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So I have a problem. It’s kinda complicated but Imma try to explain it as best as I can. So about 8-9 months ago my 1994 Lude was having problems all cause of a bad ground after that was fixed she started to act more weird, she’s un- drivable over 10 miles cause I’m afraid she’ll stall and I’ll tell you why. On a cold start she’ll idle fine, nice and smooth no problems, come operating temperature she’ll get worse and worse in closed loop. The idle is very bad, but only in stops. She’ll idle better but still rough in Park or Neutral. In drive or reverse she’ll idle like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N38W_LX_yck If I stop quickly like at a stop sign or a parking space the idle will get low as hell and stall. One day I was off work going home and I hit a speed bump, I noticed on the way home my idle was smooth, really smooth. I was like huh, that’s weird. I got home, forgot to put up my windows, so I turned the key until my dash lights came on and I noticed no battery light. Went to check it out I found the electrical connection that connects to the alternator was unplugged. Everytime It’s unplugged the car runs better and idles better and doesn’t do what that video shows, so the battery not charging= no crappy idle. I got a voltmeter and checked voltage under load, Idk the exact numbers but here’s an example. Let’s say the voltage was a 11.4 under load and my engine (H23A1) is running like crap, then out of no where the volt reads at 12.4 and the idle changes, engine looks like it’s running better then it goes back to 11.4 and running like crap, also the a/c was on when I did this test the fans turned off as the voltage dropped then came back on, aren’t they supposed to stay on the whole time the a/c is on? Then I said ok, It’s my alternator. Got the best belt and Alternator I could get at O’Rilleys. Put it on and same symptoms. Didn’t get better or worse. The alternator was good. But then there’s this, 8-9 months ago I got a CEL for Code 20 Electrical Load Detector (ELD). It came on while driving and never came back after I turned the car off and on again. I checked the code with a paper clip, never has come back on since tho. I heard it’s in the fuse box. So I’m wondering if that is my problem? Maybe a EGR problem? What do you guys think? Thanks.
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Sounds a bit as if you are having an intermittent short circuit somewhere (faulty solenoid?) and when this happens it puts a lot of load on your alternator and brings your idle down.
The first thing to check would have been the battery. If you have a bad battery the alternator will not be able to keep up and it will effect all other electrical systems, including the alternator. ELD’s can be an issue from time to time, but I would put it at the bottom of the list for now. Make sure the battery and it’s connections are good. Then follow the steps in the ‘Idle Problems’ article College man posted. I’ve written extensively about Honda idle issues. If you still strike out after all that, then we can talk about the ELD.
Keep us posted.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=89564]The first thing to check would have been the battery. If you have a bad battery the alternator will not be able to keep up and it will effect all other electrical systems, including the alternator. ELD’s can be an issue from time to time, but I would put it at the bottom of the list for now. Make sure the battery and it’s connections are good. Then follow the steps in the ‘Idle Problems’ article College man posted. I’ve written extensively about Honda idle issues. If you still strike out after all that, then we can talk about the ELD.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Battery is new, replaced in November because the old one died. No change. I cleaned the throttle body, adjusted the valves accordingly, new OEM PCV valve, Bought a Spill free funnel and bled the cooling system because my car was overheating (No longer overheats), My IACV and FITV working like they should (tested them), but my car idles way better when the connection to the alternator is unplugged. That should be a clue right? I’m guessing it is electrical? Can a ELD indeed cause this, Eric? I did get a CEL for code 20 ELD.
If you think it’s the ELD this might help.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/10uhoz4rjyb3r3z/Honda%20ELD%20Testing.pdf
Be sure to also check the battery connections. Your battery may be new, but if there’s an issue with the connections it can be just like having a bad battery.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/10uhoz4rjyb3r3z/Honda%20ELD%20Testing.pdf
Keep us posted
Eric, I checked my battery connections and they are clean and tight. I also tried out another fuse box from my friends Prelude, we have the same car, Still same symptoms. Anyways, I remember a few months back I had a problem with my 1994 Prelude. The tachometer went crazy, me knowing nothing about cars got a “mechanic” that lives in front of my house. He said it was my TPS, okay we went to the junkyard and got a TPS off a automatic F22A1 1992 Accord. He put it on and I told him to check my ignition timing while he was there, Idk what he did but he retarded my timing so bad the car didn’t start after. He left and my Lude was just sitting there. My dad called his mechanic. He fixed my timing and got the car started. After much reading and browsing my problem was being caused by a loose ground wire under the thermostat housing. Then came this problem I am speaking about. The problem wasn’t there before the TPS was changed. I unplugged my TPS today while the car was at operating temp and the idle smoothed out and no problems or stalling. So, Eric, you think I should change the TPS with the old one I had on there?
The TPS likely has nothing to do with it. Honda TPS’s don’t often have issues unless people start messing with them. Although in your case someone has. Also, just adjusting the timing willy nilly is never a good idea as you have found out. You have to follow a procedure to set the timing correctly.
Has someone attempted to adjust the idle? If so, this can also cause issues. Just for the heck of it, you might check the ignition switch. These are known problems on Hondas and can sometimes cause electrical issues. Here’s a video on that.
As for idle problems and setting the idle, I cover that in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Please keep us posted.
I will have a professional set my ignition timing and re-adjust my tension in the near future, anyways I swapped out the TPS for the one that was originally on, and my idle did get better, but still rough at times but not as before. I heard the voltage from the red wire that goes to the ECU needs to read at 0.50 closed and 4.50 fully open, mine reads at 0.55 closed and 4.55 fully open.
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