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Today I parked the car on an incline and put the parking brake on, then forgot to take it off and drove home… I didn’t hear any screeching, does this mean the parking brake is broken or needs adjusting OR it automatically disengages when you turn on the car?? I know my 96 corolla would screech and wont move, unless you give it gas… but this car actually rolls when in drive as if the parking brakes wasn’t even up…
The parking brake should fully engage in 7-8 clicks and not allow vehicle movement. It does sound like yours need to be adjusted. This usually happens when the brake lining is worn or the self-adjuster may have frozen and therefore not allowed the shoes to adjust over time. This car uses a drum-in-disk system for the parking brake. There is a specific procedure for adjustment that can be found in the service manual. This link may also help.
The rear brakes are disc from what i can see… so your saying there is a brake shoe inside the drum that im not seeing?
Ok well Ill have to change it all when I do the brakes and rotors. I don’t really used the parking brake anyways… lol Thanks
Ok so this morning the Service Engine Soon light came on FML lol. Read the manual and it says it could be the gas tank cover or Emissions related problem…. Got to go get the code checked at the mechanic. I cleaned the gas tank cover and tightened it like 5 clicks. Is it suppose to be 1 click or 3? or ??? The cover just says turn until click… The light should turn off after a few drives according to the manual(didn’t drive much). When I opened the cap I heard a kind of suction noise its got half tank (10galllons).
If you heard a suction when you took off the cap, the code probably wasn’t related to the cap seal or there wouldn’t have been any vacuum there. My personal rule of thumb is at least three clicks, btw. Post what the code is and we’ll go from there.
If that light came on it means a fault has been detected and a code has been set. You’ll need to pull the code to find out the effected system. Your local auto parts store may be able to do this for you. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Keep us posted on your progress.
[quote=”headlessblade” post=139068]Ok so this morning the Service Engine Soon light came on FML lol. Read the manual and it says it could be the gas tank cover or Emissions related problem…. Got to go get the code checked at the mechanic. I cleaned the gas tank cover and tightened it like 5 clicks. Is it suppose to be 1 click or 3? or ??? The cover just says turn until click… The light should turn off after a few drives according to the manual(didn’t drive much). When I opened the cap I heard a kind of suction noise its got half tank (10galllons).[/quote]
It might actually say how to put on you gas cap in your car manual, mine says just do it until it clicks once. I’m guessing the cap has some sort of torque mechanism (like a torque wrench) that won’t allow it to be tightened too tightly, so clicking it a lot of times shouldn’t make it tighter. To me it would make sense that if you clicked it a ton of times really often it would be more likely to wear out sooner.
Mostly I just wanted to add that if you don’t have a code reader, many auto parts stores will loan them to you for free. So if you’re close to one, just stop by and read the code in their parking lot. No need to pay a mechanic for that, but if they do it for free too, then just go to wherever is most convenient.
Edit: I guess I read the comments too fast, Eric already said that you can get the code read at an auto parts store. My bad. 😉The sealing of the gas cap is torque-limited. 1 click or 100, it doesn’t matter. Once it clicks, you’ve (supposedly) sealed the cap properly. Clicking it further doesn’t doesn’t tighten it further.
Thank for all the info. I will get the code tomorrow… hopefully it wont be an expensive fix… but that noise I hear inside the car in the first video could be a exhaust leak causing a problem..? Ill update tomorrow
I have some bad luck. This old guy with his wife side swiped me today. Waited 3 hours for a police report.
ANYWAYS, I got the code for the engine light P011. I just changed the oil last week and the levels are fine and it looks brand new… so possibly? cam something? The light was reset, but came back on literally right after I filled up my tank with 93, WTH… Will go get a through check on the engine next week.
[quote=headlessblade]I have some bad luck. This old guy with his wife side swiped me today. Waited 3 hours for a police report.[/quote]
Ouch… sorry to hear that.ANYWAYS, I got the code for the engine light P011.
You’re missing a digit from the code. It should be P followed by 4 digits. If it is P0011, then there’s a couple of things to look at. The crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, variable valve timing solenoid, and engine coolant temperature sensor. All of these can be tested before replacement.
Will go get a through check on the engine next week.
Of course, if you’re taking it into a shop anyway, then they can diagnose the cause of the code for you.
Yes it’s P0011. I’ll look up the testing procedures, maybe I can do some at home… I have a multimeter but possible will need a live data ODB tool to test it?
[quote=headlessblade]Yes it’s P0011. I’ll look up the testing procedures, maybe I can do some at home… I have a multimeter but possible will need a live data ODB tool to test it?[/quote]
No, you don’t need a scan tool, and can test them all with a multimeter. The most complicated test is the engine coolant temperature sensor, since you need to remove it from the engine and place it in hot water while testing the resistance with the meter. The VVT solenoid can also be somewhat involved as it needs to be removed as well so that it can be cleaned out prior to testing. The easiest to test are the position sensors. If you have any difficulty finding the testing procedures write back and we can try to help you out.
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