- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 3 months ago by
.
- Topic
Recently my 1995 Toyota Camry US 5S-FE (4-cylinder, 2.2 liter, 16-valve) engine always can start when cold. After it runs to normal operating temperature, park and turn off engine for a few minutes, it won’t start the engine regardless how long the starter cranks, until at least 40 minutes later when everything cools down then it will start again. The car drives smooth, good responses, idle RPM is stable. Car will keep running for long miles smoothly if don’t shut off the engine. just won’t start when hot, but will start when cool. It’s been 2 months over and over tested that, in the “warmed up” condition, loose the fuel valve top of the fuel filter, a little gasoline spill, put the ignition key to “ON” position, don’t see any more gas spill. checked EFI and Circuit Opening relays work. Don’t know what’s stopping gas delivery in warm temperature after engine shut off? Appreciate your advice what to look!
- Replies
you will have to excuse Me when you use the word gas do you mean petrol?have you had a conversation to gas and if yes they have a diaphragm that goes hard and needs to be replace. but I know someone who works for Toyota I will ask him today
with not being able to see the engine you need to see if it has a cam sensor fitted I think that’s where the problem lies if it does have One you can test It with a Analogue multimeter not a digital One hope this helps let me know how you got On
When it won’t start. pull the coil wire and check for spark.
You will need some one to crank the engine. If no spark ignition coil
would be suspect.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Thanks everybody’s reply. I drove the car once today for about 15 minutes, after I parked home, and 5 minutes later I tried restart the car and it wouldn’t start. I took a couple plugs out and checked for spark. well, it would not fire spark. I didn’t do anything and waited everything sit there to cool for at least half hour, did the same test again, then it fired sparks again and started the engine. Why wouldn’t it fire spark when engine hot?
I don’t know where the cam sensor is located yet (if it has one). I am checking the service manual and will get back. Thanks so much!
Forgot to mention that, the Camry is 1995, unlike modern ignition coils one for each cylinder; it has a central distributor and delivers high voltage to four spark plugs through a set of wires. Thanks.
Hi! 🙂
I have a feeling that your crank position sensor (or camshaft position sensor in some cars) is faulty.
I know several people that did have this very symptoms, and it always was the crank position sensor.Its function is simple and crucial; it tells the ECU that the engine is spinning and when the ignition should be fired.
So the ECU thinks the engine is not spinning and doesn’t fire the ignition; hence the engine does not start.If it is a crankshaft position sensor it will be located somewhere on the circumference of the freewheel; if it is a camshaft position sensor, it may very well be located inside the distributor.
Have a look at one of Eric’s videos, that shows where it is located in the distributor of an Honda about the same vintage of your Toyota.[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ[/video]
Hope this helps! :cheer:
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
Check your ignition coil in your distributor… These can go bad/crack and cause this issue… This is a known problem..
Here is a good link that talks about it… Note the crack in the pictures near where the coil says TOYOTA
-Karl
Thank you ALL giving great advice, nice video tutorial, and excellent troubleshoot discussion.
I got home late and it is freezing temperature outside in Chicago. I took the distributor cap out and was unable to pull the rotor. Eventually I took out the entire distributor for inspection: there is oil leak inside and crack exactly as described in the link Karl provided. Thank you!The rotor still won’t come off even there’s no screw or clip harden it. I tried using a screw driver to help push it from the inside, but it broke apart. No a big deal. I am thinking to replace to whole distributor. Should I? or just the coil, rotor and cap?
Done exactly that, cleaned the distributor, replaced new ignition coil, rotor, and the cap. Drove the car for business tonight to two places, and did not have no start problem. I’d like to think the issue is resolved. Since the temperature was cold tonight, I’ll keep an eye on it as driving through the week. Thanks everybody’s valuable inputs! DIY is a great experience. Learned a lot! Hope some day I can help others too.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.