Engine rattle accord 99 f20b with sound clip

[The Leprechaun]

Hi all.
ive got this car with 114k kms on it and it now has nearly 180k kms.
its always serviced and have been using 5 30 fs but recently changed to 10 40 synthetic.
car runs perfect no bogging etc.
but the rattle is driving me nuts.
its only heard when you rev the car up and happens just before the peak of the rev on idle.
its deffinatly under the rocercover because when i remove the oil filler cap the sounds gets muffled,but it could be just getting drowned out by blow by.

when driving the car its most noticable in 1st and 2nd.
if i drive in 1st at a stedy 2000rpm and lightly touch the throttle it rattles.
if i drive in 2nd its the same.
when driving it seems to rattle just before the gear change.
more noticable at cold startup,and also the cold start up is a bit more rough than normal.
when car gets to operating temp its not as bad but can still be heard especially in alleyways where the sound echoes.

ive never done a valve adjustment on it as i find it hard to get time.

hope sombody can point me in the right direction.
thanks

edit
i have to change the file format.
hopfully i will be able too

Topic

[The Leprechaun]

thanks.
theres no sticker to tell the specs.

is there any honda techs here that may be able to get the specs for me?

ive read that honda valves get tighter over time and that would explain the tight intakes.
but not the exhausts.
anyone?

[ridinred24]

I wouldnt say they get tighter on hondas. More often than not I find loose valves when doing service work. You wont hear tight valves either 🙂

[The Leprechaun]

this is where it says they get tighter over time

quote

[MBA – 2000/8/11] Valves get tight with age, rather than loose because as they wear into the seats, they get closer to the rocker causing the free play to diminish. There has been a lot of speculation and discussion about how often they need to be adjusted, and in fact Honda has changed the recommendation in the book from 15 k to 30 k in the new models, but the older models have had no update bulletin or service news. I still do mine every 15k, and I still recommend it to my customers.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Maintenance/valves.htm

i get more lost every time i look into this :S

[EricTheCarGuy]

I need to put you back on the path. First, go back to the oil that’s recommended for the vehicle. If not you can starve the top end during cold start up. Also, in my experience valves do NOT get tight over time. I think the specs are .20 and .25mm +/-.02mm intake and exhaust respectively. One thing to check with DOHC engines is for timing belt slack. If you didn’t set the tension correctly and it’s too loose then it can cause a vibration. Also if the balance shafts are not in time correctly it can cause a vibration in the engine from 2000-2500rpm. Outside of that most of the issues that effect Honda idle problems can be found here.

Honda idle issues rough idle:

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41475-solving-honda-idle-issues-rough-idle

Honda idle issues fluctuating idle:

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle

[The Leprechaun]

its 10 40 oil which is correct for our climate.
Il take off the rocercover again and il show the slack on the belt,it has an auto tevsioner and its the tightest I could get it even though I could slide the belt off the pulleys no problem.
The balence belt is ok.
Il get the vid up tomoro.

Thanks

[The Leprechaun]

Eventually I got around to posting another video.
Seemingly the auto tensioner can go out on these pretty easy
Have a look here
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SrhrLEcSv04&feature=youtube_gdata_player&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DSrhrLEcSv04%26feature%3Dyoutube_gdata_player

[college man]

definitely some play there.tensioner replacement next.

[ridinred24]

I would say your belt is definately too loose. What kind of auto tensioner does it have? If its hydraulic then take it out and try to compress it by pushing down on a hard surface. It shouldnt budge.

The noise doesnt seem to correspond with the belt flapping but its a good place to start from here.

[The Leprechaun]

Thanks for the replies.
Its a Honda tensioner with a threaded bar inside the casing with a spring and oil in it.

Would a loose belt cause the distributor to rattle?

[college man]

The way that belt was loose.That vibration can transfer.

[ridinred24]

[quote=”The Leprechaun” post=50527]Thanks for the replies.
Its a Honda tensioner with a threaded bar inside the casing with a spring and oil in it.

Would a loose belt cause the distributor to rattle?[/quote]

Yes 🙂

[The Leprechaun]

Ok I’m gonna take it apart again and redo the belt .
Ill post results again thanks lads

[The Leprechaun]

I’m gonna set up the belt again and check the tensioner and do the valve lash too.
Hope my fabricated tool works

Attachments:

• 2013-02-2015.48.43.jpg

[ridinred24]

That is definately a McGuyver type tool but usually those work the best! Keep us posted

[The Leprechaun]

Okay .
I got the valve lash set to in for.006 ex.008
Car runs much smoother and drives nicer.all the intake had to be adjusted from.003
Some exhausts were a bit tight.

So I went for a spin and the rattle easy still there so I went for to start the timing belt and met a some trouble
.
I’m waiting for a new bolt from Honda and an oil pump seal as its leaking.

So not finished yet and probably won’t have parts till next week nights

Attachments:

• 2013-02-2209.07.08.jpg

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