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Hello all,
92 honda civic vx hatchback
The car has a new alternator, starter, battery in it all as of last month. Went to go to work and it would not turn over. ON position has fuel pump working. Took out main relay and soldered “dry” spots. Put it back together and I cant feel the relay closing for the starter.I have a power probe 3 that Ive been using, trying to figure out where my problem might be. I have found diagrams on the connectors for the starter switch. And it seems as if I am having an open circuit on my yellow wire when trying to turn over the car. ( I ) position is ground ( II ) position is ground, but then when trying to crank it over, I have a weak +. Im a dummy when it comes to electrical, so if anyone can help me that would be appreciated. I hope this all makes sense.
But so far i think ive narrowed it down to it be the ignition switch. All fuses are good.
-Eddie
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Update:
I put the key in the ON ( II ) position, and took the ignition wire off from the starter, and placed the power probe on the terminal ( where the ign wire was ). The Power Probe (PP) read ground, and then I powered the PP when the starter cranked and turned over the engine successfully. The car began to run.
Im going to verify again my ignition switch, and make sure that all the lines are getting power as they should.
Will update when I get more info.
So I started to trace back the wiring from the starter. ( Trying to start from scratch again.)
I traced it back to a harness just before the wiring harness disappeared into the fire wall, and powered the blck/white wire there, and the starter cranked. I was looking at the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, and I saw that the blue/white wire was connected to STS. Im guessing that means starter switch? I took a chance and powered that and the starter cranked.Now if I power directly to the relay the wire that cranks the engine, would that indicate a bad ignition switch?
I cant find ANY useful information on a wiring diagram for this main relay. Everyone just says to solder the joints and pop it back in. To me that seems only half hearted to not test it after that work had been done. From this wiring diagram Im not sure how I could jump it to see if what I had done had any effect.
Broke down and bought a new ignition switch which was $200. It did not solve my problem.
Tested the clutch safety switch, and found it was not working properly. Turns out my clutch has a missing piece that closes the circuit to my clutch switch. I repaired it, and it now works. The car starts as it should.
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