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Hi,
I agreed to work on a friend’s 2009 Journey because her rear wiper comes on when she selects reverse gear. 🙂 Anyway, the left reverse lamp dims when the wiper moves and I found a wiring diagram. The left reverse lamp and rear wiper splice together at splice 307 (or 337) and share ground G306.Where is G306 on this car? Also, will I find a poor or missing ground condition when I get there? What else may be wrong?
Thanks!
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Don’t know where it is located. What you are looking for is a loose nut or bolt. It might not look loose so put a wrench/socket on there and try to tighten it.
What a ground commonly looks like:
Then look for these.
Green Fuzzy Stuff (GFS) aka copper oxidization
White Fuzzy Stuff (WFS) aka sulfuric acid crystals (Only on batteries)
Missing heat shrink over lug. This allows water under the sheathing which can cause copper corrosion all the way down the length of wire. Causing high resistance.
Rubbed through wire (Minus charring as this is a positive cablethere should be none of this on a ground)
Those are the normal things you will see that and broken studs/bolts.
As for splices they are normally just crimped sometimes not even crimped.
A proper splice:
A pis-poor splice: (Do NOT use these they are an electrical nightmare)
A splice block:
Thanks for the reply! After some ninja Google work I found the ground location right behind the left rear quarter panel trim. It turns out the ground was as healthy as could be.
But there was high resistance, 3.6 ohms, between the loads and the ground so I checked different spots. The resistance seems to be in a connector C307. I’ll try fiddling with the pins or making a jumper wire to test the validity of my diag. Local Dodge dealer doesn’t seem to have connectors like this in stock.
Thanks again for your help!
Craftsman makes a cheap set of micro screwdrivers. I use the flat blades to rebend the spring parts of female connectors. Doing that normally is enough to fix the issue. Make sure you look for tat corrosion in the female pins or on the male ones.
You can also use eyeglass screwdrivers to do the same thing normally. If you need tomake up a file fo the terminals. Buy a steel nail file. Use side cutters and cut it to the appropriate size to fit in the female pins. MAF cleaner can be used to help clean them up and rinse away the filings. Just make sure to let it dry fully and power is off while doing this. I would disconnect the battery to be safe then sorry as the MAF cleaner could short across pins. You can also just use compressed air like for cleaning computers to blow out the fillings and there is a lot less risk of damage and you do not need to unhook things just make sure the can is upright and not upside down.
I recommend you ditch the resistance checks for voltage drop tests. Resistance really doesn’t tell you much because the circuit is disconnected. A voltage drop test tells you what the circuit is doing under load. I’ve written up how to do this test here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Hopefully that helps. BTW, if you have a trailer lighting connector, I’d start there. I see a lot of problems originate with trailer harness connections that cause issues like this.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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