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I have a question, im having some issues with my brothers vehicle. Its a 2008 Dodge Avenger 2.4L and it has 2 codes:
P0017 – Crankshaft-Camshaft Timing Misalignment Bank 1 Sensor 2
P000B – Camshaft Bank 1 Sensor 2 Position Slow ResponseNow for what its doing. When you start it it will run fine, but when you put it in reverse it will sometimes bog and die also the fly-by-wire TB light comes on most of the time it does it, looks like this: http://repairpal.com/images/managed/content_images/encyclopedia/warning_lights/Throttle_Control_Bolt.jpg
Next we checked the air filter, it was fine. Took the intake hose off and looked at the throttle body, had engine oil in it, not a huge amount but there was some in it. The intake hose had no oil in it whatsoever. The engine ran kinda rough so we changed the spark plugs (They were factory, 90K miles) and changed the oil with castrol synthetic 5W20 ran MUCH smoother after we did that. We took it for a test drive and it drove like a new car, we got back parked it for about an hour and when he went to leave it stalled when he put it into reverse, and again the TB light came on. The camshaft sensor is not shorted or open i tested it. Im not a mechanic but i work on my familys vehicles because i like to, i hope to go to school for it when i get out of High School. I dont know where to go from here, any ideas? Anything is appriciated and welcomed. Thank you and if you have any questions just ask 😛
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Check for proper oil pressure , Check the wiring to all cam and crank sensors, and inspect the phaser for debris or damage. Otherwise you might have to try a camshaft/crankshaft sensor.Just some possible causes. here see if any of this helps.
The P0017 sounds like a cam/crank correlation code, so either you have a cam sensor that’s periodically dropping signal or your timing chain skipped a tooth and your timing can’t completely adjust for it.
The throttle body light is a by-product of the engine stalling. The oil is probably just residue from the PCV system. I would strongly suggest not touching the throttle plate unless you have access to a pro level scan tool as moving a fly-by-wire throttle body can screw up the “learned” idle position.
Try pulling out your crank sensor and giving it a good clean, take it for a drive and see if it plays up again.
Ok replaced the camshaft bank 1 sensor 2 and P000B went away. Moved the vehicle bucked and stalled when we came to a stop. Started hard after that. When we got back i scanned for codes again and got P1607 – PCM INTERNAL SHUTDOWN TIMER SLOW RATIONALITY
Cleaned the crank sensor also. Cleaned all the engine and body grounds and it didnt help. Any more ideas? Im starting to think the computer is going out
Take off the battery and the alternator and have both of them load tested at an auto parts store. All that costs you is a little time and a little driving (in another vehicle, of course). If the battery has a bad cell or the alternator is not working properly strange things can happen in the computer. I wouldn’t worry about the codes until the battery/alternator can be ruled out. Taking the battery out and having it tested will also allow the computer to completely reset since the battery voltage will be gone for a while. Then, see what codes return, if any, and go from there.
Load tested the battery is the first thing we did. Passed, but we didn’t do the alternator
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We’re not done yet. It is good that the battery and alt are ok because we can more or less rule out spurious currents and voltages. With the computer cleared (the battery was disconnected while the alt was out, right?), let’s see what happens next. How does it run now? Same/different? Any codes come back?
Yes, we currently have P0017 and P1607. P000B went away when we replaced the camshaft sensor. It runs ok until you drive forward and stop again. As soon as you stop it kinda goes (Forgive me for random letters) rrrrrrRRRrrrrRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and stalls. When it revs up it bucks quite badly. Other than that it runs beautifully, doesn’t miss and revs up nice and smooth
No, after i replaced the camshaft sensor and cleared the codes they came right back. Also tried clearing the codes again after the testing
Ok. Anyhow, the P1607 code is a strange one that you are still having set. What causes this code is this: The computer stays on for a period of time after you turn off the engine. There is a timer in the computer that starts ticking when you shut off the engine. If power to the computer is interrupted (a fuse blows, ground or positive battery leads removed, etc.) while this timer is counting down, the next time the computer powers up it recognizes the failed countdown and sets the code. After removing the battery leads from the engine and clearing the memory, this code should not reappear unless it loses power again during the countdown after a subsequent shutoff. This code is also auto-resetting, meaning after three successful shutoff-countdown cycles it clears this code automatically. If this code is reoccurring or never resets itself, it could indicate a power or ground problem to the computer due to a wiring fault, a bad fuse, high electrical resistance (i.e. rust/corrosion), faulty alternator, faulty battery, or bad computer.
Your other code, P0017, is a cam/crank correlation code. This code is set when there is a discrepancy between what is reported by the CKP and/or CMP and where the computer ‘thinks’ the position is supposed to be. In other words, the computer is saying the cam and crank are not in sync. This can be caused by jumped timing, dirty/bad sensor(s), improperly set sensor (if adjustable), cracked/broken/slipped tone ring, dirty oil, wrong oil viscosity, improper oil level, faulty alternator, faulty battery, wiring fault, bad fuse, or bad computer.
Despite the fact that a bad computer can be the cause of both issues, be careful not to quickly condemn the computer, it should be the last thing pointed at after everything else is ruled out. Why? Because they are very expensive. All US cars made 2005+ have the VIN numbers recorded in the computer, as well as vehicle mileage. If you live in a state that tests vehicles for emissions, if the VIN in the computer doesn’t match the VIN on the chassis it is a mandatory fail (in some states). The only way to get a new computer module with your VIN is to have a virgin computer programmed by the dealer. Big $$$. Somewhere between $700 and $1200. If you use a ‘used’ computer, it won’t have your VIN and it may not be programmed to support the options installed in your vehicle (i.e. things won’t work, trans won’t shift properly, A/C may not even come on). Also, if the mileage recorded in the computer is different from the mileage on the odometer, that is a mileage discrepancy according to federal law, and must be disclosed if the vehicle is ever sold, reducing the value of the vehicle, and permanently branding the title with a defect.
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