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  • #586535
    Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
    Participant

      Hi, I have an engine noise that is getting me nuts, by the simple fact that it doesn’t look to be what it seems…

      Imagine a ticking vale, top the engine oil. I start the engine and hear the ticking… now I just screw lose the oil filter just to get a bit of oil to start going out.. let it drip to a container (so I know how much has dripped) screw it in and out a few times (usually 3 or 4) and the sound goes away… Rev it and all seems ok… no lack of oil pressure in gage when cruising (or at idle)…

      Turn engine off for 5 secs, turn it back on, and there it goes again.. tick, tick, tick, tick (…)

      No oil or water in spark plugs.

      OIL FILTER and OIL itself brand new and up to engine specs.

      How can this be?

    Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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    • #586539
      Joeseph MamaJoeseph Mama
      Participant

        I just solved an engine tick here; there is a specific process you must follow to resolve this issue:

        • Identify the source of the tick. You can do this using a mechanic’s stethoscope, a power balance test (usually), leak-down test or by taking off the valve cover (engine running) and listening for the tick.
        • Perform a Valve Adjustment.
        • If that doesn’t work, then pull the rod for that engine (if CIB (Cam in Block)) and examine/test the lifter. (replace if necessary)
        • If that doesn’t work, pull the camshaft(s) and mic the lobes. If out of spec, replace camshaft.
        • This will solve 99.9% of top end engine ticking. Messing about with the oil or using magical remedies in a can will only address the symptom, not the root cause.

          Based on your complaint, I would venture to guess you might only be going to step #2 on the above checklist.

        #586544
        Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
        Participant

          I’ve seen your reply, and it’s quit helpful.

          I’ve taken the valve cover off, and manually rotating the camshaft revealed no noticeable wearing (quite good looking actually).

          I can’t have the engine running for long because there are 2 major holes that flood the bottom of the camshaft itself they are 0.5mm (1 inch) and cannot be covered.. without the valve cover they look like 2 garden hoses.

          I’ll try to post a video were I can show everything in detail, as around 2000rpm to 3500rpm there is a sound that seems something not fastened like it should.

          (I’m just waiting for an ignition coil to arrive because one went bad a couple of days ago and having just 3 cylinders working gives «usual» noises that have nothing to do with the issue)

          I have attached a photo of the engine top without the cover so you can «see» what I’m seeing…

          Attachments:
          #586545
          Joeseph MamaJoeseph Mama
          Participant

            Hmmm…

            Here is one article specifically addressing Single Overhead Cam (SOHC) engine tick:

            You have to take into consideration ‘tappets’ or ‘hydaulic lifters’… which I suspect may be the culprit in your situation.

            #586546
            Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
            Participant

              Thank you that is a great article and just by having a quick read does look like so…

              In the article I’ve read that if «lifter gets dirt or air inside of it, gets stuck open, or seizes closed» it emits plenty of noise, so considering that I have a jammed lifter etc… What could be that cause of it, since I keep (or try to) everything running in proper condition, could it be that it just worn out?

              Here is cut view of the engine:

              Attachments:
              #586557
              Joeseph MamaJoeseph Mama
              Participant

                What could be that cause of it, since I keep (or try to) everything running in proper condition, could it be that it just worn out?

                I wouldn’t worry about it too much… lifter failure is probably one of the more common occurrences in the realm of engine repair. Even with the best maintenance, it is of course a mechanical component and mechanical components can fail at anytime for any reason.

                Q: What is the year/make/model/milage of ye’ vehicle?

                Identify the problem lifter and replace. Problem solved. Plus you have the experience if this should occur in the future with another lifter.

                • How to Inspect a Hydraulic Valve Lifter
                • Hydraulic Lifter Bleed Down
                • Lifter Replacement
                #586566
                Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
                Participant

                  Q: What is the year/make/model/milage of ye’ vehicle?

                  Well it’s nothing you’ve seen in the US (the car was never sold there), the engine itself is quite simple to work and maintain.

                  Year: 94
                  Make: Fiat
                  Model: MK1 (176) ELX 75
                  Mileage: 160.000 Kms (+- 100.000 Miles)

                  The only thing that has been changed in the engine were worn components (belt adjustment bearing, alternator (new) and starter (new brushes), and a coil pack for the 1st time is going in there soon)

                  Never gave a single issue, and drives-me everywhere (literally)

                  Real picture of him…

                  #586570
                  Joeseph MamaJoeseph Mama
                  Participant

                    based on the age and mileage of the vehicle, you are of course eligible for these common types of engine repair.

                    #586572
                    Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
                    Participant

                      You were of great help, thanks for the advice B) , I will look into this and get back as soon as I can, my main problem is not having a torque wrench (I really do like to fasten everything to spec.) to do the job sooner. :dry:

                      #586819
                      EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                      Keymaster

                        The only thing I’ll add here is that it looks like the engine has signs of extended oil changes. I’m getting this by the color and thickness of the buildup in the picture. This can cause issues with things like lifters. That said, you often have to replace a cam at the same time as the lifters to avoid wear issues. If however the engine has other issues in addition to the noise like say perhaps stuck oil control rings, or blocked oil return passages in the pistons, you might be in for a little more work if not replacement of the engine by the time you’re done. Given that, you might reconsider your investments in a cam and lifters and just run it till it dies. Not having heard the noise there is little I can offer outside of speculation. Forgive me if I’m leaning toward a worst case scenario.

                        More info on engine noises in this article I wrote.

                        http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

                        Good luck and keep us posted.

                        #586990
                        Fábio D.A. DiasFábio D.A. Dias
                        Participant

                          Hi Eric, unfortunately this car hasn’t been from the start in my hands and I know that it was a bit miss-cared in the passed, even so I wanted to take great care of him as soon as I got my hands in it.

                          I’ve also thought of blocked oil return passages. Just so you know how crazy I am I tough of making a custom mount to the oil filter and put pressurised air trough the output so that it may move something stuck in some place.

                          I personally agree with your view about flushing agents and I really would only put them in there if I was manually turning the engine. I don’t trust corroding agents in a place were should be lubricants.

                          An engine from scrap is cheap.. 250€ +- 300$ gets me one. I see yet to many life in this one.

                          The cam itself is in great shape as to manufactured specifications (I measured the lobes). Thanks to a great help from Ratchet Face I was able to learn even more about the engine and found that it uses shim over bucket.

                          In another forum I read that the taping and vibration noises may be do to a shim being worn out.

                          What are your thoughts about this?

                          I appreciate every perspective not just the brighter side of some of them, if after the simple things have been done, the sound continues I’ll take everything into consideration…

                          Attachments:
                          #587111
                          EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                          Keymaster

                            Yea, it’s quite possible the shims are worn out but given the condition of the engine you may be looking at a failed lifter. Given that it’s not that expensive to replace the engine, why not ignore the problem and replace the engine when you feel like going there. You obviously love the car, why not get a new engine that you can care for yourself instead of trying to fix the neglected one that you have. I find it’s much more expensive to purchase an engine in parts than it is as a unit. That’s just my opinion.

                            Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.

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