Engine rattle accord 99 f20b with sound clip

[The Leprechaun]

Hi all.
ive got this car with 114k kms on it and it now has nearly 180k kms.
its always serviced and have been using 5 30 fs but recently changed to 10 40 synthetic.
car runs perfect no bogging etc.
but the rattle is driving me nuts.
its only heard when you rev the car up and happens just before the peak of the rev on idle.
its deffinatly under the rocercover because when i remove the oil filler cap the sounds gets muffled,but it could be just getting drowned out by blow by.

when driving the car its most noticable in 1st and 2nd.
if i drive in 1st at a stedy 2000rpm and lightly touch the throttle it rattles.
if i drive in 2nd its the same.
when driving it seems to rattle just before the gear change.
more noticable at cold startup,and also the cold start up is a bit more rough than normal.
when car gets to operating temp its not as bad but can still be heard especially in alleyways where the sound echoes.

ive never done a valve adjustment on it as i find it hard to get time.

hope sombody can point me in the right direction.
thanks

edit
i have to change the file format.
hopfully i will be able too

Topic

[college man]

keep us posted on your progress.

[ridinred24]

Glad your were able to get that bolt out! Which one is that?

[The Leprechaun]

Crank pulley bolt .
The lord was looking down upon me hence it came out.I was gonna cry tho when it snapped.
Honda want 25 euro plus vat for itbut I don’t mind,considering

[ridinred24]

I probably would have sharted myself too! Any chance that was part of the noise? Do they keyways look ok?

[The Leprechaun]

Na keyway is fine
the belt had a lot of slack
and I know how as I bought Ericsson videos on the b series belt and accord

I tightened the auto tensioner bolt with slack on the front side.
I’ve learned now to turn the crank pulley until the belt is tight then pinch the tensioner bolt
I’ve also learned there is an
updated tensioner which I have
il post part numbers for others Best

won’t have the pulley bolt till Wednesday id say so post back then

[The Leprechaun]

Update.
Tensioner seems fine .
Put the belts back on and the rattle is still there.

Ill have to get a telescope and check everything.
As this is my first Honda I’m not very familiar with known issues,so I’m guessing by other peoples problems it could be lmas ,worn rockers ,rod knock or a loose inner exhaust pipe rattle.

Anybody else got any ideas?

[ridinred24]

Well at least you now know your tbelt is on right 🙂

The a pipe inner pipe rattle is common on the b series motors, it could be the issue on yours as well. Try to have someone snap the throttle for ya when your underneath the car so you can try to listen closely. The b series factory manifold/a pipes are really pricey and we usually just sell a quality, aftermarket header to install. They are typically a lot cheaper

[The Leprechaun]

Thanks ill try it tomoro .

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’m still thinking timing belt tension. If the tension isn’t set properly the belt slack will cause all kinds of engine noise. If you’re sure that the belt is properly tensioned then perhaps you have worn out internals. You might be able to verify this by checking the oil pressure. If it’s fluctuating a great deal and coincides with the engine noise then that’s probably the case. If that’s the case then I would recommend replacement of the engine rather than rebuilding. Keep us posted.

[The Leprechaun]

Hi Eric.
I think il try doing the belt again.
It has an auto tensioner so i cant reallt set the tension,but maybe im missing a bit of tension by being maybe 1 tooth loose somwhere.but then again everything lines up

i see in your video you make a refetence to chunking.
I cant get the belt tight between the cams without going out by one tooth.

Its the dame between the ex cam and crank but its not real loose.

Im hoping i havent got a worn engine as im noy in a position to change.
Thanks

[The Leprechaun]

Quick update.
Im waiting on a vacuum gauge and oil pressure gauge.
I think il get the Kaisenspeed modified tensioner then if the gauges show all c
Clear

[ridinred24]

I know whatcha mean having a bit of slack between the two gears. Sometimes I offset the gears ever so slightly, put the belt on then move the gears to tdc, this takes up the slack. Keep us posted.

[The Leprechaun]

small update.
fitted the vacuum gauge today and it sits at 23inhg steady.
when i drive the car it goes towards 0 vacuum even at very light throttle.
if i floor it the red warning light comes on.

would it be normal to loose that much vacuum on light throttle?

il try record a video next time as im waiting for an oil pressure sandwich plate.
B)

[The Leprechaun]

Hi all.
After eventually getting the oil pressure gauge fitted the pressure is at 1 bar at idle and up to 6 bar on acceleration and looks like the relief valve cuts in there.
The rattle has no effect on the oil pressure whic
h im happy about anyway.

The onlt thing i notice is the vacuum gauge bo uncesat 6000rpm held strady.
Im wondering is this caused by a slack timing belt which is causing aslight overlap between cams?

It has no effect at low revs where i can make the rattle happen.

[The Leprechaun]

back again.
fina;ly got the ks tensioner and fitted new belt ,no more slack but the rattle is still there.

its summer time here and the rattle is not as bad so im guessing its a clearence issue with higher temperatures.

on the upside drivability and mpg has improved banana:

[Author]

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