- This topic has 15 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
I was watching some tool demonstration videos by Eric and I got to thinking of what were the hardest to get to oil filters I could remember. On GM cars I think the 2.2L Cavalier (around 1999) was pretty tough and the Cadillac Northstar engine oil filter was tough. I ask what others think were tough to get at oil filters? One other I can think of was the early Kia Sportage. I really think the 2.2 Cavalier was pretty tough, some guys remove the right side tire and go in through the wheel well. Something like this really eats up time.
-
Replies
-
There are ones on the Ford 650/750 Cummins that are a pain. There are lines/starter wires so you can not pull it out the bottom. There is the frame to the side and a/c compressor in front. A/c lines run right next it. You have to remove the hp switch and have one special size filter wrench or a strap wrench. You get oil everywhere cause you have to tilt it to the side to pull it out and if you manage to pierce it from the bottom it hits the lines, frame, axle. The strap wrench is the only way if really tight and you have to weave it between the wires and lines open it up and then tighten it down and reset it after like 1/8 turn.
Hardest to remove I had one on a Mitsu fuso that someone must have crossthreaded really bad. Air chisel wouldn’t remove it had to replace the entire assembly. Had a freightliner that took me and another big tech both using filter wrenches to remove using our entire bodies off the frame. Had to scrape the o-ring or rtv off. No clue wtf that was about.
Hardest Oil drain plugs are international 13L. They heatcycle tigheter each time the engine heats up. Have to put a 4′ pry bar on a 18″ breaker bar and use my whole body lifting me at 280lbs completely off the creeper before it breaks loose. Can’t use an impact as it will strip the plug…
2000ish Chevy cavaliers….have to go through the wheel well or preform some acrobatics from under….. Lol…..
97-02 4runners….just a really bad spot through the driver wheel well.The new buick enclaves/gmc terrains with the 3.6….. Under the exhaust manifold in the front….motor mount gets in the way if your going in from the bottom
The new Ford f-150’s with the eco boost…. Now… It’s not a bad spot per sey, but Ford engineers decided to make a “drain funnel” for you…. Only problem is it doesn’t work all too well and you end up spilling oil all over the floor because there’s two drains
[quote=”LS1king” post=171193]2000ish Chevy cavaliers….have to go through the wheel well or preform some acrobatics from under….. Lol…..
97-02 4runners….just a really bad spot through the driver wheel well.The new buick enclaves/gmc terrains with the 3.6….. Under the exhaust manifold in the front….motor mount gets in the way if your going in from the bottom
The new Ford f-150’s with the eco boost…. Now… It’s not a bad spot per sey, but Ford engineers decided to make a “drain funnel” for you…. Only problem is it doesn’t work all too well and you end up spilling oil all over the floor because there’s two drains[/quote]
Had to deal with everyone of those. Good god I hated them then, and now.
The 3.6 high feature engines suck. We told one of the engineers that designed the engine he was stupid for not using the cartridge setup like the camaro does. Plus you make a mess all over the front end that takes 10 minutes to clean up.
I had a duramax one of the lube kids did the last lof on. We ended up punching a hole with a prybar and two of us to finally get it off.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[quote=”MDK22″ post=167800]There are ones on the Ford 650/750 Cummins that are a pain. There are lines/starter wires so you can not pull it out the bottom. There is the frame to the side and a/c compressor in front. A/c lines run right next it. You have to remove the hp switch and have one special size filter wrench or a strap wrench. You get oil everywhere cause you have to tilt it to the side to pull it out and if you manage to pierce it from the bottom it hits the lines, frame, axle. The strap wrench is the only way if really tight and you have to weave it between the wires and lines open it up and then tighten it down and reset it after like 1/8 turn.
Hardest to remove I had one on a Mitsu fuso that someone must have crossthreaded really bad. Air chisel wouldn’t remove it had to replace the entire assembly. Had a freightliner that took me and another big tech both using filter wrenches to remove using our entire bodies off the frame. Had to scrape the o-ring or rtv off. No clue wtf that was about.
Hardest Oil drain plugs are international 13L. They heatcycle tigheter each time the engine heats up. Have to put a 4′ pry bar on a 18″ breaker bar and use my whole body lifting me at 280lbs completely off the creeper before it breaks loose. Can’t use an impact as it will strip the plug…[/quote]
Yeah, a buddy of mine has a small 96 F750 dump truck with a 6BT and the oil filter isn’t the only thing that is hard to get at. Great truck, but really tough to work on.
Yeah the 650/750 are a great truck but, there are some issues with the new ones. Mainly with wires run near the fuse box up by the fender they are not loomed fully and like to rub through. There is also recalls on seats for them from like 20011 up. That and I wouldn’t get any engine in the newer ones other then a cummins and I would highly suggest an allison but…..
The GM 2.2 was one of the more difficult ones because of where it’s located. I usually just swing my right arm over the subframe and can grab it pretty easily. You just have to have patience for it, especially if it’s hot. The most pain in the ass filters that I’ve found so far are the 3.7L Chryslers. You have no room to do anything. Drives me crazy.
Ford Taurus with Vulcan engine. If you use oil filter plaits , you have to maneuver them around the exposed starter solinoid to keep from crossing them. For this reason I unhook the battery when changing oil. Seems stupid to have the starter solinoid right where it is 100% guaranteed that hands and metal tools will need to go.
You guys already nailed most of the ones I would bitch about. Dishonorable mention goes to the GM 4.2s in the Trailblazers/Envoys. It’s not an impossible filter to pull, but you will usually take an oil bath down your arm. Then there’s any oil filter that the last lube monkey managed to tighten down to the point you need a breaker bar and a friend to spin it free.
Otherwise, this is a good place to not only hate on the oil filters, but the cars that have shielding under the engine that requires two or three different tools to unfasten. Many late model European cars and newer Ford Fusions come to mind. It’s like they design the screws to seize and/or rust right out of the factory. Then they recess the plastic pins so you can’t get your removal tools under them.
[quote=”SantanaTV” post=173133]The most pain in the ass filters that I’ve found so far are the 3.7L Chryslers. You have no room to do anything. Drives me crazy.[/quote]
For the 3.7’s, that definitely going to be a Dodge Nitro and, IIRC, the Jeep Liberty is its counterpart. The Nitro is even worse than the Liberty because the Nitro has a big fat sway bar in the way as well.
Worst I’ve done is the newer GM SUVs with the filter right under the flaming hot exhaust manifold or if you have big hands the old 2.2 chevy cavilier had the filter in the stupidest place right above the axleshaft
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.