Electrical issues, many fuses blown, 2002 zx2

[Robert Adams]

Hi guys, where to begin…

I have a 2002 Ford zx2 that is having horrible electrical issues, and here’s how it started:

1. driving down the highway I turn my left blinker on and the car hesitates HARD, just for a split second, then it drives fine but with no turn signals or blinkers. The 10 amp fuse was bad, but didn’t show signs of it being broke/blown. The car did this twice, each time I replaced the fuse and it ran good for a while. (weeks)

2. Going to work the battery light would come on at a certain rpm, and I knew the alternator was the original and needed replaced, but need to wait a few more days until I could find the time to do it. As each day goes by the light comes on at lower rpm’s, until the alternator died out on me while in my car on my lunch break with the ac running. The tach said 0 rpm, and the car was trying to stall out but would jump up the revvs until I turned it off.

3. Changed the alternator and the car seemed to run fine in the parking lot…let it run for about 15 minutes then drove it around the parking lot, all seemed well until I turned the headlights on and they both instantly blew out. Fog lights that I had on the car for years worked, so I was able to drive it home.

4. I drove the car up and down my road a few times, and took it on a few short trips and it seemed to run OK, then one day the tach went to 0 as I’m driving, and we smelled/heard fuses popping, then the car died, and blew the main fuse under the hood. The plastic around it was melted, and we had to literally destroy the fuse to get it all out. Replaced main fuse, but then the wipers will stay on until I remove the fuse or unplug them. Drove it home, replaced headlights which worked, and haven’t really moved it since.

The car blew numerous fuses during all of this, and the day it killed the main fuse it smelled like wires melting, and blew about 5 others. I’ve inspected the harnesses under the hood and from the alternator and didn’t see any signs of physical wear. Also, behind the fuse box inside of the car looks fine. I’m assuming there’s a short somewhere, and have electrical diagrams but never used them to troubleshoot, and don’t know much about electricity in the first place. Any suggestions?

Topic

[Robert Adams]

I’ve never noticed anything like that. Most all of the issues came with the alternator swap. If a connector on the alternator was loose to where it wiggles a bit while the car runs could this cause the issues, such as blowing/melting the main fuse?

[dave]

I returned the alternator and swapped it out for a new one, put it on the car and when I turn the key to the on position the air bag 10 amp fuse blows. Everything seems to work fine besides that…

It appears you are experiencing symptoms of a ‘short’, more specifically, a “short to ground.” Since you are blowing a fuse, the problem is in the power distribution. Below is an attached wiring diagram I got from bbbind.com. I believe the problem can be isolated to somewhere between the 10amp fuse and the airbag diagnostic monitor. What sticks out immediately as a point of interest would be “joint connector #12.” Other points of interest would include connectors #227, 213, 233 and 264.

Attachments:

• fordescortzx2powerdistribution.jpg

[Robert Adams]

Update: I took the alternator back and swapped it out (just to be on the safe side), installed it and made sure all of the connections were solid, and replaced the 10 amp air bag fuse, charged the battery, and so far the car seems to run fine, with no blown fuses. I only put a couple of miles on it, but there seem to be no odd symptoms so far. I did have to replace my rear turn signal bulbs and one tail light bulb, but I think they blew when I was having all of the main issues.

a ?, could a faulty alternator really cause everything that I’ve stated…blowing the main fuse, many fuses including the fuel pump one under the hood, headlight and taillight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, and causing the wiper relay to die so they are always on if plugged in?

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

[dave]

I wonder if bad diodes, or having out of spec A/C ripple would diminish the quality of your D/C power and lead to the symptoms that you have described…

[twiggy]

[quote=”bmxpegan411″ post=33908]Update: I took the alternator back and swapped it out (just to be on the safe side), installed it and made sure all of the connections were solid, and replaced the 10 amp air bag fuse, charged the battery, and so far the car seems to run fine, with no blown fuses. I only put a couple of miles on it, but there seem to be no odd symptoms so far. I did have to replace my rear turn signal bulbs and one tail light bulb, but I think they blew when I was having all of the main issues.

a ?, could a faulty alternator really cause everything that I’ve stated…blowing the main fuse, many fuses including the fuel pump one under the hood, headlight and taillight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, and causing the wiper relay to die so they are always on if plugged in?

