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distributer assembly with integral ignition coil

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  • #600514
    JamesJames
    Participant

      Hello all,
      I have a 94 integra. It had an issue of randomly not starting with dimming dash lights. I looked for what was causing the problem but it was inconsistent and would start working by the time I would try to fix it. Well it hasn’t given me any trouble in the last month but yesterday it began again. I think it might be the distributor assembly with integral ignition coil going bad but I’m not sure where that is and how to know for sure. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a buzzing or a clicking noise from under the dash just in from of the clutch pedal to the left a bit. I put my finger on where the sound was coming from and I could feel a pulsing. Also the beeping noise from when the key is turned to radio, beeps quieter when the lights are dimmed. And when I pound on the dash the lights become brighter and the beeping becomes louder. Any ideas?

    Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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    • #600545
      college mancollege man
      Moderator
        #600552
        JamesJames
        Participant

          So I’ve identified what is making the clicking sound. Its the relay. I’m not sure what the buzzing noise is but when I take off the relay, it still makes the buzzing noise when I try to start it. Does that give anyone any ideas on what it could be?

          #600559
          BillBill
          Participant

            First thing to do is remove the battery terminals and clean them well. Make sure the battery cable ground connections are clean and tight. Have the battery tested to make sure it’s ok. All basic stuff but many problems have been cured with the simple things.

            #600562
            george gonzalezgeorge gonzalez
            Participant

              It’s not the distributor. Quite possibly a loose battery connector. Simple fix, tighten the clamps.

              #600768
              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
              Keymaster

                The distributor on Hondas seems to be the ‘catch all’ for problems with those engines. Truth is, it rarely is the problem but they often get replaced with aftermarket units that are, in my opinion, inferior to the OE part. That said, I don’t think your distributor has anything to do with your problem. By the sound of it I would suspect the electrical portion of the ignition switch. This IS a common problem on Hondas, in fact I cover the issues in this video.

                I’d take a look into that first before you do anything else.

                Good luck and keep us posted.

                #600770
                JamesJames
                Participant

                  I had the battery tested a about a month ago when this problem first occurred and they said it was fine. I’ve also checked the terminals. That was the first thing I checked and they are very tight. I don’t know if this is useful information but I can’t push start the car when its doing this, like I can when the battery is dead. Could it be the ignition switch? Could I post a video of the sound and the actions of the problem and where the noises are coming from? Would that be helpful?
                  Thanks!

                  #600844
                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                  Keymaster

                    As I said, ignition switch problems are common on Hondas. I think it’s worth looking into. As for the starter circuit, this information may be helpful to you.

                    http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems

                    #601367
                    JamesJames
                    Participant

                      That’s the direction I’m thinking but would the ignition switch cause a draw on all the power? When I lock my doors, it doesn’t have the energy to even activate all the locks, or roll up the windows, or even light the dome light. And that’s without the key being engaged. It only gets worse when the key is turned. I would say its a bad battery but the battery tested good and the connections are good as well. Is there something that controls the power supply to the car from the battery that’s located under the dash?

                      #601765
                      JamesJames
                      Participant

                        Alright so I’m a bit embarrassed to say but I think it was just corrosion around the connections. I did not see any but I took the connectors off and washed them with vinegar and scrubbed them down very well. Then I put them back on and the car started. This would make sense as the problem stopped after I had the battery tested at o’reilly’s. When I took it off I cleaned the connectors off to be tested. Then the problem stopped. What is causing the corrosion to build up so quickly? Thanks everyone!

                        #601818
                        george gonzalezgeorge gonzalez
                        Participant

                          The battery puts out sulphuric acid fumes and that corrodes the connector clamps. You can prevent that by putting on lots of grease over the clamps, inside and out, so ALL the metal parts of the clamps and any exposed wire are all solidly greased up. It sounds exactly wrong, but when you tighten up the clamps the grease moves out of the way but still covers the corrodable parts.

                          #601924
                          BillBill
                          Participant

                            The proper thing to use to clean battery connections is baking soda mixed in water. A little sand paper or brush to polish the contact surfaces is all you need. I have been using spray paint on battery cable connections for years with great success. Soak them well with paint and they stay clean for a long time. Use any color you wish.

                            Oh, and be sure they are connected to the battery first.

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