Dry Ice Bolt anti-seize?

[Cecilia]

I have a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT with a dirty EGR Valve. The problem is the manifold tube bolt is seized up good and can’t remove it from the vehicle. I don’t want to take a blow torch to it as it’s a fuel related part. We got in some Omaha Steaks from good ol’ dad for Christmas with dry ice. My question is can I apply the dry ice and work the same principle except with freezing it?

Topic

[Cecilia]

My husband’s concerned that I will break the bolt or tube doing this. We’ve tried everything except the torch which I’m hesitant on doing as it is fuel part related. Force is now causing the tube to bend out of shape, so we stopped. Has anyone worked with dry ice on car parts other than spray rust removal? I’m thinking applying it on the tube itself, spray in more anti-seize and try once more.

[dan]

if you are not coming into contact with any aluminom or plastic components a small torch should be safe, the exhaust of a vehicle already reaches over 1,000 degrees in some cases, just have a fire extinguisher handy.

[Cecilia]

So it is safe to torch with the ERG Valve still connected to the system at the manifold exhaust tube? It’s no longer a closed system as we took out the smaller screws (with ease) from the intake manifold and the gasket does need replacing on inspection.

Looking at the goal of taking out the EGR valve and replacing or cleaning it (new ones for this model aren’t cheap even on ebay), we’re going to see if the tube can be removed more easily from underneath where it connects directly to the manifold. Seeing if we can just pull the EGR out with the tube still attached. Then I would have no issue with the torch use off and away from the system. Will see when the sun’s back up weather permitting.

But I do want to make sure I am hearing right… if all else fails, torching while connected (it’s all metal parts) is safe? This is the 1 and 1/8 inch bolt that connects the EGR Tube from the Manifold to the EGR Valve. Must use an open ended wrench due to the tube interference.

The Bolt that connects #6 (tube) to #2(EGR)

in the diagram.

Attachments:

• egr.png

[dan]

so you are saying there is a bolt that holds the EGR valve to the tube? how close is the bolt to the EGR valve, right on the EGR Valve? you have to remember the EGR Valve recurulates exhaust gasses which already get super hot, i think you might be ok, my advice to you is to put WET RAGS, soaked and i mean drenched in cold water on all the components around the bolt to keep it from burning, but keep the rags wet when heating try a propane torch first, see if that makes a difference.

when i did break work sometimes some of the bolts holding the caliper on would sieze up on the mounting bracket, the rubber break hose wouldn’t be to far away with some other rubber components, we would put a ton of soaked wet rags all over rubber components, the water in the wet rags would evaporate as we heated up the metal bolt that got hot drawing heat away form the rubber components, but we constantly kept the rags wet, and a fire extinguisher at the ready.

i have no idea how close you are to plastic components, but i would try a propane torch, and keep everything covered in soaking wet rags around it theroughly, and then carefully heat up as you go and see if you can get the bolt to break free, and keep a fire extingusher at the ready, and 911 on speed dile just in case, and keep the vehicle away form any buildings to be safe.

its really hard to tell from the diagram also what components are made of plastic and aluminom too, but like i said, keep the parts you don’t want hot covered in wet rags, and if there is no plastic right on that you might be ok.

[Cecilia]

Thanks for the feedback, we’ll know soon if it can be removed from the bottom. The diagram is of an automatic with a 4.0, mine’s a standard 2.3L. But the best one I could find showing how connected with what. The pipe looks to be aluminum and the bolt copper, the EGR steel alloy. Good precautions brought up even if the part is off the vehicle. Wish me luck! A simple thing that turns out to be a two or three day affair, lol.

[Cecilia]

Quick question for confirmation… the upper intake manifold hole that goes on the EGR is supposed to be a HOLE, not what appears to be a solid layer of carbon. Looking like the problem was not the egr but manifold itself 🙁

[dan]

its very common for carbon to build up, it could be as simple as cleaning out the carbon, please excuse my delayed reply.

[Cecilia]

The manual is saying we need to empty out the coolant before removing the manifold… looking at it, I’m not seeing why this would be needed. We have the throttle body removed and were just going to clean it from there. But being awkward to get to the areas gunked up thinking we should just pull it out and clean it up. Looks straight forward, a few screws and it will pop off. (yes I know the gaskets will have to be replaced) Is there something I’m not seeing concerning the Cooling system? Just wanting to take off the upper manifold, clean it up and reinstall and continue with running the OBD1 diagnostics.

[dan]

Usually coolant travels through a intake manifold, removing the manifold without draining coolant can lead to a mess in places on or even in the engine you don’t need.

[Nick]

You can also clamp the hoses going into and out of the intake manifold. Remember to burp the cooling system really well there after, yes it is highly like that cleaning the carbon out of the manifold will substantially help.

[Cecilia]

Thanks for the feedback, it’s now on my kitchen table 🙂

[Author]

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