water pump at least),Purchase price of head was $100 having the head cleaned and redone $200, new timing belt $35 new alternator belt $17, new thermostate $10, new cam seal $10, radiator flushed $20, plug& plug wires $60, valve cover gasket with all the seals $40 having the intake cleaned $25 injectors cleaned $50 New gasket $45 kit for all the misc gaskets. 12hours in the bay at $8 an hour $96 so total for this so far with purchase and parts comes to roughly $868 that was with taxes and all but we have a high tax rate here and i had to pay for a lot of stuff but it was all worth it. If you let me know where abouts you are i don’t care to help get you in the right direction
November 22, 2011 at 11:00 am #433819Keep me informed on how it goes eager to know if you follow through with it.
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