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Hi again,
its another issue of my old little 96 Civic MT.
it has been like this since i bought it but i think you guys might know what is going on 🙂
if i start it without warm up for 3-4 minutes, engine tends to stall easily when i stop the car at traffic light. sometimes i can see the rpm drops gradually until it stalls and sometimes it just stall right away. i can start again the engine with ease though but the symtoms (low idling rpm) would stay for a while.if i start the car and let it idle for 3-4 mins, it runs great for the whole day without the problem mentioned above.
is it just normal for old cars? or it can be fixed? if so, which part should i pay attention to? thank you very much!
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Try the tapping the IAC suggested here http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle Also check all the other thins suggested there. And here http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41475-solving-honda-idle-issues-rough-idle
Three possibilities. dirty throttle body, fast idle valve,
IAC.This link will help you.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Another possibility is that someone attempted to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body. If you see the grey plastic seal broken over the screw, this is likely the case. This can really mess up the base idle and cause problems similar to what you describe. If that’s the case, you’ll have to reset the idle to factory spec following the factory procedure. The procedure is pretty much unplug the IAC and set the idle to 700rpm. That said, those years of Civic did have issues with the IAC valves. You might try the ‘tap’ test as was suggested to see if that’s an issue first.
Keep us posted.
Thank you all for the suggestions and i will definitely take a look at all the areas mentioned.
i just took a look on the service manual about adjusting the idle speed. i found that in step 5, the correct rpm should be 450 (+- 50). is it correct? at 450 rpm the car should shake like hell.
Thanks for advises!
It should be 450 without IAC. IAC then can control it up from there and will keep it at 670…810. It’s all explained in the page you posted. It will shake in that step but what does it matter.
Thanks for clarifying. it looks like it was adjusted as the seal/plastic cover are not there. i will try tapping test first then follow the below procedures. Thank you
Called it. 🙂
If the ‘bible’ says set it to 450, set it to 450. As pointed out that’s without the IAC connected. Once it’s connected back up it should be at normal idle.
Keep us posted.
Hi all,
After i cleaned the Air filter (K&N) it worked a bit better for a while (1-2 months maybe).
Recently the problem came back and it just like something is blocking the air intake and make the engine cant breath.I also found that, when i played with the idle screw, the idle doesnt really constantly at 4xx rpm. While i unplugged the IACV connector, it idled in the range of 440 to 480rpm then after a few seconds it surged to 650 as if the IACV is being connected and dropped back to 4xx after another few seconds. does it mean there is an intake leak? I dont have carb cleaner handy so just spray water arround the intake hoses/mating surfaces but couldnt observe any idle changes.
Moreover, the engine is kind of powerless in low rpm range when it warms. it shakes a few times before really accelerating in low rpm if i press the throttle abit over 1/3.
I checked the plugs and no carbon deposit and oil . THere are a thin white-grey layer on the tips though.
The bad thing is, while i let the engine started up and idle for a few minutes and do the checking, it idled perfectly at 650rpm with no low fluctuations. Ignition timing checked and correct. Mechanical timing will be checked in the coming days when taking the wheel and belts off. If it is off 1 teeth, will it still idle and act fine sometimes? I havent checked the PCV yet as i dont always go under the car. Would it be the cause of such symptoms? Thanks a lot for your advises.
If the mechanical timing is off then it will effect engine performance. It may not effect the idle however. I would suggest that you reread this article that covers the basics of idle diagnosis as it does have specific information pertaining to your vehicle.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Thanks Eric. I think I gonna recheck the mechanical timing. previously i thought i couldn’t check it without taking off the crankshaft pulley.
actually i did a check on the timing belt few days ago.
the belt tension looked ok.when i moved the camshaft pulley to TDC, the Crankshaft pulley ‘s red mark was pointing to the pointer, means its almost 12degree in advance if i didn’t look at the wrong pointers….
the pointer for ignition timing and mechanical timing should be same one, right?
All you need do is remove the valve cover and the upper timing cover. The WHITE mark is TDC. The engine also rotates counterclockwise so be mindful of that.
Hi Eric,
i found the timing is 1 tooth off on the camshaft pulley. since i have difficulties to remove the lower timing cover (bolts on idler pulley bracket are kinda stuck) , do you have any tips on removing the rubber plug so that i can break loose the tensioner bolt and shift the belt 1 tooth on the camshaft pulley side? my finger cant really grab the plug and flat head screw driver cant reach there either. Thanks a lot for your advise.
Hi all,
I would like to ask how i should align the camshaft pulley. In the manual, it said i should align the TDC marks on the pulley with the head surface. But i found that there are 2 arrows at the back as shown in the below pictures. After some googling, some manuals said the TDC marks should align with the arrows. please advise which way is correct!. thank you very much!
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625251.jpg?w=300
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625171.jpg?w=300
Hi,
timing was correct and i continue to check on every parts than could cause the problem. i found the some EGR ports/passages were clogged and i cleaned it. Also, i found a components on the fuel rail and has a white plastic cover. when i removed the plastic cover, i found a screw on top and it almost dropped out. what is that compnent and whats the screw for? should i tighten it all the way up? i just worry if it was intentionally left in this way. THanks for advise.
Yes, you make sure that both marks line up with the cylinder head when setting timing. If that’s not the issue then I recommend you continue to check the basics as covered here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Most performance issues are caused by basic problems. I suggest you stay away from complicated theories about what the issue is.
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