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Ok i just did plugs and wires on my 00 regal and it needed it very much one plug was missing the pieces one plug wire was broke and whoever did it befor me switched two cylinders so it had 4 out of the 6 cylinders not working right plus a clogged cat but i got it all fixed put new tires on it and went out this moring to see what it could do went to try buring the tires off and it kind of chocked out for a sec or two then it came out of it then took it to a straight away and got on it and again like chocked out into the end of 1st beggining of 2nd and proceded to stall out got it started again came back towards were i live and had to stop and rev it up some to get it to run right again stalled twice and is jerky off of a dead stop into kind of hard acceleration i need help please. Had codes ran low volt on maf sensor bad o2 sensors and had the misfires but i fixed the misfires as stated in the start of this thread. A friend suggested that it might be cecause it is wet today plus i had myy trac control on.
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Sounds like this car is going to need some TLC. I’d start mostly with visual and basic maintenance
1) Check all your wires to the battery/alternator and anywhere in between. Look for bare wire and loose connections
2) air and fuel filter?
3) double/triple check your plugs are all put in the correct coils and that the plug themselves were gapped right. Sounds like you have a 3800II which is 0.60″
What is the cylinder number pattern? like standing at the front of the car what is the cylinder in the front left then the middle the the one on the right and so on and so forth?
Your odd cylinders are on the front by the radiator/even in the back. The ignition coil is ordered less simple.
I have a similar engine, and I feel its extra necessary to check the wiring if you left it the factor way with the wires passing between the valve cover and the front dog-arm strut. It’s super easy to mix up the wires in my opinion. The car won’t always throw a code, but sometimes it will.
Last thought, did you make sure you purchased the correct temperature range plug? I don’t have my manual in front of me.
Yes the supercharged is the same firing order as the naturally aspirated.
none regarding firing order. Plenty regarding belts routing, air intake and transmission, don’t worry about that though.
I forgot to mention to look for a vacuum leak. Look at your rubber hoses/vacuum lines to make sure they aren’t letting extra air in. If you can get it running at idle, you can get a propane tank (small one) and open the valve (without a flame) and point it near all the vacuum hoses. Eric does this with carburetor fluid…I’m not that brave.
If your ABS light is not on, your traction control is fine and it shouldn’t affect the engine anyway
Ok thanks kingmeander i do know for a fact i need to change my fuel filter and have a code for my maf sensor also i have a bad battery and have heard since the tranny is electronicly controled that having a bad bat or alt can after shifting
i got the plugs at orilleys they ran my info in the comp and handed me the plugs they are auto light copper core not sure on the gap they said they were pre gapped so idk
My main concern is when i stop at a stop sign then take off with slightly harder than normal acceleration my car jerks i have had a few people say tranny or tc appyling brake pressure, or bad motor/tranny mounts the fluid is a tiny bit low and is light brown (i know should be red) but am afraid to do a tranny flush as to it has 200k and not sure if previous owner did it ever my thoughts probably not….
Personally, I’m not a fan of autolite…they didn’t do so hot in my van. It’s just me, as long as the temp range is ok, you should be fine.
Pre-gapped or not, always better to double check. That said, a minor bit off won’t cause the issues you’re having…a lot off is another story.
To check your alternator, just put a voltmeter on the battery; you should be getting somewhere around 13.6. The alternator/regulator is fairly robust on these engines, so that shouldn’t be your issue unless you have loose wiring.
To quickly check your mounts, have someone shift through the park, reverse, neutral and drive while you watch the engine. If it appears to jump more than an inch or two, you probably have a bad mount. Your tranny mount is behind your driver tire, the motor mount is behind the passenger tire by your oil filter. Check these with a large screwdriver by prying between the rubber and the plates While you are driving how does it shift? If it shifts fine normally between gears 1-4, then you probably are ok (I’m not a tranny guy though!).
Do you have other noises? Like I mentioned earlier, you should do a thorough visual inspection to look at your hoses/belts and look for leaks.
i may have a small tranny leak not for sure need to lok more into it but no sometimes starting out in 1st dont seem like its grabbing the gear the greatist but shifts normally when i drive tro work
Here is the video I was looking for earlier. Maybe there will be some useful information for you.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/V43OTGPxYc0?feature=player_embedded
I think you would have been better with AC delco plugs. That said, look for leaks in the air tube that runs from the MAF sensor to the engine. Any holes here can cause the issues you describe, including the MAF code. More info on solving performance problems here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Good luck and keep us posted.
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