Drum Stuck in a Special Way

[Jenn]

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Topic

[Jenn]

I am perfectly aware I figged up. I studied the vids, looked over my manual, and still somehow missed the part about losening the shoes BEFORE attempting to remove the drum. The shoes stuck on the drum, the pins have snapped off, I have purchased a new spring kit. I cannot move forward with confidence however, because I have never seen inside before so I don’t KNOW how all the bits are connected, really, the manual is not perfect. I snipped the lower spring. I would like to just snip the others. I guess my question is, if I ratched the drum off more, will I bend/break the clevis or parking break lever? What do I do next? Please help!?

[Dave Tidman]

If you have not tried to remove the drum on the other side, you can use that side as a reference for the one you are unsure about. Looking at the pictures, I don’t see any alternative other than snipping the springs and hoping for the best, just make sure you don’t snip the parking brake cable (that may be hanging you up also). You didn’t mention make and model, but it’s possible the dealer parts may have an exploded drawing they can give you. You could try to continue ratcheting it off, but be careful of the brake cylinder, you could mess up the seals if the actuator rods are bound up. You could also try to back the adjuster off through the backing plate, if it is a star wheel and you can back it off, back it off as far as you can.

I hate it when stuff like this happens, good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Mike]

x2 to Dtidman’s advice….
I would try to back off the self adjuster, rather than prying or snipping anything else.
Snipping the springs won’t help much in getting the shoes off the drum.
The self adjuster (a.k.a. star wheel) has teeth on it and there’s a metal lever that sits against a tooth, to keep it from turning.
Look here at 5 minutes 15 seconds for a close up look at it on a Honda

Typically, the lever contacts it on the drum side, so it must be slightly pushed towards the drum with a thin screwdriver, coat hanger piece, etc. and held there in order to be able to turn the adjuster back enough to slide the drum off.
There is often a rectangular hole with rounded corners on the backing plate behind the teeth of the star wheel to allow access.

Be sure to heed the advice of not touching the other side’s brakes yet, so that you can use that other side as a guide to reassembly.

If you haven’t sprayed any liquids inside the drum, it appears that your wheel cylinder is leaking.

[Jenn]

Thank you SO MUCH! That vid was perfect! I know what I am looking at now!! Ahh, one step closer to beer time. You are my hero. I can see the teeth now, so I will definately try to ratchet that. I am reluctant to try removing the drum off the other side because I can’t afford another surprise.. that is a smart manuever for sure, but I think I got this figgered out now. Yup wheel cylinder IS toast, tis the cause for the repair. I also have the master to replace. But I think I should have the wheel done first before I go ahead on that. You rock. Thanks again

[Jenn]

Well dang it. I definitely have a “situation” I tried budging the star wheel and it wouldn’t. It is stuck in there tight. The shoes are lodged in tight, and at a slight angle, in the drum. I cannot get any of my tools in the crack to snip the side spring, the top spring is buried under the clevis (star adjuster). On top of this dandy situation, I just tried removing the brake line from the wheel cylinder with my new 10mm flare wrench I got for the job, and the flare wrench stripped the bolt. Yes, I presoaked with penetrating lube. Yes, I am crying a little bit.

Will removing the wheel hub be my only way? Can I even if I have no way to remove the parking brake cable from inside cuz the drum is stuck on? Is my only recourse to take a medal disk and angle grind the drum off?? If I do THAT, will I have to replace the drum on the other side too??? AAAArrrrgh. Arg.

[Richard Kirshy]

I can offer a solution to your situation.
Granted it isn’t perfect but it will get you out of a bad situation.

You can use a grinder and cut off wheel.
Cut through as much of the drum as possible then hit it with a large hammer to crack the drum in half.

[Jenn]

At least my drum is pulled away from the wheel hub. This dude is pretty nonchalant about cutting into his hub! I hope it’s his hub…

IS THIS REALLY MY ONLY SOLUTION???

[Richard Kirshy]

If the adjuster is frozen and you have cut the retaining pins and you still can not release the brake shoes from the drum.
Your options are extremely limited.
Your only other chance from what I can see in your photos would be to try a hammer and punch or chisel and beat the brake shoes and hope they release from the drum.
If not, cutting looks like the only other way I can see from what you’ve presented.

[Mike]

Not to be Captain Obvious but you do have the parking brake released, right?

Now, just to clarify…the lever that locks the star adjuster teeth from being able to be turned has been pushed away from and is held away from the teeth, iwhile you try to turn the star wheel but it still won’t turn at all?

If so, then your options are:
Use a couple of blocks of wood to keep the drum at the maximum possible distance away from the backing plate.
Use a bent tipped pry bar to pry each shoe at the top and bottom, so that the shoes move towards the backing plate–while the drum stays where it is.
For example
https://smile.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2020-Pry-4-Piece/dp/B000FW4MZC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528246432&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=tekton+pry+bar

OR

Plan on replacing the star adjuster and generously douse the star wheel tooth area with PBBlaster or Kroil.
After it sits for a while, while keeping the lever away from the teeth, try to get the toothed wheel to move with a hammer and screwdriver.
OR
Try to pry the drum at the hub opening.
You may be able to slowly pry the shoes back towards the backing plate enough to get the drum off.
The side spring isn’t what’s causing the shoes to be cocked—that’s caused by the top spring.
Might have to pry both shoes a slight amount, alternating between prying the left shoe then the right, repeating until the shoes are free of the drum .

AND, when you try to remove the other side, if you can’t back off the star adjuster, keep turning the drum while pulling it away from the backing plate.
It should slowly release from the shoes that way.

[Zac Aleksovski]

I don’t know but looking at the photos, you might have enough room to get a pry bar on the star wheel adjuster and mangle it out of there. I’d suggest cutting the hold down pins looks but it looks like they’ve already met their maker.

[Jenn]

These are all very excellent suggestions. I took a break from working on this because it was really starting to bum me out, and well, rain. Getting geared up to get back at it in this heat wave. FYI the lever is squished against the inside of the drum, there is no way for me to back it off the star wheel. I am getting more confidence from all of you about man-handling the shoes. However, my first mode of action will be to try to remove the right side drum. If I cannot remove that one without jamming it either, I will just angle grind those buggers off and buy new drums. If I can get the right drum off, then I will go-to-town on the shoes on the left side instead, and buy new shoes. I will get back to yall to let you know how it goes!

[Jenn]

Or, maybe I should just do this…

[Richard Kirshy]

Glad to hear you got it off.

[Mike]

Glad you finally got the drum off.
I hope reassembly goes far smoother for you!

Not sure from the pics how deep the groove is where the shoes slide against the backing plate, but you might need to replace the backing plate.
Left upper looks kind of deep.
See here starting around 5 min 54 seconds to see what I mean

[Author]

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