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Hi i want to rebuild a skoda felicia engi e for my car, im planning to buy one used and putting new crank bearings, seals, rings, gaskets, all that stuff, but i dont know the condition of the cylinder bore, i hear the 1.3 skoda felicia engine uses cylinder liners. Can i simply swap these out for new ones if the old ones are worn out ? Or do i need a press?
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JMHO…
But with something like what your thinking about doing..
You may want to consider seeking out a quality machine shop / engine rebuilder to inspect and /or replace cylinder sleeves if required.i thought i want to rebuild one myself for experience and to learn from my mistakes aswell. i plan to use plastigage and torque wrenches and all specified steps in the owners manual that i have handy of this car
Replacing cylinder liners almost always requires a specialist with the right equipment, it isn’t a DIY job.
Keep in mind, though, that worn liners are usually designed to be rehabilitated by being bored oversize, requiring oversize pistons and rings, as long as the original liners aren’t worn beyond their maximum oversize limit.
Measuring cylinder bores for wear and condition requires a specialized bore gauge and a bit of experience to produce accurate results. In short, every bore should be measured near the top, at the mid-stroke point, and near the bottom. Two measurements are made at each location; one in-line with the piston pin, and one at 90 degrees to the piston pin. A total of 6 different measurements for every cylinder.
In general, you’ll find that worn bores will be out of round in a typical manner: they will be egg-shaped when looking down at them, and barrel-shaped when you imagine looking at them from the side.
oh thanks for the reply, if i plan to build it i think i will leave the parts of the machining of liners to a machine shop and the rest of the parts i do them myself, can i find oversize pistons and rings online easily and where if you know a good website ?
Rebuilding your very first engine can be an extremely satisfying and rewarding experience, both educationally and personally. It could also be one of the most frustrating experiences of your life if you try to do things best left to a specialist. Here’s some salient advice: It this is indeed your very first engine rebuild, don’t set your expectations too high. There is so much to learn about rebuilding an engine, that you literally have to rebuild a bunch before you can reasonably expect years of trouble-free service. You certainly can carefully and methodically replace the engine parts that do not require special tools or a specialist’s experience. Make sure to follow all the instructions and specifications, and don’t take any short cuts on your first few rebuilds. However, all sandblasting, boring, grinding, resurfacing, and pressing should be done by a skilled machinist. Sometimes, depending on application, certain bearings should be installed by the machinist, and cylinder heads should almost always be redone by a machinist. There is a high degree of accuracy (and very expensive shop equipment) required for these tasks that only experience through repetition can grant. Otherwise, everything else can be done by you, and you will get a huge sense of accomplishment from finishing the project. There is plenty to do, even with the machinist doing the things mentioned above. Enjoy.
Not being familiar with the Skoda design I’m probably not much help.
However, back through the 80s I used to do a lot of engine builds and head gaskets on the old Subaru wet sleeve engines. They had removeable cylinder liners. The liners were removed with an odd draw hammer tool with an attachment that expanded inside the liner. The liners sat on copper crush gaskets of varying thicknesses and each liner had to protrude so many thousandths of an inch above the block surface.
Most liners came out without too much trouble. Some were corroded in and it took an Act of God to get them out.
I don’t know if Skoda is made in this manner or not.It was a crap design. Apparently no one ever gave consideration to what would happen to soft copper after repeated head bolt torquings which were recommended every 15k miles. Eventually the cylinder liners would squash down to block surface height and the head gaskets would give up when the sun came up in the morning.
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