Dodge 2.4 L4 DOHC timing belt/water pump

[Peter]

Hey all,

I’m planning on changing my timing belt/water pump in a few weeks (I’m at around 89k right now, but I’d rather be proactive change it while its the summer). I’ve also replaced every other major part of my cooling system (except the water pump) since I’ve had it (though my temps are currently fine/no signs of trouble, knock on wood).

I have my car’s FSM, a Haynes manual, and I’m about to buy all of the special tools needed (camshaft sprocket holder, crank pulley remover/installer, etc. I was wondering if anyone here has changed a timing belt on one of these engines and has any tips that aren’t in either of my manuals? I’ve done a fair amount of challenging DIY work on my car in the past, so I’m confident I can do this.

My only real concern is getting the new belt on and around the crank/cams without screwing up the timing (since this is a valve interference engine). Of course I’m going to check the timing before firing it off (by slowly turning the crank and checking for resistance once it’s all assembled), but I don’t want to take it all apart more than once (or twice). I’ve also seen tools on the market for holding the cam sprockets in time while getting the belt on. Would it be worth it to order one?

I’ve read that the timing belt on this engine is one of the most difficult to change (since the whole accessory drive belt system has to be removed, as well as the crank pulley and cam sprockets (all while working next to the shock tower with only inches of clearance from up top. This is the only reason I’m feeling a little trepidation over this maintenance…

Any tips? Thanks!

Topic

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1f7x1-time-99-dodge-stratus-2-4-dohv-timing-belt.html

http://www.justanswer.com/car/02b9x-97-dodge-stratus-timing-belt-a-2-4-engine-needs-replacing.html

[Peter]

Thank you for the reply!

I have all of that information across my Factory Service Manual and Haynes Manual, but what I’m looking for more specifically are any tech tips (from people familiar with these types of DOHC timing belts) to prevent the dual cams from rotating while installing the belt.

Thank you!

[EricTheCarGuy]

About the only thing I will add is to make sure you bleed the cooling system when you’re done. It’s the #1 cause of overheating or strange cooling system operation after a repair like that.

Don’t worry that you don’t have a bleeder valve, those just make filling the system easier. Do all the other steps in the video however.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Peter]

I do have a bleeder valve on the front of my tstat housing (and it’s one of the few things that’s really easy to access on this engine). I’ll be sure to bleed all the air out once I’m finished, and I just got my first lisle spill-free funnel (which will make things a little easier/quicker).

Thanks!

[Bill]

I have been a tech for over 45 years and if I owned a “Part Time” Cruiser I would pay someone to do that job. I won’t even do one at work.
They are terrible to do unless you have small hands and arms.

Just my opinion.

[Lorrin Barth]

[quote=”wysetech” post=104093]I have been a tech for over 45 years and if I owned a “Part Time” Cruiser I would pay someone to do that job. I won’t even do one at work.
They are terrible to do unless you have small hands and arms.

Just my opinion.[/quote]

Wysetech, why do you have to pull the cam sprockets? That doesn’t sound right to me.

[Bill]

Barneyb..I have only done one and I don’t remember removing the cam sprockets.

I am on vacation, on the worst internet connection you could ever imagine so I don’t have any repair info on hand.

[Lorrin Barth]

[quote=”wysetech” post=104101]Barneyb..I have only done one and I don’t remember removing the cam sprockets.

I am on vacation, on the worst internet connection you could ever imagine so I don’t have any repair info on hand.[/quote]

Okay, thanks.

To the owner: if you don’t have to remove the cam sprockets and there is a tool for holding the cam sprockets from turning, get it. It always makes things easier.

[Peter]

There is a reason for removing the cam sprockets: They prevent you from removing the rear timing cover, which needs to come off in order to replace the water pump. There are tools available for holding the cams, but they don’t adjust wide enough to work on my engine in stock form. I may buy one and modify it with a longer section of threaded rod so that I can get the adjustment I need.

As far as actually doing this job: this engine is in an 04 stratus sedan. There is more room to work with in this car vs the PT Cruser (but I’ll still be working near a front strut tower). Dropping the engine mount right next to the timing set will also drop the engine just far enough that I can get to things more easily.

Thank you for all of the opinions, I happen to have smaller hands and arms, so hopefully it isn’t so terrible 😉 .

[Lorrin Barth]

I’ve done plenty of timing belts, I looked at the installation of your engine in your vehicle and I think wysetech has the correct idea. On the other hand, if the job is hard and you are good then you best do it yourself.

[Peter]

Yep, I mean I already have all of the “special” tools I need for doing the job (for pulling off/re-installing the crank pully, removing the cam sprockets, etc. Most of the local shops around here want over $1,000 to do the job (I don’t blame them) and the local dealers want at least $1,500 for the labor and $500 for parts, so I might as well do it myself. At least I’m working from a Factory Service Manual 😉

[Lorrin Barth]

I did a clutch on my Lancer Evolution last fall which is also not a simple job. But I had other transportation so no reason to hurry. Just quit thinking of it as one big job but instead a series of little jobs. When I finished I missed working on it.

[Aaron]

Wow they want $1500 for the timing belt and water pump replacement.

As far as tips: use a socket in between the spokes of the cam shaft sprocket to hold it stationary while you break it loose. You can put the socket on a bolt on the inner cover (about 6 o’clock from the front sprocket). Then when you go to break the bolt loose it jams against your other ratchet.

[Peter]

Hey all,

I’m going to do this scheduled maintenance tomorrow (plus replacing all of my heater lines, rusty metal heater tubes, water pump inlet, and all of my engine/tranny mounts). See this thread for the photo essay (which is probably going up sometime later tomorrow).

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/10-Repair-Central-The-How-To-Forum/52658-dodge-2-4-dohc-timing-belt-water-pump-and-more

[Author]

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