Desperately need Help with Stalling Chrysler 300M

[Matt Brandsema]

So I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M and It is stalling and surging when it is warm at low RPM’s. First it only happened when coming to a stop, but now it just happens when warm and just idling. If I put any kind of load on it at all when it is warm it stalls. I seriously cannot figure out what is wrong. I even paid an “expert” on “justanswer.com” to help me out because I kept coming up empty. Well, he just gave up on me so no I am SOL. I have replaced to many things. Here is a list in no particular order.

1. Replaced front O2 sensors
2. Replaced Crank Sensor
3. Replaced All ignition coils and Sparkplugs
4. I thought it may be an EGR valve stuck open, so I removed it and used compressed air in the valve. The valve was closed. I then put it back on and ran the engine with it unplugged. It made no difference.
5. I then thought perhaps an accessory is binding up and causing a load on the engine. I removed the belts and spun all pulleys by hand, nothing was binding up or stiff.
6. Replaced IAC valve
7. Replaced air filter
8. Adjusted idle speed so more air enters the engine. For awhile I thought it was an air issue because it does not happen when the cars RPM’s are higher and it seemed to get slightly better when I replaced the air filter. But no go
9. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor when it was cold and it BEHAVED as if it was warm by stalling and surging up and down. I know that when you unplug the coolant temp it defaults to a “warm” coolant condition. I found this very interesting. I then replaced the coolant temp sensor, but it didn’t fix the problem.
10. I checked for vacuum leaks, but there are none, and even if there were the car has a MAP sensor on the intake itself so it is usually pretty robust against vacuum leaks.
11. Replaced the MAP sensor.
12. Turned over the engine by hand to determine if the starer motor was hanging up and putting an extra load on the engine. Everything turned fine.
13. Cleaned out throttle body and IAC port with cleaner.
14. I checked the fuel pressure while the car is stalling and it does not drop at all. It is within the spec in the service manual so the issue isn’t the fuel pump.
15. Replaced fuel injectors.

So there it is. The long laundry list of things I have done to this car with no success. I still haven’t replaced the cam shaft position sensor, perhaps it is worth a try. I do not have a scope to look at the waveforms to determine if this is the cause so I would just be guessing.

Topic

[ryley]

ok. You did check the pressure it looks good, How about air? do you know without a doubt the feed is clear? I would try a compression test, make sure the engine is mechanically healthy.

Maybe a NOID light might help, no ECU will stop getting info from the motor. you could pull the injectors out, but leave them in the rail put them on top of rags and turn the key to just before start. if any of the new injectors are leaking, it should show up.

I am defiantly not the most experienced guy here. I have run out of ideas, I wish I could have been more helpful. Best of luck.

[Author]

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