- This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
So my friend swapped his 99 civic dx motor into my 99 civic ex car because i blew a hole in my block. I have some questions and am getting some error codes…first is P0325, which is a knock sensor code. Could this be due to the dx motor not having vtec while my old motor did? should i look further into this problem? I am trying to figure this out so i dont have to buy a $130 knock sensor…Next code is P0505. This is the IACV having problems. I can hear a hiss when my car is on, sounds like a vacuum leak…could this be the IACV gone bad or a leak in the intake manifold gasket?
Some more info…car idles at about 1500 rpm, 1000 at the lowest…fluctuates up and down sometimes.
Also, is the car safe to drive for now with these error codes and how i described it till i can get it fixed?Any help is greatly appreciated!
Edit: sounds like air is leaking from something underneath the intake manifold…any ideas?
Edit 2: when car is cold it runs well but once it warms up the engine knocks around 1500rpm, so right around idle. And when trying to shift gears I have to Rev it past that knocking in order for it to get past that hang up and catch. When this is happening the car will jerk badly when barley tapping the gas or letting go of the gas in any gear.
-
Replies
-
The hissing/vacuum leak you are hearing can be causing the
higher/erratic idle. Try searching for the vacuum leak. see if
these links help you.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Isn’t the IACV different on the D16Y7 vs Y8? 2 vs 3 wire / plunger vs rotary? I think you’ll have to get that straightened out. Its also worth mentioning the fuel maps for VTEC vs non-VTEC are different since the cam profiles are different (even without engaging VTEC). I would get the ECU that matches the engine you swapped in, then you won’t have to change anything.
Vacuum leaks are an issue and should be addressed. As for the knock sensor code, make sure you have things plugged in correctly. Also, you have 2 different engine harnesses as you pointed out. You may need to swap ECU’s in the end but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. In summary, be sure to check and double check all your work to make sure things are connected and installed correctly. The most likely cause of these issues is something that you did during the swap.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Ok so my friend just told me that when he swapped the engine my old pcv valve broke (it was a straight valve). He ended up using the 90degree pcv valve from the engine he put in. We were thinking this may be the problem because the hose might have some tension on it causing a leak. So i ordered a new pcv valve and valve grommet and will install them, hopefully fixing the vacuum leak.
Also, will i still need a new ecu if i kept my old intake manifold and exhaust? I pretty much just changed the block…
If it where me, I would use the block from the d16y7, and the top half of the d16y8. Lot of people spend money converting the d16y7 to y8 that way, and you have all the parts to do it. Called a mini-me swap. The ECU for the y8 and y7 are different. Also, you need to check your wire harness to see if the pins are different. If your going to leave your motor as a y7, you should put the y7 ecu in. But still need to make sure the harness pins are the same.
1. So I have a Y7 block and head with everything else in the engine from a Y8. The problem is that i have a vacuum leak in the intake gasket and am getting cel code p0505, which is the IACV error code. Im thinking its just due to the gasket vacuum leak. I have seen many people use a y8 intake on a y7 but not sure why im getting a vacuum leak at the top of the gasket. I am using a gasket set to fit the y8 engine and manifold, but i believe that the y7 gasket is basically the same.
2. My idle is around 1500 rpm and have an occasional haunting idle. I believe this is from the intake manifold gasket vacuum leak. Am i correct?
3. I will drive my car for about 10 mins with it running smoothly. Once it warms up my idle will act really weird. It will bog at 1600 rpm and wont be able to pass it unless i hit down on the pedal. Shifting has to be done at like 2000 rpm in order to get past the engine bogging. Also while in gear letting go or pressing the pedal with the slightest pressure will cause the car to jerk badly. Its like i can either accelerate or decelerate, but not stay at a constant speed. I can relate it to how it feels in first gear when you are pressing and releasing the pedal at very low rpms.
Please any input will be greatly appreciated!
Was the car running correctly last week, and just started doing this? Or are you just now putting the y8 parts on your y7 and having troulbe?
You should keep this all in one thread. It avoids people keep asking you the same questions over again. I will now need to go over your old threads to see what is going on.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.