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Yeah, my $3K car is needing some repairs, but thats to be expected with a car that has 157K miles. Right now my list and its priorities
1. Catalytic converter. Its unknown how bad the problem is, but with the downstream O2 sensor mimicking the upstream, its a good bet the thing is shot. Estimated repair cost: $200-$250. Its only top priority because of fuel economy and MIL hiding other codes. will fix when I have the funds.
2. Transmission pan gasket leaks oil, very minor and lets face it, it could still stand for a filter and fluid change, But its just as bad as the Regal, 7.4q and the filter is a PITA to get back in. Estimated repair cost: $50, 2 gallons of Dexron III and one filter.
3 or 4. Ignition Lock Cylinder. Turns without the key in, and key can be removed, I dont mind that last feature. Security system has been disabled, so there is that. Estimated repair cost: $150
3 or 4. E-brake. Doesn’t hold the car and this is problematic if the car is in an incline and I need to change the tire, though a set of $10 tire chalks fixes that. Estimated repair cost: Unknown, as its not clear if I need shoes (likely) or something else is broken.
To be honest, I don’t use it, and the only time I can imagine using it were for tire changes or if the Master Brake Cylinder goes out. So lemme ask you guys, is it worth even fiddling with the thing and save myself some time and money and worry more about other minor problems?
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My trucks E brake is pretty bad, but it does hold somewhat…just not very good. I use it in combination with 2 old mufflers behind(or in front of) my rear wheels as wheel chucks and the tranny(its a manual tranny) in reverse or first gear depending on the situation, so I would say chucking the wheels is a great temporary solution. Since you have an auto tranny, you also have the parking pawl which helps your situation.
HUh? Wife’s car just crossed into 150 000 miles and needs no repairs. But it was well maintained through the entire ownership. I humbly do have to disagree with your entry statement.
OP, what IS your vehicle? Some are worth saving and some should have never been bought to start with.
Parking brake. I use mine maybe 5 times a year. I’d have had that on the last concern, unless I live at a mountain summit and my driveway is 15 degrees slope. Also, say for GM cars, they have shitty p-brake right off the factory anyway.
Add Lucas transmission treatment to trannie. Will get you by for better – WARMER – times.
If that car is not worth stealing, disregard ignition lock. I had my 87 Taurus broken in and thereafter, drove her for about a year using screwdriver. Who gives, no one was after those cars anyway.[quote=”ukrkoz” post=120220]HUh? Wife’s car just crossed into 150 000 miles and needs no repairs. But it was well maintained through the entire ownership. I humbly do have to disagree with your entry statement.
OP, what IS your vehicle? Some are worth saving and some should have never been bought to start with.
Parking brake. I use mine maybe 5 times a year. I’d have had that on the last concern, unless I live at a mountain summit and my driveway is 15 degrees slope. Also, say for GM cars, they have shitty p-brake right off the factory anyway.
Add Lucas transmission treatment to trannie. Will get you by for better – WARMER – times.
If that car is not worth stealing, disregard ignition lock. I had my 87 Taurus broken in and thereafter, drove her for about a year using screwdriver. Who gives, no one was after those cars anyway.[/quote] I have to agree with your statement about GM parking brakes, hate to bash my bread an butter brand, but their parking brakes truly are subpar.I hate leaks so I would fix the pan leak on anything I was going to drive. The O2 behind the cat doesn’t effect economy – it is only a cat efficiency test. The emergency brake is a simple job so I would fix that too if my car. For some unexplained reason I like working brakes.
As for the lock, kids will take anything that runs for a joy ride. So, I guess, up to you.
Is the parking brake broken or just out of adjustment? No idea what setup you have.
For the key, as long as the doors still lock, I’d say no harm in leaving it as it is – no one is going to know.
I’d definitely fix the transmission leak – always better to deal with it when it’s minor and under your own terms, then when it gets messy and you need it done ASAP for some reason! Sounds like you have good reason to get in there and take care of it, anyway.
What’s up with the cat? are you throwing a code that’s making you think it’s dead? A single trouble code shouldn’t mask other ones – just use a code scanner and see what else is stored.ukrkoz, the car is an 05 Impala, 157K miles, ex-police, The car works fine, just minor issues that I want to address and not let this car go like my Regal did when it had 10 problems on top of the head gasket.
when I say the transmission pan gasket leaks, its more a light, thin coat of oil around the gasket. no actual drops. And lets face it, no idea when the fluid and filter were changed so I should look into doing that.
Around here, people love impalas, especially with certian groups. But the door locks works 😉
barneyb, this is actually not a simple job, as one of the caliper bolts on the right rear was rounded, sounds like I could use a Go-2 Socket :S Wasn’t me, I only found out about it trying to figure out why the parking brake isnt working.
DrD, when I say masking I mean the MIL turns on if there is 1 code or 10, so I could have a more serious problem later on and no idea until the engine craps out. Yes, it is throwing a code P0420, aannnd the downstream O2 is acting much like the upstream, just lagging a bit.
Otherwise, aside from the engine moving because of the stock torque struts and the other very minor problems (speakers… ugh) the car runs GREAT. It’s way better than my regal, even when I just got that car (dead digital odometer)
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