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.[/quote]

I doubt it. But I hope I’m wrong and your car stays fixed.

[Robert Adams]

[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=33915][quote=”bmxpegan411″ post=33908]Update: I took the alternator back and swapped it out (just to be on the safe side), installed it and made sure all of the connections were solid, and replaced the 10 amp air bag fuse, charged the battery, and so far the car seems to run fine, with no blown fuses. I only put a couple of miles on it, but there seem to be no odd symptoms so far. I did have to replace my rear turn signal bulbs and one tail light bulb, but I think they blew when I was having all of the main issues.

a ?, could a faulty alternator really cause everything that I’ve stated…blowing the main fuse, many fuses including the fuel pump one under the hood, headlight and taillight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, and causing the wiper relay to die so they are always on if plugged in?

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.[/quote]

I doubt it. But I hope I’m wrong and your car stays fixed.[/quote]

The thing I don’t understand is that ALL of the issues came with the swapping of the alternator. Maybe a loose/wobbly connection after changing the alternator caused them? Today I’ll take it for a few mile trip to test it out.

[John B Kobberstad]

Keep us updated, please. Helps with the data base.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Yea if there was a problem with the regulator or the rectifier inside the alternator it could cause all those issues but unless you have that alternator it’s going to be difficult to prove.

Keep us updated if things change.

[Robert Adams]

Hi Guys,

So far with the new alternator the car seems to run fine. I ran it up and down my road probably 3 times (about 10 miles total) and then I took it to check the mail about 7 miles away yesterday with no issues.

I do have aftermath, however. The windshield wipers still stay on when plugged in which I didn’t mess with yet, and the heater fan doesn’t work, but when you turn the dial to change the direction you can hear it working. Any suggestions on determining which component is making my wipers stay on?

Thanks in advance!

[dave]

The windshield wipers still stay on when plugged in which I didn’t mess with yet, and the heater fan doesn’t work, but when you turn the dial to change the direction you can hear it working. Any suggestions on determining which component is making my wipers stay on?

Power Distribution

Ground Distribution

Heater Circuit
Hint: A lot of commonalities between both circuits here

Wiper Circuit

Q: Can you see how a problem with the wipers can affect the blower motor :huh:

Attachments:

• escortwipers.jpg
• escortgrounddistrib.jpg
• escortheater.jpg
• escortpowerdistrib.jpg

[college man]

keep us updated.

[Robert Adams]

Thanks a ton for taking the time to highlight the circuits in the diagrams, and to post them. I’m no electrician but I’m assuming since my 20 amp fuse for the wipers is not in (lol) then the blower motor won’t fire up?

I watched Eric’s videos on electrical diagnosis but I’m still having a little trouble looking at the diagrams and seeing the whole picture under the hood, so any tips on how to read them are greatly appreciated!

Also, I bought a zx2 service manual (electronic copy) so I have access to the stuff while I’m in my car.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Yea to me it looks like you’re looking at something in that junction box. Perhaps something is shorted in there connecting the 2 circuits.

[Robert Adams]

Hi Guys,

The 20 amp wiper fuse also controls the blower motor. After putting it in and testing it the fan works, so the only issue (for now) is the wipers staying on. I read that the relay is inside of the wiper motor itself and the whole unit needs replaced. My question is could the switch be bad instead of the wiper motor, and is there a way to test each individually? Once I get that issue resolved I think I’ll be good to go.

[dave]

so the only issue (for now) is the wipers staying on.

your wiper circuit appears relatively simple and straight forward. it is nothing more than a fuse, switch, and motor. the wiper switch is the only component in the circuit that regulates wiper operation. it contains many devices that if faulty could result in continuous wiper operation. furthermore, i would like to theorize that the sensitive solid state relay in your wiper switch may have been damaged either from excessive a/c ripple or possibly a power spike originating from your defective alternator.

at this point i would recommend a study on air bag removal, pulling a steering wheel, and how to break into a steering column (some of these tasks require special tools). you’ll then be able to access and replace your wiper switch. a little ‘junkyard practice’ will give you the hands-on experience you need to work on your own vehicle as well as the added benefit of obtaining a cheap part.

[Author]

Replies