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Topic
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2008 Accord – 178k miles – well maintained.
symptoms:
when I turn HARD right (only) I hear a soft grinding noise (shi-shi-shi) varies with speed. It’s not the clackety-clacket I associate with failing CV joint. No noise detected during normal driving.What I’ve done so far:
Looked for junk or loose shields around wheels (none)
checked the brake pads and telltale (lots of pad left). Brake component all snug.
Lifted up front end… rocked wheel for bearing play. (seems ok)
One at-a-time removed both fronts tires to inspect CV boots. No boot damage observed.Appeal:
Thoughts / suggestions? I saw Eric’s video on bearing failure location.
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Replies
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Does this only happen when you hold the steering wheel against the lock? (This is what I assume when you say hard in all caps) If so, do not hold the steering wheel hard against the lock. Hit the lock softly, and back off a small bit.
When I replaced the Upper Control arms on my Truck, there was a small piece of metal that would scrape against the rim of my tire in tight turns, though I do not believe that your vehicle would have that same issue.
Koinonia, when I say hard I mean like a sharp right turn in a parking garage. I know what you mean with power steering stop. It definitely is a rotation sound. I did look for abrasions and scoring but didn’t find them. My chief suspect is bearings, cv joint.
Thank you!A shi-shi-shi sound when turning is usually a rusty brake noise, usually in the rear as well. You mentioned that you’ve been looking around the front of the car, but not that you’re sure of which wheel(s) the noise is coming from. You get that from the rear a lot when the backing plates and rotors balloon out with rust and start making contact. When you turn and apply a side load to the wheels, all the metal components (rim, rotor, hub, etc) flex slightly and will cause a rubbing of a brake rotor against something stationary that it doesn’t quite touch when going straight (usually a dust shield in front or a backing plate in the rear).
I’ve also run into that noise after installing new rear rotors that are very cheap and not fully machined exactly right. The existing backing plate will already be very rusty and ballooned out, and the new rotor just won’t be exactly the right shape. It might be quiet going straight but then makes the shi-shi-shi noise when you turn, especially sharp turns in a parking lot. That noise has to be cleared up, and I used to take it back apart and grind the rust off the backing plates where I thought it was contacting and drive again, possibly repeat. Now I just clean it up ahead of time and check for enough clearance as I’m putting it together. If it still makes the noise, I find you can go into a parking lot and clear it up doing 20 or 30 tight circles (not quite fast enough to squeal tires) in the direction that makes the noise. The parts “self-machine” appropriate clearance.
This may or may not apply to your issue, but it’s very common and some food for thought.
Last time a heard a weird sound from my car I found this site, http://www.jobquotes.com/ as I was looking for a mechanic and I got an incredible quote from a mechanic that really knew what he was doing. Problem was fixed and I left stress free!
Rob
1. Are you running stock wheels and tires or a wider wheel which protrudes further into the wheel well and closer to suspension components?
2. is your car lowered from stock height.
3. I would set the car on full lock as you described and raise the front. By spinning the wheel each side with the steering in full lock to the right you should be able to re-create and detect the noise and at least determine which wheel is causing the issue.
4. Remove the wheel and check for any evidence of the inside edge of the wheel rim or tire scraping on any other component at full lock.. If OK then rotate the hub/brake rotor assembly. You should be able to detect the source of the noise at that point provided you have the steering in the exact position when the grinding occurs when driving.
This problem is resolved! It turns out that it was the “backing plate” or “splash guard” rubbing against a rusty rotor edge… only heard during hard turn under load.
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I disassembled the brakes and removed the rotor to do a careful inspection. I noticed a 3/4 inch curved clean scratch at the rotor diameter (see image bottom). I bent out the backing plate a bit, filed off the rotor edge rust and re-assembled…. noise gone.A couple weeks ago I had carefully examined the wheel bearing play with tires lifted.. then, removed… rotating wheel and turning the steering. The front bearings did seem fine. So, I re-read all the ETCG advice here.. decided to look for rubbing with rotor removed.
I was really gearing up for a wheel bearing or CV replacement. I watched Eric’s video multiple times… was pretty sure I could find an “XD-45…” tool look-alike.
The brakes are still pretty meaty.. I had replaced them two years back. I NOW believe the backing plate was probably slightly deformed by the excessive snowfall I bounced thru up here in northern NJ this winter.
Thank you ETCG team: cam0888, Fopeano, Koinonia. Your ideas shaped my thinking for a $0.00 cost solution.
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