Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › General Discussion › Do K&N Performance Intakes Work?
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September 10, 2016 at 12:03 am #867805
Recently I have been looking into buying a K&N Performance intake kit (K&N 57i Series induction kit) to replace my stock intake on my 91 Chevy Cavalier. Are they worth the price and do they fit well? (I say this because the intake kit claims to be universal)
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September 10, 2016 at 12:26 am #867808
I doubt the intake will will do much for performance in this application unless the stock air filter/air box are really restrictive.
Usually, on stock normally aspirated engines, the air intakes can provide more flow than the engine needs.
Modified and turbo charged engines may need a modified lower restriction air intake.
I think a K&N replacement filter in the stock air box would be about the same flow at a much lower cost, and the real benefit is the filter can be washed are re-oiled, so it might cost less than several paper filters over the life of ownership?
The intakes/filters that are like you are talking about do have some under hood appeal, and will provide more engine sound when driving so it may “sound” like the car is faster? This was an issue with the new Mustangs, where the factory added a “sound” tube to the intake because the engine was too quiet.September 10, 2016 at 9:12 am #867839Huh. They were “too quiet”? Thats pretty funny actually.
September 17, 2016 at 5:54 am #868390I had one in my TSX before, but did not really notice any gains, so I sold the intake. I will stick to OEM intake filters from now on, and unless it is a cold air intake or short ram intake, you will not notice any gains if it is just a drop in filter like the K&N in my opinion.
September 17, 2016 at 6:11 am #868392The one thing most people don’t know when adding a short ram intake is that without separating the filter area from the rest of the engine compartment all the air its getting is the hot air from under the hood.
September 17, 2016 at 8:03 am #868397Good point, in general, short ram intake usually experience heat stroke because of drawing up hot air from the engine bay, but there are a few ones in my rsx-s days that were greatly designed specially the JDM ones. Cold air intake can also hydrolock an engine if it sucks in water from flood or heavy rains, very rare but it can still happen.
September 18, 2016 at 9:12 am #868483It will make some intake noise, but that’s about it. And maybe look ‘cool’.
September 20, 2016 at 12:55 am #868613the kid at AutoZone assured me it would add like 45hp
September 20, 2016 at 1:19 am #868617Now iv had my good laugh for the day.
Its amazing what they will tell you to make a sale.
September 21, 2016 at 6:21 am #868703People have done studies on youtube using a dyno. They tried every single combination of a cold air intake. From having no filter at all to even running a hose outside of the car. The best gain they saw was about 3HP and that was from the house outside of the car blowing a big fan into the house.
September 21, 2016 at 5:45 pm #868720Cold air intakes are a pain in the ass.
So most of my Acuras I stick with short ram just so I don’t have to deal with sucking street water.
Cold air one would stall my engine even going through a damn car wash.Eric’s Acura is the only one I’ve ever seen with the stock intake though lol.
September 21, 2016 at 7:08 pm #868723I started using K&N filters in the 1980’s when I had an off-road truck and was replacing the paper air filters several times a year. With the K&N filter I could wash it out, re-oil and re-use the same filter. That was the big selling point for me.
I also used the replacement flat panel version in a 1997 Chrysler Concord 3.5L, and never had any problems with the engine in the car. The transmission finally went out with 230,000 miles on the car.
I also use the K&N filter(s), 3″ tall 14″ round plus the filtered lid, on my 1971 Charger with a 700+ HP, 500″ stroker engine because my hood clearance limits the size of the filter, and the engine does need alot of airflow (using a 1050 cfm carb.)My commuter cars with small engines, 2.0L and 2.4L, both have pretty large filters for the engine size, and I use the Wix brand filters, replacing the filters about once a year.
September 21, 2016 at 7:46 pm #868724[quote=”451Mopar” post=176094]I also used the replacement flat panel version in a 1997 Chrysler Concord 3.5L, and never had any problems with the engine in the car. The transmission finally went out with 230,000 miles on the car..[/quote]
I have a 97 Intrepid 3.5 that i still drive to this day.
Did you ever pull out the air silencer out of the intake tube?
That silencer choked the 3 inch intake down to an 1 1/4 but after i removed it the engine really woke up and it really surprised me how much more throttle the car had after.
September 23, 2016 at 4:56 am #868810[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=176095][quote=”451Mopar” post=176094]I also used the replacement flat panel version in a 1997 Chrysler Concord 3.5L, and never had any problems with the engine in the car. The transmission finally went out with 230,000 miles on the car..[/quote]
I have a 97 Intrepid 3.5 that i still drive to this day.
Did you ever pull out the air silencer out of the intake tube?
That silencer choked the 3 inch intake down to an 1 1/4 but after i removed it the engine really woke up and it really surprised me how much more throttle the car had after.[/quote]
Yes, I removed the silencer. That was a good car, but did develop a starting issue in very cold weather, like 10 degrees or below. It never threw a code, and I think it may have been caused when they started putting 10-15% Ethenol in the fuel here. I replaced the temp sensor, but had the same issues. Luckly, there was a simple solution, Disconnect the temp sensor to put it in limp mode, then it would start. Reconnect temp sensor and no problems unless the car sat overnight on a very cold day.
I think it really needed a computer re-flash for the change in the amount of ethenol in the fuel. -
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